Decent advise on a system setup

[naughtyca 10+ year member]

You add the rms if sub is 600 watts total rms is 1200 watts at 1 ohm the condusing part is the subs recommended can handle more than specified rms like the c2 will handle around 800 watts per sub and the xfl will handle 1 k per sub, your amp most likely is not putting out 2k at 1 ohm so these subs are close enough and should matxh w your amp

 

[i2ain2thunder 10+ year member]

For understanding power output i'll try to provide you with more insight

amps (ampere) - consider amps to be the flow of electricity like the flow of water in a pipe.

volts - consider voltage to be the water pressure of the pipe, how much force it has.

watts - consider watts to be the rate of transfer of the pipe to the sink it feeds.

Ohms (impedance/resistance) - consider impedance to be like blockage in the pipe.

So, in essence your amplifier works off these principles. The amplifier needs the rest of the electrical system to be able to supply it with plenty of power. So like in our water pipe example the amplifier is like the faucet and your subs are like the sink. If you have a good water supply, the faucet with shoot out plenty of water no problem and the sink can fill easily. Now interupt one of these elements....say for instance your wire carries a lot of resistance, or is too small, thats the same as someone crimping the water pipe, now the faucet is strugling to get water, and the sink doesn't fill very well, it may be functional, but everything is starved. Or take for example your amps, say the alternator on your car is rated at 65amps, but your subwoofer amplifier uses around 300amps. Now you have water flowing through your faucet, but it is about 1/2 the volume. You still have trouble filling your sink. Or lets say for instance your voltage starts to drop when you play music. Now the water if flowing through your faucet, but it's not spraying as fast as your sink needs it to.

See all of these elements are essential to the function of an amplifier. This must be understood to understand how to properly install and provide correct electrical for an amplifier. This is important because if your amplifier is suffering from poor electrical from your vehicle it will have problems, and cause problems, potentially even to cause damage to the amplifier or subwoofers. To avoid this damage we take time to understand what an amplifier needs as far as electrical, does it need 4gauge wire, 8gauge, or 0gauge. Does the amplifier require more amperage, is there a need to upgrade the alternator. Is the voltage dropping when playing music, does the system need a big secondary battery?

Look at these things, ask advice and shop around. Look at how much power you want/can afford/can do with current electrical of vehicle. Once you decide how much your vehicle can handle or how much u can spend, then look at finding products that fit your needs.

 

[naughtyca 10+ year member]

Well this Scion will smoke check your setup. What do you drive?I can lay out a entry level setup, no such thing as budget. I'll take 500 good watts over the crap you want to push

The thing u dont understand is he already has this amp and i drive way better car than your scion

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

The thing u dont understand is he already has this amp and i drive way better car than your scion

You want to compare resale value? You do know Scion is a branch of Toyota AND Lexus?

 

[Chief612]

You add the rms if sub is 600 watts total rms is 1200 watts at 1 ohm the condusing part is the subs recommended can handle more than specified rms like the c2 will handle around 800 watts per sub and the xfl will handle 1 k per sub, your amp most likely is not putting out 2k at 1 ohm so these subs are close enough and should matxh w your amp

ok sorry still learning but lets take my current subs for example, the 2 12" subs, 2600 watts MAX and 1000 RMS

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

The thing u dont understand is he already has this amp and i drive way better car than your scion

He could sell that amp for $100 and get a Alpine MRP-500 that will make better power for nothing out of his pocket

 

[naughtyca 10+ year member]

You want to compare resale value? You do know Scion is a branch of Toyota AND Lexus?

Keep thinking that you drive a lexus

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Keep thinking that you drive a lexus

The wife does. Its pretty nice

 

[naughtyca 10+ year member]

The wife does. Its pretty nice

and you accepted to drive the scion, i guess we know who wears the pants in the house

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

OP listen. IF you dont mind selling the amp try to get $120 out of it. If you can grab a Alpine MRP-M500 off amazon and Alpine Type S sub from whatever size you can fit. Hit up one of the box builders on here for a quote. If you can build your own get a cut sheet and spend about $40 in materials.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

and you accepted to drive the scion, i guess we know who wears the pants in the house

Nope. I spoil my wife and she dont drive 60 miles a day on the king of pots highway. She carries my daughter so she gets the nice ride

 

[naughtyca 10+ year member]

ok sorry still learning but lets take my current subs for example, the 2 12" subs, 2600 watts MAX and 1000 RMS

your sub is single voice coil unfortunately that sub will not handle the rms and the wattage it specified. i know its confusing.

the reason i was suggesting to replace your sub is you can underpower the sub and it will be alright, later on if you want to change your amp you have a headroom since you already have some decent subs. if your happy with the setup of your amp and the new subs you might just stop there but if you want more bass then next upgrade is your amp or your electrical (extra battery, HO alt etc)

 

[Chief612]

your sub is single voice coil unfortunately that sub will not handle the rms and the wattage it specified. i know its confusing.
the reason i was suggesting to replace your sub is you can underpower the sub and it will be alright, later on if you want to change your amp you have a headroom since you already have some decent subs. if your happy with the setup of your amp and the new subs you might just stop there but if you want more bass then next upgrade is your amp or your electrical (extra battery, HO alt etc)

there DVC

 

[i2ain2thunder 10+ year member]

Since now we understand impedance/resistance is measured in ohms. and watts are the rate of transfer of power, and rms stands for the continuous power something is rated at. Now you should be able to understand shoping for audio equipment a little better.

Amps are rated like this Amp 1: 1000 watt amplifier 1000wrmsx1@1ohm, 500wrmsx1@2ohms, and 250wrmsx1@4ohms.

first the rating itself

100wrms, means it is rated to do 100watts continuously.

x1 means it is doing that much power on 1 channel.

@1ohm means it is doing that much power on 1 channel with 1ohm resistance. As resistance lessens, power increases, however sound quality also decreases though not by a noticeable amount.

We'll go over another example amplifier.

2000watt max amplifier 1000wrms x1 (bridged) @ 1ohm, 500wrms x2 @ 1ohm, 250wrms x2 @ 2ohm

Notice there is an X2, this means this amplifier has 2 channels, and the (bridged) means you can bridge the 2 channels together and use just 1 channel. If you bridge the channels you are combining the power, showing why the bridged rating is more.

Amplifiers come in channels, mono or 1channel, 2channel, 4channel, 6channel and so on. The number of channels determines how many speakers you can hook up to the amp on different channels, IE. left channels right channel

 

[naughtyca 10+ year member]

sorry for some reason i thought you have the single 4 ohms, which model power acoustik do you have the mofo?