Did i get my box tuning right?

[honkyg 10+ year member]

looks fairly good to me, all things considered.

the first 'real' box i ever designed when i first got back into c/a about 10 yrs ago i accomplished using the r/e calculator,.. but i designed only one side and just mirrored it to the other with ports combined in center. worked out very well for not having the resources.

got mid 140's @ 30hz out of two mkIV brahma 12's on 1200w (5.5cuft gross tuned to 27hz),.. in a '98 mustang not geared for spl,.. beginners luck, if i ever saw it.

everything after that has always been a subjective process with the addition of t/s-p and box building software,.. and a shitton of reading/research.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Id do 4.5 with 80 in^2 of port area tuned to 35 the larger port will give it plenty lowend output and the smaller box stops the port for unloading so fast. tuning below 35 on the 9500 unless its the ESP is a no no

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

looks fairly good to me, all things considered.
the first 'real' box i ever designed when i first got back into c/a about 10 yrs ago i accomplished using the r/e calculator,.. but i designed only one side and just mirrored it to the other with ports combined in center. worked out very well for not having the resources.

got mid 140's @ 30hz out of two mkIV brahma 12's on 1200w (5.5cuft gross tuned to 27hz),.. in a '98 mustang not geared for spl,.. beginners luck, if i ever saw it.

everything after that has always been a subjective process with the addition of t/s-p and box building software,.. and a shitton of reading/research.

peaky and in the ideal box for the res frequency of the car.

t/s parameters are for baseline measurements between designs. IE designing a motor/driver to avoid parameter shifts or to shift ideally under given conditions. if you are interested ill give you a cool *** trick to get "operating" parameters or "hot" parameters and you can get VERY close with a DATS analyzer.

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

so back on topic?

right!!!!!!!

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

right!!!!!!!

sorry i'm am the topic destroyer. just trying to give you some info..

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

I design boxes but buy them from ebay.... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/suicide.gif.a649d21efc0d1fd4890a6428166586c1.gif

man yall keep ******* with my pops! at least he has a reason. he is old.. lol

 

[basketball00011 10+ year member]

Id do 4.5 with 80 in^2 of port area tuned to 35 the larger port will give it plenty lowend output and the smaller box stops the port for unloading so fast. tuning below 35 on the 9500 unless its the ESP is a no no

Okay i'll try that. I think i have 9512g's. I bought them from my buddy who barely used them. He got them in 2010 and stopped using them in 2011 lol. But i know i definitely don't have ESP.

So i should do 5.1 before displacement to get me to 4.5. I am doing double baffle. I was actually going to to do double layered 3/4" mdf all around the box making it 1.5" thick. Or is that overkill?

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

OP i think 5 cubes is abit large but they will do fine. just sound like ***.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

[quote name='basketball00011']Okay i'll try that. I think i have 9512g's. I bought them from my buddy who barely used them. He got them in 2010 and stopped using them in 2011 lol. But i know i definitely don't have ESP.

So i should do 5.1 before displacement to get me to 4.5. I am doing double baffle. I was actually going to to do double layered 3/4" mdf all around the box making it 1.5" thick. Or is that overkill?[/QUOTE]
it will sound abit better up top and still get low. what car you have and where are they going? i usually recommend you keep the port and sub of the same plain but having htem 90degrees out of phase works better in alot of situations. its a phase thing.
if you have a bigger car go smaller. if you have a smaller car go bigger.. lol the small car/area puts and acoustic air load on hte driver killing efficiency while the larger cabin does the opposite but in higher powered installs shrinking the box and using more port area give you less issues..
@Jeffdachef that's why shrinking your port helped. no loading of the drivers and a large cabin gotta sink the box to have come compliance to help control the cones above FB..

 

[basketball00011 10+ year member]

[quote name='Papermaker85']it will sound abit better up top and still get low. what car you have and where are they going? i usually recommend you keep the port and sub of the same plain but having htem 90degrees out of phase works better in alot of situations. its a phase thing.
if you have a bigger car go smaller. if you have a smaller car go bigger.. lol the small car/area puts and acoustic air load on hte driver killing efficiency while the larger cabin does the opposite but in higher powered installs shrinking the box and using more port area give you less issues..
@Jeffdachef that's why shrinking your port helped. no loading of the drivers and a large cabin gotta sink the box to have come compliance to help control the cones above FB..[/QUOTE]

Okay, i have an 06 yukon. I was going to do either sub up/port up or sub forward/port forward. I can definitely do smaller. I love me some low bass but at the same time i listen to alot of new rock (nothing more, seether, bring me the horizon) but i will be listening to some good ole jeezy occasionally.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Okay, i have an 06 yukon. I was going to do either sub up/port up or sub forward/port forward. I can definitely do smaller. I love me some low bass but at the same time i listen to alot of new rock (nothing more, seether, bring me the horizon) but i will be listening to some good ole jeezy occasionally.

do this. make a "face" that you can test different configurations to suit your taste. a'lot of setups meter nicely but aren't loud to the ear. Id suggest if you want to meter subs on passengers side firing up port on drivers side firing back. for something that provides a flatter response. do the subs middle of the box firing up one on each side of the port port back at hte bottom of the enclosure firing back

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

sorry i'm am the topic destroyer. just trying to give you some info..

no we talking about tahoe

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

no we talking about tahoe

stu already....your just like the Energizer battery bunny that just keeps going and going and going...

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

stu already....your just like the Energizer battery bunny that just keeps going and going and going...

i ain't the 1 talking junk to u every time u make a post..

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

i ain't the 1 talking junk to u every time u make a post..

Are you done???