Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
Subwoofers
Cone out or in? Kicker Solo B question.
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="sonix" data-source="post: 917631" data-attributes="member: 561278"><p>Many thanks indeed for the great help and advice.</p><p></p><p>I checked out the link and understand cancelation.</p><p></p><p>What I am concerned about is that I now have a pointless 15" solo B and a 1600W amp that I can't use.</p><p></p><p></p><p>From reading the posts in the thread link you posted Squeak, it seems the above is not worthwhile in money or time spent. However, I find it annoying that in trying to gain 3dB I have to double my equipment. Having now done this I'm very relucant not to put it in my car.</p><p></p><p>So I would really like to try and use the 15" in the 10-60Hz range and the 2 10"s in the 60-100Hz range. I have a Kenwood KGC 9044 graphic EQ and crossover which I can set so the subs get the right frequency bands. My current setup runs 25-150Hz into the 2 10"s with both cones out, chassis in.</p><p></p><p>I appreciate that many people will try to convince me this is not worth doing, but please help if you can. I don't want to sell the 15". I have the patience and ability to set this up correctly and competently.</p><p></p><p>I can even run the 2 10"s with the cones out, as they are now, rather than one in &amp; one out. Perhaps this will reduce the possibility of sound wave cancelations between the 3 subs?</p><p></p><p>As has been mentioned, there are plenty of demo cars which run various sizes of subs &amp; speakers, (obviously showing off the whole range of products the company sells.) so it's certainly possible.</p><p></p><p>The subs will be configured opposite each other, with the 2 10"s in their box facing the rear of the car, with the 15" sunk into the spare wheel well and facing the front of the car. So a V configuration. ( 15" \ / 10" )</p><p></p><p>Again many thanks for your help, any more feedback will be greatly appreciated.</p><p></p><p>Sonix.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="sonix, post: 917631, member: 561278"] Many thanks indeed for the great help and advice. I checked out the link and understand cancelation. What I am concerned about is that I now have a pointless 15" solo B and a 1600W amp that I can't use. From reading the posts in the thread link you posted Squeak, it seems the above is not worthwhile in money or time spent. However, I find it annoying that in trying to gain 3dB I have to double my equipment. Having now done this I'm very relucant not to put it in my car. So I would really like to try and use the 15" in the 10-60Hz range and the 2 10"s in the 60-100Hz range. I have a Kenwood KGC 9044 graphic EQ and crossover which I can set so the subs get the right frequency bands. My current setup runs 25-150Hz into the 2 10"s with both cones out, chassis in. I appreciate that many people will try to convince me this is not worth doing, but please help if you can. I don't want to sell the 15". I have the patience and ability to set this up correctly and competently. I can even run the 2 10"s with the cones out, as they are now, rather than one in & one out. Perhaps this will reduce the possibility of sound wave cancelations between the 3 subs? As has been mentioned, there are plenty of demo cars which run various sizes of subs & speakers, (obviously showing off the whole range of products the company sells.) so it's certainly possible. The subs will be configured opposite each other, with the 2 10"s in their box facing the rear of the car, with the 15" sunk into the spare wheel well and facing the front of the car. So a V configuration. ( 15" \ / 10" ) Again many thanks for your help, any more feedback will be greatly appreciated. Sonix. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
Subwoofers
Cone out or in? Kicker Solo B question.
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list