Chaseinbass 96 GMC rebuild sort of ?

How did you get your engine so clean?
I wash it often with simple green in a pump up bug sprayer and water hose (presure washer would be way better and I am going to get one soon) wipe it dry and spray it down with armor all and wipe down all excess and it will look like new. may take a few times of washing it to get it really looking good. Takes a little time wiping it all down by hand. My truck is on dirt roads a lot of the time.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/RL-Flo-Master-1-Gallon-Sprayer/13376324?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227009419045&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40471888592&wl4=pla-60819427646&wl5=9031651&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=13376324&wl13=&veh=sem

One of these or a spray bottle.

 
I've only had belt slip with an old belt, what you experienced is expected. replace the serp every few years and you wont have a problem. takes about half an hour to an hour if you have multiple alts and its only $30-$40. ac belt should also be changed when you hear slip and you're unsure
I replaced it and tensioner and still got a little squeal. But my old one did to at first and then stopped so we will see in next couple days I may see if auto parts store has any belt dressing to make it stickyer too and my serp belt runs my ac also one belt does it all. I am also going to check all the alignment with a stright edge only takes one alt to be out of alinement a little to make it squeel as the alt bolt holes have some slop and may be able get them straight and I didnt check as I installed the new alts.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I have the same load on first start but that's due to the caps inrush current, if you have a voltmeter directly hooked up to them you probably saw the phenomenon right after you added the bank. I doubt your batteries discharge much, I asked earlier because I raised my idle RPM a while ago by about 100 and it helped
I added a switch one of my stereo alts the second one is auto excited so it comes on to charge up caps at start and other one stays off till voltage comes up and that ended my belt squealing, that and new belt and tensioner.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 
Got some new stuff today[emoji4] Adding 3 new ppi 900.4 and DSR1 processor and eventually moving to a three way set up with new A pillars with Ct2 tweeters and 4 inch mids, undecided on which so far? I am waiting on two ppi amps to get here I ordered over a week ago from Car Audio Closeout and they are the worst! You can’t even get them to answer an email ! They **** I won’t be buying anything else from them ! My plan is bridge two of them and have each one run a pair of Anarchy’s and the other one either bridge it to some mids (overkill I know ) and use another one I have now for tweeters or don’t bridge it and let it run both mids and tweets . Started making a new amp board and moving things around a bit with new wiring.

57dd17cc825349f29012401aa3668f77.jpg
cc73c1ceef85a342b92c493d9186bffc.jpg
37c8b08c862fa031183ccae7b4505ab6.jpg


da7403aad3d20a983c3eebd699f9a53d.jpg
d3eac0ce3a2ad7220d6eab82c037dde7.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 
Last edited by a moderator:
That pic of your hand holding the wires together...is....that .........the 4 gauge? Looks like 16 gauge unless you got some Andre the Giant hands //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
Got some new stuff today[emoji4] Adding 3 new ppi 900.4 and DSR1 processor and eventually moving to a three way set up with new A pillars with Ct2 tweeters and 4 inch mids, undecided on which so far? I am waiting on two ppi amps to get here I ordered over a week ago from Car Audio Closeout and they are the worst! You can’t even get them to answer an email ! They **** I won’t be buying anything else from them ! My plan is bridge two of them and have each one run a pair of Anarchy’s and the other one either bridge it to some mids (overkill I know ) and use another one I have now for tweeters or don’t bridge it and let it run both mids and tweets . Started making a new amp board and moving things around a bit with new wiring.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Think you can move up to 5.25 inch mids instead for the A pillars? There's an extremely loud and clean 225 rms midrange option at that size that you'd love.

You can literally bridge a 900.4 to these mids and it'll eat it all up and scream while sound good. https://www.parts-express.com/prv-audio-5mr450-ndy-4-5-midrange-neodymium-woofer-4-ohm--294-2704 If you have the space, going up to the 6.5 one will be quite a bit louder too.

Your front stage will be ridiculous lmfaooo.

 
That pic of your hand holding the wires together...is....that .........the 4 gauge? Looks like 16 gauge unless you got some Andre the Giant hands //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
No lol ! It’s 12 gauge ofc, got on sale from Andrew @ Vertex audio this weekend. Check him out good guy to do business with ! I think it was 125 ft for 45 bucks or something like that ? It’s really nice wire . The other is 4 gauge in the same brand wire.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 
Think you can move up to 5.25 inch mids instead for the A pillars? There's an extremely loud and clean 225 rms midrange option at that size that you'd love.
You can literally bridge a 900.4 to these mids and it'll eat it all up and scream while sound good. https://www.parts-express.com/prv-audio-5mr450-ndy-4-5-midrange-neodymium-woofer-4-ohm--294-2704 If you have the space, going up to the 6.5 one will be quite a bit louder too.

Your front stage will be ridiculous lmfaooo.
I will see if I can , those sound loud Af at 96 dB sensitivity and can take some power. I will see what I can come up with to get a pair in A pillars . And if I got room for another ppi 900.4? thats the real question lol running out of room for equip !

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 
I added a switch one of my stereo alts the second one is auto excited so it comes on to charge up caps at start and other one stays off till voltage comes up and that ended my belt squealing, that and new belt and tensioner.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That's something I've heavily considered, you just ran the single wire up to the switch in your dash? Shouldn't be a ground needed. Any pics of where you put it?

 
You can literally bridge a 900.4 to these mids and it'll eat it all up and scream while sound good. https://www.parts-express.com/prv-audio-5mr450-ndy-4-5-midrange-neodymium-woofer-4-ohm--294-2704 If you have the space, going up to the 6.5 one will be quite a bit louder too.

.
is the story the same for the 6.5 inch? what's the main reasoning for your statement because I have the nendo neos and I'm curious if/why you think the PRV are better because i have 4 of the nendo 6.5s at 4 ohms each and was considering dropping them to 2 in parallel (per side, no TA between them obviously) but if i can do what you're saying it opens the possibility of another ppi 900.4... the nendo neos definitely cannot handle more than ~150w rms

 
is the story the same for the 6.5 inch? what's the main reasoning for your statement because I have the nendo neos and I'm curious if/why you think the PRV are better because i have 4 of the nendo 6.5s at 4 ohms each and was considering dropping them to 2 in parallel (per side, no TA between them obviously) but if i can do what you're saying it opens the possibility of another ppi 900.4... the nendo neos definitely cannot handle more than ~150w rms
You'd be surprised how much power the endos will handle if its clean power. MY buddy bridged a soundqubed 120.4 to a pair of UN 6.5s and it ate everything up.

But yeah the PRVs are much much beefier than the UNs. They are super heavy for 6.5 neos... Got mines bridged on my ppi and they love every ounce of that power but cant be crossed lower than 125hz at -12 db at extreme full tilt.

Just know its gonna be a lot of RCA splitting lmao.

I'm actually thinking of dropping my CT 500.2 and getting two 900.4s to bridge to the 10s.

 
You'd be surprised how much power the endos will handle if its clean power. MY buddy bridged a soundqubed 120.4 to a pair of UN 6.5s and it ate everything up.
But yeah the PRVs are much much beefier than the UNs. They are super heavy for 6.5 neos... Got mines bridged on my ppi and they love every ounce of that power but cant be crossed lower than 125hz at -12 db at extreme full tilt.

Just know its gonna be a lot of RCA splitting lmao.

I'm actually thinking of dropping my CT 500.2 and getting two 900.4s to bridge to the 10s.
Seems like a lot of power, but MAYBE I'll try it on the UN's.. they're screaming at whatever the ppi is putting out (140w or whatever) to the point that they'll nearly break up on heavy metal but that could be my lack of work on getting the DSP fully tuned

I figured I'd have little to no midbass, it's really to be expected with this much effiiciency and the fact that they're pro audio speakers in and out. At this point I already miss most of the 80-120hz range which I hate but the loudness makes it worth it. I'll definitely consider the PRV's though

I already have 10 RCA's and it's not a horrible mess, 4 more wont be bad lol

 
Seems like a lot of power, but MAYBE I'll try it on the UN's.. they're screaming at whatever the ppi is putting out (140w or whatever) to the point that they'll nearly break up on heavy metal but that could be my lack of work on getting the DSP fully tuned

I figured I'd have little to no midbass, it's really to be expected with this much effiiciency and the fact that they're pro audio speakers in and out. At this point I already miss most of the 80-120hz range which I hate but the loudness makes it worth it. I'll definitely consider the PRV's though

I already have 10 RCA's and it's not a horrible mess, 4 more wont be bad lol
the break up is from the amp distorting not the speaker. Those UNs can actually give a solid 80-200hz thud man. Not as much as the pwx but no slouch either. I get the same break up issues from not bridging the ppi on the prvs on 145 watts at high volumes, overall sounds nasty when the amp is overdriven like that. bridged is a whole different story, endless clean power, endless clean sound.

try disconnecting a pair, see how it sounds then bridge the power and see how it sounds.

 
the break up is from the amp distorting not the speaker. Those UNs can actually give a solid 80-200hz thud man. Not as much as the pwx but no slouch either. I get the same break up issues from not bridging the ppi on the prvs on 145 watts at high volumes.
I really need to mess with the EQ on the 80-150 then, just scared to blow the stupid speakers even though I scope them.

I was thinking that distortion from the ppi was a very real possibility, unfortunate. sorry for hijacking your thread OP but since you have the ppi900.4's as well maybe you'll interested in what might be a better option, so is there anything at the same price point with better high output quality?

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

About this thread

ChaseinBass

CarAudio.com Veteran
Thread starter
ChaseinBass
Joined
Location
Calif
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
327
Views
32,124
Last reply date
Last reply from
ChaseinBass
design.jpeg

WNCTracker

    May 22, 2026
  • 0
  • 0
IMG_2118.jpeg

WNCTracker

    May 22, 2026
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top