No idea if the amp would work with the sub, the amp says it’s 4ohms stable (which means it can’t be used with anything other than 4 ohms) but it also says it can be used with 2-8 ohms. So,... I’d look at a different amp for that reason alone. Also, you want an amp that can put out the RMS wattage of whatever you’re running off of it. It’d work with that sub but wouldn’t sound great.
If don’t have aftermarket amps for the rest of the speakers you don’t need more than a 150w sub. I’d look at powered subwoofers if I were you (they are enclosures with a subwoofer and built in amp). You can get a decent one for $250ish up.
Also, class A/B amps use a LOT of power (they have great sound quality and, for mid bass up, are worth it IF your alternator can handle it. But aren’t worth it for subwoofers). If you don’t get a powered subwoofer then look at class D amps only. They are more efficient, most car amps are class D for that reason.
One last thing, you need to figure out how much power your alternator has to spare (don’t worry about this if the sub is the only thing you’re adding, unless you go with something with a LOT of wattage).Even with the capacitor you don’t want to be adding more than half the alternators output. I don’t off hand know the formula for figuring out amperage based upon wattage but do some research if you’re adding more than a 500w class D amp. Car Audio Fabrication is a great YouTube channel for everything car audio.
Again, if you don’t have aftermarket amps for the rest of the system look into powered subs that are less than 200w.
crutchfield.com is a great place to start looking for them, even if it is just to get an idea of what you want.
