DC Audio Level 6 18" single enclosure box, design help

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Done I just tested the new box, it sounds better, 5.5 cube feet, tune at 35hz, my I get more lows and sounds cleaner, Much better, but same power output, my 2 Brutus brx2400.1d, doesn't have the juice to power this monster, I don't think I'm getting 4800 watts out of my amps, they don't get warm, I play music for 1 hour they were cold, like they aren't even working, my volts drops from 14.7.to 14.1at peak, when I had the 2 amps separate, 1was driving 2cvx 15"1000 watts each at 1 ohm load, the other amp was driving a power acoustik mofo 15" 1700 watts at 2 ohm load, and they were drawing more energy, my volts were dropping to 12.7,something is not right, I don't know how to clamp the amps, but I think they are outputting like 2500 watts they supposed the be outputting 4800 watts,

Has anybody linked 2 Brutus brx2400.1d, so I can get some advice,

Your profile says Miami.... Yeah, I expect Chicago is cold. I've built boxes on snowy days too.. cut pieces outside and assemble inside. Not the best, but when you get that itch to build it can't be helped.

I'd have really liked to see double wall on the baffle side (flush mount for preference), and some bracing in there. Personally I'd do double layer all around and triple on the top on a 5 cube box.

Is that the same orientation of sub/port in the vehicle? Does it sit different from the last box in relation to hard surfaces?

If it sounds good it is good. Don't worry so much if you aren't pushing your amps to their limits. If you don't even own an SPL meter you likely won't notice the difference of trying to over-work them to "get your money's worth" power out of them.

If you're have a DMM you can take some voltage and current measurements (AT LOW POWER). Most DMM's will only handle current up to 10A or so before opening fuses, so you'll get a 5V tone at a particular frequency then measure current without changing any settings. Do the same at frequencies 20-80hz at 3-5hz increments and you'll have a good idea of the impedance curve. From there you can measure max voltage and use Ohm's law to see what's happening where. This will be time consuming and I wouldn't want to do it in the winter up north.

 

[sergioiron]

Your profile says Miami.... Yeah, I expect Chicago is cold. I've built boxes on snowy days too.. cut pieces outside and assemble inside. Not the best, but when you get that itch to build it can't be helped.
I'd have really liked to see double wall on the baffle side (flush mount for preference), and some bracing in there. Personally I'd do double layer all around and triple on the top on a 5 cube box.

Is that the same orientation of sub/port in the vehicle? Does it sit different from the last box in relation to hard surfaces?

If it sounds good it is good. Don't worry so much if you aren't pushing your amps to their limits. If you don't even own an SPL meter you likely won't notice the difference of trying to over-work them to "get your money's worth" power out of them.

If you're have a DMM you can take some voltage and current measurements (AT LOW POWER). Most DMM's will only handle current up to 10A or so before opening fuses, so you'll get a 5V tone at a particular frequency then measure current without changing any settings. Do the same at frequencies 20-80hz at 3-5hz increments and you'll have a good idea of the impedance curve. From there you can measure max voltage and use Ohm's law to see what's happening where. This will be time consuming and I wouldn't want to do it in the winter up north.

I lied, I always want to live in Miami, I didn't put double layer cuz I was testing it since I like the way it sounds I'm gonna add an extra layer all around on the sides only have like 1/2 inch clearance per side,

Yes same orientation sub, port except that the port is wider than the other one, this port is 5.1/2 wide vs the old one was 4",

It seats different now I can have the back seats all the way back to where they lock, have the port has same clearance to the hatch, the old box had 2 different highs, the front was 22" high X 18" on the back, same wide 32"

my back seats didn't lock they were like 4" away from the latch to lock them, they were resting on the box, that way I had the clearance for the port to the hatch like 10 " clearance, and the new box was more like testing i still got to finish it, I'm very happy with the new box,

All I wanted was my 2 amps to give me full power, but 1 amp has the same power as the 2 amps linked together so watts the point of linking, and having the 2 amps when I can only have 1 amp and get the same power output, this linking stuff drove me crazy,

When I bought my lvl 6 i already had the 2 amps, that's why I got the 1 ohm lvl 6 sub so I can wire to 2 ohms and link my 2 Brutus brx2400.1d to drive this monster, but linking the 2 amps is the same as having 1,

I have a spl meter but it only measures up to 130, I reach that in a quarter of volume, I just got an used one from eBay that is supposed to measure over 200 dB on c weigh, but didn't have a manual or instructions, doesn't have any cables is just the unit, I don't know how to connect the wires doesn't even have wires just terminals to connect wires,

I just bought my crecendo BC5500D they had it on sale black Friday sale problem solve, can't wait to have it driving this monster,,,,,

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

with adequate electricals, you can wire it to .5 ohm nominal and should see rise to 1-2 ohms and get enough power to that sub.

 

[sergioiron]

with adequate electricals, you can wire it to .5 ohm nominal and should see rise to 1-2 ohms and get enough power to that sub.

I already have a high output alternator big 3,2 XS Power d1400, I'll get some more if I need to, just need to see some money, little, by little, step by step, and I should get louder,

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

with adequate electricals, you can wire it to .5 ohm nominal and should see rise to 1-2 ohms and get enough power to that sub.

So good electrical system would make those amps safe to run at half ohm?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

So good electrical system would make those amps safe to run at half ohm?

Would reduce the chances of clipping from voltage drops. I've seen many drop bc2ks to .5 ohms nominally and they work fine after rise.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Would reduce the chances of clipping from voltage drops. I've seen many drop bc2ks to .5 ohms nominally and they work fine after rise.

Suit yourself. I wouldn't recommend .5 ohm to anyone even with an amp that's "designed" to do it. It's sketchy all around and many manufacturers will balk at a warranty claim from abuse.

 

[shizzzon 10+ year member]

Those amplifiers are not doing 4800w combined.

It's physically impossible.

Amplifier ratings are done resistively and you cannot get resistive power ratings on speakers wired to the loads they are rated at.

You are getting probably about 1,500w.

Wiring a 5500 to 0.5ohm load will be a night and day comparison but also wiring down that low will drop efficiency fast causing a loss of headroom resulting in the amplifier wanting to clip sooner so pay attention to what you do there if you do that.

 

[sergioiron]

Suit yourself. I wouldn't recommend .5 ohm to anyone even with an amp that's "designed" to do it. It's sketchy all around and many manufacturers will balk at a warranty claim from abuse.

0.5 load it's all good on the Brutus brx2400.1d, it's not supposed to have the low load, but I have it at 0.5 load for a week, and I had it running at 0.5 for 4 months before, without any problems, I'm getting my crecendo bc5500 next Tuesday, is supposed to handle 0.5 ohms load without any problems, I'll give you guys an update once I have it running, just so you guys know I have my Brutus brx2400.1d for 3 years now never even went into protection mode even with 0.5 ohm load,

 

[shizzzon 10+ year member]

Congratulations?

Do you even know why he suggests not to run that low?

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Congratulations?
Do you even know why he suggests not to run that low?

Doubt it, and I don't have time to try to explain to someone who already has his mind made up that it's OK.

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

But come on, wiring low makes you cool.

Seriously, it's become damn near the status quo.