Custom system goes haywire in winter.

rickrhoda

CarAudio.com Newbie
So, 2 custom shops cannot figure out how to fix my problem.

In winter, my system goes haywire, ranging from static on one side to the sub amp not powering on, to subs constantly fluttering with no audio signal. These events occur until the car is shut off and amps power down. It usually takes 3 starts before the system powers up properly. It's much worse in the winter. Other than the winter, it may have once in every 50 starts. I have been able to deduce that if I start the system without starting the engine, the system will play fine. However, when I start the car, the system goes haywire.

I have an Audio Control DQ61 summing my factory signal and then the signal is sent to JL Audio XD Amps. The ground has been cleaned up really well and doesn't seem to be the problem. I'm not sure if there is some faulty wiring when the system was first installed. Or, is the battery causing the problem? Or, should I use a different summing unit, such as the JL Audio Fix 86?

The custom shops tried remote wire and no remote wire. I have attached a video with one of the problems. Your help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Keep in mind that everything shrinks during cold weather. You could have some connections that aren't fully touching because of the shrinking effect that cold has on material such as metal. Does it do it at all after the car is warm?
 
Hard to tell. Sounds like a ground problem, not condensation or other usual cold weather issues. Do you have a big 3? Maybe grounding directly to the battery would help. See if other people have this issue on a cooper forum.
 
Are you saying it happens to both your front end amp and your sub amp?
If so then I would look for a problem with the signal.
Are your RCA's pinched or crimped somewhere.
Its a convertible so there is a higher chance of wires getting disrupted
Try running another set to test it. You don't have to pull the car apart just run them out and showing for a day or two to test it.
If that's not the problem then I would look at the Audio control Unit.
Given that its fairly expensive unit then I don't suggest just scrapping it for a just as expensive JL unit.
Try a cheap LOC and see if that fixes it.
If it does then swap out the unit for a different one, if not then your only out the $40-50 it cost you for the LOC rather than the $500 for the JL that might not be necessary.
It won't be as loud as the audio control is but it would only be for a couple days.
 
Keep in mind that everything shrinks during cold weather. You could have some connections that aren't fully touching because of the shrinking effect that cold has on material such as metal. Does it do it at all after the car is warm?
Thanks Buck. After the car is warm, it does not happen. But remember, if I play the system without starting the car, it does not happen. It's not until I start the car, when it's cold, that it happens. Usually, after 3 starts it plays fine.
 
Batteries do get cold sitting in cold weather also and take time to charge back up to the norm while the cells warm up. The cells get cold and loose voltage as well while sitting and charging when vehicle is on and most of the time the starter takes a little time to create that friction needed from the cold and possibly a coat of thin frozen layer from moisture to melt. Thats why most people in the colder climates generally place a trickle charger on theyre batteries, to keep them charged up. It may be possible that your alternator may need to be tested. Just my experiences living up in the DC area and Boston areas and northern States with Systems
 
Thanks Buck. After the car is warm, it does not happen. But remember, if I play the system without starting the car, it does not happen. It's not until I start the car, when it's cold, that it happens. Usually, after 3 starts it plays fine.
Try connecting an 3.5mm to rca patch cable from your phone to the amps. If issue persists, amps will be the culprit. If issue goes away, I would suspect the DQ61. On another post, someone said that some oem radios need to "see" the correct resistance to work properly. That may apply here.
 
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