Decided to build a system.

  • 5
    Participant count
  • Participants list

LoudSound

Senior VIP Member
179
5
Toronto
Small background story: had my car for 2 years, like most people that start out in car audio, I replaced speakers and headunit with something inexpensive, added a sub. But I soon realized my system was trash and decided it was time to make my first serious system. December 2016, I started gathering equipment. Got the PG amps on this forum from a great guy Gary Hoffmann.(garychoffmann)

so, from top to bottom:

Pioneer 80prs

2x rockford fosgate PPT-4 bullet tweeters powered by my old Autotek 1200.2 amp(should be good for 2 tweeters)

4x faital pro 8fe200 for front doors powered by PG Xenon 100.4

my old kenwood 400rms sub with a PG xenon 400.1 monoblock. Now, I used to run this sub off the autotek amp, so I can't wait to hear it with the PG.

qAHRZxE.jpg


That's all for now.

next post, ill show my wiring which I am yet to do.

 
UPDATE TIME:

My OFC sky high 1/0awg and 4awg power wires came in today.

tbXTphi.jpg


Only thing holding me up is the heatshrink, cable sleeving and lugs coming from China, because I'm not trying to spend $50 on 10 lugs!! Once those arrive I can start making my "big 4" cables, putting cables in sleeving and laying them in the car.

I am yet to get started on the door cards, I need to wait for warmer weather to work with polyester resin.

I also got these brass heavy duty truck battery terminals on ebay. Lots of room for connections!

lDnly1a.jpg


 
UPDATE TIME!! Winter's been killing me, no garage *****. But spring is coming, the beiches are gonna be horny so I don't have time to waste, my system gotta be on point ASAP. I made and installed the big 3 today.. Made my own cable lugs from a copper tube. Just as good as the store bought ones. Crimped using a $30 hydraulic crimper from ebay. The 1/2" copper tube BARELY fit the 70mm2 die in the crimper.

Voltage now sitting at 14.3-14.2 with the car running and lights on. I think adding another wire from the - to the engine itself will give me 14.4. not that it really matters because I need an AGM battery anyway and if I want good bass I Need 2 as well as an alternator most likely. Will upgrade EVERYTHING as time goes on.

So far I'm about 2k into the build. I'm thinking it's gonna be around 2k more for proper bass.

0


0


0


0


0


yeah I just used blue electric tape because heatshrink is ovverated, it's technically the same thing. The best thing to use would be cloth electrical tape but whatever.

Next I gotta lay out the speaker cables and the signal cables.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
https://www.droppinhzcaraudio.com/content/toolmaker-sae-top-post-6-spot-lug-style-battery-terminalsthey are aluminum but when you want to upgrade this is the next best thing.

those brass terminals **** when it comes to conductivity..

https://www.bluesea.com/resources/108/Electrical_Conductivity_of_Materials
Will see. Gonna have to see how they perform. afaik a lot of distro blocks are made of brass too. if my voltage on the amps isn't much lower than the battery is it safe to assume brass is doing it's job well?

They told me it was ok to use.

 
Will see. Gonna have to see how they perform. afaik a lot of distro blocks are made of brass too. if my voltage on the amps isn't much lower than the battery is it safe to assume brass is doing it's job well?
They told me it was ok to use.
Resistance means losses and increased current draw for a given draw. On the surface its not drawing alot and seems fine but thats because the high restanse is cause less current flow and straing the system. Im sure its ok but the aluminum is substanually better.

 
Resistance means losses and increased current draw for a given draw. On the surface its not drawing alot and seems fine but thats because the high restanse is cause less current flow and straing the system. Im sure its ok but the aluminum is substanually better.
I'm not sure I follow you.

So you're saying my alternator will suffer or it just won't be able to give all it's got? If my voltage on the amp reads 14v+ is it still gonna be limited by the brass terminals and result in not being able to play music as loud?

I thought as long as my voltage doesn't dip too much I'm good?

 
Voltage is half the story.

If you have so much resistance your current flow after the resistor is limited so you dont get voltage fluctuations. When the current compsumpion exceeds what the terminal can handle then it starts to try and pull more current tgen voltage drops more. This is kinda easy to fine because where the resistance/r is will get much hotter than the rest of the circuit.

