Chaseinbass 96 GMC rebuild sort of ?

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I really need to mess with the EQ on the 80-150 then, just scared to blow the stupid speakers even though I scope them.
I was thinking that distortion from the ppi was a very real possibility, unfortunate. sorry for hijacking your thread OP but since you have the ppi900.4's as well maybe you'll interested in what might be a better option, so is there anything at the same price point with better high output quality?

I got the best midbass from just lowering everything else and keeping the midbass frequenciese at 0 on the EQ and really putting a lot of power to the midbass.

This is my EQ curve, the concept is, if your midbass is lagging then lower everything else other than the midbass and increase overall volume till you get a proper blend with the midbass up front. I was scared of blowing them too but apparently when you make cuts, the overall power output decreases by a lot so you can actually drive the speakers up quite a bit more. Its easy when you know you are clipping, the speaker usually makes crackle/pop sounds or starts breaking up. I'd put the oscope away in all honesty. I got way better results by just learning my system limits and trusting my ears/senses. I literally had zero midbass with using an oscope even with these 10s.

 

[ChaseinBass]

That's something I've heavily considered, you just ran the single wire up to the switch in your dash? Shouldn't be a ground needed. Any pics of where you put it?

Ya I ran an ignition hot wire thru the switch and out to alt . I mounted switch and voltmeter and switch to turn voltmeter on and off at night when not needed along with the taramps clip light in my ashtray so it’s stealth mode sorta .

Can’t see the switches in this pick but they are above and to the right and left of voltmeter. I can get you s better pic tomorrow if you want?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

Ya I ran an ignition hot wire thru the switch and out to alt . I mounted switch and voltmeter and switch to turn voltmeter on and off at night when not needed along with the taramps clip light in my ashtray so it’s stealth mode sorta .

that's more than good enough thanks!

I got the best midbass from just lowering everything else and keeping the midbass frequenciese at 0 on the EQ and really putting a lot of power to the midbass.
This is my EQ curve, the concept is, if your midbass is lagging then lower everything else other than the midbass and increase overall volume till you get a proper blend with the midbass up front. I was scared of blowing them too but apparently when you make cuts, the overall power output decreases by a lot so you can actually drive the speakers up quite a bit more. Its easy when you know you are clipping, the speaker usually makes crackle/pop sounds or starts breaking up. I'd put the oscope away in all honesty. I got way better results by just learning my system limits and trusting my ears/senses. I literally had zero midbass with using an oscope even with these 10s.

you did it with no rta, just by ear? i guess you trust your ears much more than i do but ill definitely give that a try

starting to think a used 4 channel would be better for higher power clarity

 

[ChaseinBass]

that's more than good enough thanks!
I goes without saying but I wouldn’t turn the switch on and off with alts turning , be quite a power surge there and may be hard on regulators.

you did it with no rta, just by ear? i guess you trust your ears much more than i do but ill definitely give that a try

starting to think a used 4 channel would be better for higher power clarity

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

that's more than good enough thanks!


you did it with no rta, just by ear? i guess you trust your ears much more than i do but ill definitely give that a try

starting to think a used 4 channel would be better for higher power clarity

its a lot easier with a graphical EQ to do it by ear than a parametric. Just constantly measure the heat of your speaker's dust cap, amplifier and tweeters as you find the ideal output levels. Usually i have my gains a bit higher and my speaker levels a lot lower so that way if I need to balance output, i dont have to go back and play with the gains. The head unit itself will be the gain knob. I also dont set it to 62 out of 62 volume either i have it around 55 for wiggle room and every volume notch up, you can literally hear if the amp starts clipping via mechanical noise or peaky response.

for music its the guitars and vocals sound peaky or harsh, usually the main culprit is the 3.15khz range and 5khz and sometimes 8khz range which to me are the most offensive range in every setup i've tuned. Either employ a crossover gap or use EQ to go down.

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

its a lot easier with a graphical EQ to do it by ear than a parametric. Just constantly measure the heat of your speaker's dust cap, amplifier and tweeters as you find the ideal output levels. Usually i have my gains a bit higher and my speaker levels a lot lower so that way if I need to balance output, i dont have to go back and play with the gains. The head unit itself will be the gain knob. I also dont set it to 62 out of 62 volume either i have it around 55 for wiggle room and every volume notch up, you can literally hear if the amp starts clipping via mechanical noise or peaky response.
for music its the guitars and vocals sound peaky or harsh, usually the main culprit is the 3.15khz range and 5khz and sometimes 8khz range which to me are the most offensive range in every setup i've tuned. Either employ a crossover gap or use EQ to go down.

i'll start by just adding a 3db cut to those bands and see how it goes tbh i plan on getting an RTA at sound point since i have a parametric eq and id like to get time alignment set

i just dont have the time, ears, or experience to trust myself doing it completely by ear

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

i'll start by just adding a 3db cut to those bands and see how it goes tbh i plan on getting an RTA at sound point since i have a parametric eq and id like to get time alignment set
i just dont have the time, ears, or experience to trust myself doing it completely by ear

to be honest time alignment you dont even need to measure out, just isolate the mids and tweets individually, listen to a centered vocal track and keep adding/subtracting values till the vocals are centered. You can literally feel how the stage shifts left to right with additions and subtractions.

 

[ChaseinBass]

Yahoo ! I finally get drivers side midbass back ! Old one lost a channel got another one coming too my gf bought it for me for Christmas so I gotta wait to get the midbass Anarchy’s each pair there own ppi 900 bridged but can’t wait to hear it !

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

@ChaseinBass Got a brand new Interstate battery for the Tahoe yesterday. Optima finally went out....9.5 volts. Wouldn't hold a charge higher than that. Is there a battery tray that will fit in the same area that the storage container is in?

 

[ChaseinBass]

Ya their is. I got mine I think on eBay for about 30 bucks I want to think ? But if you take storage box out and look I am sure you can get a generic one at autozone or someplace like that and drill holes to fit for much cheaper? I think I felt dumb I didn’t do that when I got the Oem one lol !

Don’t forget the hold down clamp for battery too it’s about 5-10 bucks if you dont have any spares ? You may look at wrecking yard for these items too I just don’t have any near me.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Cool. I'll look into that next summer. I'm about a few miles away from a junk yard lol.

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

Cool. I'll look into that next summer. I'm about a few miles away from a junk yard lol.

does your engine bay have a location for an auxilary battery mount like the 99-06?

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

does your engine bay have a location for an auxilary battery mount like the 99-06?

Not sure I know what you mean but prob not.

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

Not sure I know what you mean but prob not.

see the two yellowtops in this pic

there's two factory available amounts for 99-06, depending on how similar your engine bay is it may be possible

 

[ChaseinBass]

see the two yellowtops in this pic

there's two factory available amounts for 99-06, depending on how similar your engine bay is it may be possible

His motor is same as mine

Don’t know if you can see battery’s in pic but too lazy to go take a better pic now lol

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk