Cone out or in? Kicker Solo B question.

[sonix]

First here's my current amplifier and sub setup.

2 Kicker L7 10" Dual 4Ohm Solo B's in sealed Kicker enclosure, wired to show 1Ohm to a Kicker KX1200.1.

1 Kicker L5 15" Dual 2Ohm Solo B in Kicker sealed enclosure, wired to show 4Ohm to a Sony Xplod 1600w XM-D1000P5.

My question is whether I can run one of the 10" subs with the chassis inside the box (I run both in this way atm) and one with the chassis outside the box. (Cone pointing into the box.)

On the Kicker.com site, there are photo's of an install running 3 subs with the chassis out and 3 with the chassis in the enclosure.

It's a shame to keep the chassis hidden away all the time and would be nice to see the cone of one and the chassis of the other. I'll keep the L5 15" with the chassis inside the box.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Sonix.

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[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Yes, you can run one sub normal and one inverted (frame/motor exposed). But this means you must reverse the polarity of one of the subs (reverse the + and -) due to the fact they will be mounted 180 degrees out of phase with each other.

 

[tommyk90 5,000+ posts]

So let me get this straight, you have two different size and model subs running off two completely different amps?

 

[cjjackson85 5,000+ posts]

Run both inverted, adds 3dbs...

 

[sonix]

So let me get this straight, you have two different size and model subs running off two completely different amps?

Yep to clarify. The 2 L7's I bought new with the KX1200.1 when they first came out and run them at 1Ohm to the Kicker.

I just bought the L5 2nd hand with the Xplod amp last week but am yet to install it into the car.

Thanks for the feedback, I'll run one in and one out I think.

I was worried about the Solo b's inability to run in an 'infinite baffle' situation and if this is classed as that.

Sonix.

 

[T9X 10+ year member]

I just bought the L5 2nd hand with the Xplod amp last week but am yet to install it into the car.

Do yourself a favor and keep it that way.

 

[DoubleR 10+ year member]

Yeah dont install it you will have some major cancellation issues.

 

[sonix]

Thanks, but is that don't install the sub or the amp, or both?

Cheers,

Sonix.

 

[JAZN 5,000+ posts]

dont install subs of different sizes/models playing the same frequencies.

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

Read this: http://forums.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?t=101646&highlight=size+subs

 

[jellyfish420 10+ year member]

Its also a waste because sub-bass is such a small fraction of the total frequency band we listen to, its pretty silly to think we need multiple drivers to cover it. We have mids that play from 100hz to 5khz, or tweeters that play from 5khz up to 20khz (for example), yet we need multiple drivers to break up the frequency band between 20hz and 100hz? Like squeak said, completely unnecessary.

very well put!

 

[sonix]

Many thanks indeed for the great help and advice.

I checked out the link and understand cancelation.

What I am concerned about is that I now have a pointless 15" solo B and a 1600W amp that I can't use.

For a multi sub size set up it is reccomended that you divide the lower octaves for each sub.like this for example-

Mid woofer- 100 to 200hz, 6.5' to 8' driver in a stereo pair

Woofer - 60 to 100hz, 8' to 10' driver mono

Subwoofer- 10 to 60hz, 12' to 18' driver mono

From reading the posts in the thread link you posted Squeak, it seems the above is not worthwhile in money or time spent. However, I find it annoying that in trying to gain 3dB I have to double my equipment. Having now done this I'm very relucant not to put it in my car.

So I would really like to try and use the 15" in the 10-60Hz range and the 2 10"s in the 60-100Hz range. I have a Kenwood KGC 9044 graphic EQ and crossover which I can set so the subs get the right frequency bands. My current setup runs 25-150Hz into the 2 10"s with both cones out, chassis in.

I appreciate that many people will try to convince me this is not worth doing, but please help if you can. I don't want to sell the 15". I have the patience and ability to set this up correctly and competently.

I can even run the 2 10"s with the cones out, as they are now, rather than one in & one out. Perhaps this will reduce the possibility of sound wave cancelations between the 3 subs?

As has been mentioned, there are plenty of demo cars which run various sizes of subs & speakers, (obviously showing off the whole range of products the company sells.) so it's certainly possible.

The subs will be configured opposite each other, with the 2 10"s in their box facing the rear of the car, with the 15" sunk into the spare wheel well and facing the front of the car. So a V configuration. ( 15" \ / 10" )

Again many thanks for your help, any more feedback will be greatly appreciated.

Sonix.

 

[jellyfish420 10+ year member]

Many thanks indeed for the great help and advice.
From reading the posts in the thread link you posted Squeak, it seems the above is not worthwhile in money or time spent. However, I find it annoying that in trying to gain 3dB I have to double my equipment. Having now done this I'm very relucant not to put it in my car.

The subs will be configured opposite each other, with the 2 10"s in their box facing the rear of the car, with the 15" sunk into the spare wheel well and facing the front of the car. So a V configuration. ( 15" \ / 10" )

you don't have to double the equiptment to gain 3 db...you can just make the equiptment you have more efficient. its ALL in the install

if i was gonna try it i like your idea. i'd have the 15 in the tire well, cone out. and the 10's in a V, magnet out.except i'd face them all in the same direction.

remember that when setting the eq for these you don't wanna set the lowpass for the 15 @ 60 and the highpass for the 10's @ 60. you wanna set it to where both crossover slopes meet @ 60Hz @ -3db..... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eyebrow.gif.fe2c18d8720fe8c7eaed347b21ea05a5.gif

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

So I would really like to try and use the 15" in the 10-60Hz range and the 2 10"s in the 60-100Hz range. I have a Kenwood KGC 9044 graphic EQ and crossover which I can set so the subs get the right frequency bands. My current setup runs 25-150Hz into the 2 10"s with both cones out, chassis in.

If space allows, I'd port the 15" and tune it low (low 30's), then run the 10's sealed in a smaller sized box (as it will have a nice "hump" in output in the upper bass/lower midbass region, right where they'll be playing). And then just work with the crossovers to find the right combination of where to highpass the 10's and lowpass the 15.

 

[sonix]

If space allows, I'd port the 15" and tune it low (low 30's), then run the 10's sealed in a smaller sized box (as it will have a nice "hump" in output in the upper bass/lower midbass region, right where they'll be playing). And then just work with the crossovers to find the right combination of where to highpass the 10's and lowpass the 15.

Many thanks Squeak.

The 10"s are in an enclosed Kicker box. A side by side box with a dividing wall, so each cone is isolated.

The 15" is in an enclosed Kicker box the same style as the one above but just a single so it's smaller. I would certainly be able to either convert this or create a new ported box. I've all the necesary literature for making the enclosure and tuning it, from the Kicker website.

Thanks again.

Sonix.