So in short its may be fine up to 100 amps tgen you see power loss..

 
I see, thanks for the heads up.

Well brass is only 28% conductivity of copper so yeah it's pretty poor but up to 100a is good I just got these as starter terminals cuz they were cheap.

I'll be upgrading them for sure. I Just needed something with lots of connection room; my stock terminals just had a bolt to connect stuff to.

Interested to see how my lead acid(not agm) battery does with these 3 amps: 100x4, 400x1, and like 50x2 for tweeters. It's probably gonna be unusable at high volumes, I'll have to turn off the sub if I wanna blast the speakers. Which is ok) Because you can't hear the sub from 500 feet anyway

Maybe I'll make my own terminals from a copper block =)

 
Pics incoming soon, sorry camera broke.

-Oversized 0 gauge power cable is in, wrapped in "snake skin" of course. The rca's are laid out, as are the speaker cables.

-Picked up some decent VIBRO DAMPING material today.

The box with 20 sheets is pretty darn heavy. I'm pretty stoked to install it just gotta wait till my roller arrives and I can go in on the doors. But not before installing the universal power window kit. Had no choice there.. The window roller was in the way of the bullet tweeter mounting spot.

Yeah my car would be considered a shitbox by many, but I don't care, and I will dump money into vibrodamping it because I take care of it chyt and it's not really rusted and I plan to keep it that way.

So yeah, you could say "My install is coming along nicely"

 
knu kolossus sound deadener was applied fully to the outer panel, and partially to the inner, some was applied to the door trim.

Doors made to fit drivers and are painted with bedliner coating. To install the drivers, I pressed those nuts with "teeth" into the speaker rings because if you just use screws eventually the mdf will wear out and speakers will start falling out or worse you might break the rings.. ideally the rings should be lasercut from plexiglass.. but I used 3/4 MDF

And before anyone says anything, I know the doors look like shyt because I failed at wrapping the trim, I'm gonna redo it!

Words can't describe it, but this thing sounds DEADLY... it's loud as hell and very clean as expected with this awesome amp/hu/drivers combo

e60f0eb476ccfd0c7fa7cc523d554670.jpg
f25a52a90c3574c40e948f042e99576a.jpg
f68c090fa5da281d8cfc627b71f962c8.jpg
e14470f42cd001639eecd4a9acce1c8a.jpg


 
Last edited by a moderator:
HPF set at 200hz, max volume, this thing gets LOUD. Of course that's for when you wanna put on a show.. inside you set HPF to 80-100 and turn up until stuff starts rattling(the metal doesn't rattle but I believe the wiring does, you could wrap it too so it won't rattle...) that's at LEAST volume 40 though.. some tracks it won't rattle at all..Faital pro 8fe200 got hella midbass, sick drivers.

I think I'll be fine with the door treatment for now. The protection against rattles is more than adequate.

I'm gonna do a proper video soon to show you guys.

I'm really happy that I bought the PG xenon 100.4 amp on this forum from garychoffmann and not some ppi because this thing legit sounds awesome.

Now comes the hard part - tuning

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...

Similar threads

I think you're gonna have to get good with fiberglass or something, or find someone with a 3d laser scanner that can 3d print or mold you some...
7
601
I got to message a DD woofer builder a decent bit my last stent of box designing; they would send me designs to do for or with individual...
5
547
Currently Audison amps 500.1 and 4.300 with kappa 90csx 6x9 component set. Pair of morel 6.5 rear and a single 10” alpine type R.
7
605
Crutchfield can tell you what speaker will fit your car. for subs, Image Dynamics and Adire are still around. my last sub i bought was from...
3
651
Agreed and Brand X doesn't exactly have the greatest rep to begin with in the car audio community for a decent product.
4
667

About this thread

LoudSound

Senior VIP Member
Thread starter
LoudSound
Joined
Location
Toronto
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
28
Views
3,928
Last reply date
Last reply from
LoudSound
Screenshot 2024-03-07 184329.png

Doxquzme

    Mar 27, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
IMG_3075.jpeg

Daniel Lee

    Mar 27, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

Latest topics

Top