Complete Novice With Several Questions

[bbeljefe]

Don't be too frustrated with the readings you're getting from the coils on your DMM, because the meter only reads resistance. A voice coil is an inductive load, so the DMM will always be a little bit lower than the published impedance of the speaker. That said, the coil on the JBL that's reading 1Ω is not good.The other one is fine though.

If you run both subs in one box, being that they're different impedances, you're going to have horrible phase angle problems that will muddy and cancel the bass but you can run the JBL sub and just leave the other woofer in the box as a drone cone (passive radiator) of sorts. Also, you can run the JBL with only the good coil connected. You'll loose a little bit of efficiency that way but not so much as you would by adding a resistor. Plus, you'd need one helluva large ceramic resistor and all it would do is rob power and make heat.

I don't recognize the amp but it's worth hooking up and seeing if it will move the speaker. And the fuse on the amplifier power wire is there to protect the wire and nothing else. Since the amp has a fuse, it's protected so you won't need to add a fuse to protect it.

 

[Umbra]

Thanks for the reply, you've answered several questions and gave me a bunch of ideas.

So if I were to wire just the one coil on the JBL, would I just hook up the positive and negative leads on the one side/coil and leave the other set alone?

I can't leave the other hole uncapped, so that's where the dummy cone comes in, in lieu of a second equal impedance sub or a single sub enclosure. I'd leave this one unwired? A quick search for dummy cones showed me some results with a sub with the magnets and coils removed. Would/should I strip the sub or leave it alone?

Out of curiosity, how would a dual enclosure with a dummy cone compare to a single enclosure?