Car Audio semi-n00b needing ideas for “front only” system...6.5” component spkrs with appropriate amp


Lasherž

CarAudio.com Veteran
Apr 27, 2020
555
109
United States
Lol all you want. I hit 143.8 before my shit was even tuned up. From the with both doors open and the sunroof open.
Dude, I'm hitting over 143 with a 95 amp alternator. Can you show me more than that?
I think you may be missing the point of what I'm going for. I don't mean that song gets loud, I mean it requires clarity and accuracy.
It sounds like he doesn't want hair standing Bass
Nor do I, hence the sealed enclosure. I want clarity on bass riffs and sharp kicks as similar to live as possible. Louder is nice to be able to do, but 143db isn't my goal or OPs.

I'm pretty sure to get a 143.8 with a sealed enclosure I'd need like 15kW lol.
 

Bobbytwonames

Pro Pot Stirrer
Aug 28, 2018
2,088
-152
I think you may be missing the point of what I'm going for. I don't mean that song gets loud, I mean it requires clarity and accuracy.

Nor do I, hence the sealed enclosure. I want clarity on bass riffs and sharp kicks as similar to live as possible. Louder is nice to be able to do, but 143db isn't my goal or OPs.

I'm pretty sure to get a 143.8 with a sealed enclosure I'd need like 15kW lol.
I'm over 143 with a single 15" and a 95 amp alternator. My midbass is totally legit. Please name another 6.5" midbass that hits between 80-3k. Not a woofer, a midbass. I'll hang up and wait. If you want to call me, feel free. 9132213987
 

Bobbytwonames

Pro Pot Stirrer
Aug 28, 2018
2,088
-152
I think you may be missing the point of what I'm going for. I don't mean that song gets loud, I mean it requires clarity and accuracy.

Nor do I, hence the sealed enclosure. I want clarity on bass riffs and sharp kicks as similar to live as possible. Louder is nice to be able to do, but 143db isn't my goal or OPs.

I'm pretty sure to get a 143.8 with a sealed enclosure I'd need like 15kW lol.
Define clarity on a bass note over 140db? What is the difference in a clean 145 db and a sloppy db?
 

krisfnbz

CarAudio.com Veteran
10+ year member
Sep 13, 2006
4,768
7
Frederick MD
You could probably cut your budget nearly in half and still come up with a system you would be very happy with. No need to throw money away.

Strong front midbass is overrated. It's one of the least important parts of this entire build, imo. Not where my money would go. Sure it is nice, but it requires so much more effort and even after proper equipment and deadening, its still a pain to deal with. Just play the sub up to 100-125hz. This is not a popular opinion.

I would go with these component speakers in the front. Excellent value. I have hear these speakers in several setups over the years. They are winners.

Polk Audio DB6501

Next you need to figure out whether you want to install 2 amps or 1. If you go 1, you find a quality 4 channel amp that will bridge 2 channels into 400-500 watts. If that is not enough power for the sub you choose, then you'll need another amplifier. 400-500 watts with a ported subwoofer will be plenty...for now.

If you want to spend more, I'd keep this subwoofer in mind. This thing will hit hard

Dayton Audio UM12-22

If you want to spend less: Skar subwoofers. Priced well and get the job done.
 

Lasherž

CarAudio.com Veteran
Apr 27, 2020
555
109
United States
I would go with these component speakers in the front. Excellent value. I have hear these speakers in several setups over the years. They are winners.

Polk Audio DB6501
I had those installed in my last car. They sounded pretty good, even in my undeadened door although I was surprised that my new car's stock speakers sounded better. I don't think the actual driver quality is better, I just think the new car has better deadening built in than the old one ever did. Deadening definitely plays as large of a role in the quality of the door speakers as the choice in driver does.

Also something to be aware of with those that I ran into is that the tweeter dome is a little proud of the baffle edge, so grilles may not fit over them compared to component speakers. That goes for both the 6x9 3-ways in that series as well as the 6 1/2" 2-ways.
 
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BCotrell

Senior VIP Member
May 27, 2015
1,025
194
irvine, ca
I read this whole Thread again And unless I read the wrong specs on the deck many of the recommendations don’t account for the fact that that unit doesn’t have active capability. A
Few others things:

it’s a commuter car man...don’t out price the car( no disrespect I’m driving a 2000 Acura TL my mother in law gave me)

Those polk components are solid...the nvx vsp65’s are solid too. (80-90$). Door treatment can make budget comps sound good.

this amp bridged will provide plenty of power (90$)


your subStage is in the trunk and I know you listed a lot of rock but I bet one 8 or 10 will leave you wanting more. Grab a tnt 12 and get a ported enclosure. (108$)

md1200.1 amp ( $170)


$460 on that equipment, plenty left for ported enclosure, 4 channel amp kit, big 3 electrical fortification, and saving some doll hairs
 
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Lasherž

CarAudio.com Veteran
Apr 27, 2020
555
109
United States
this amp bridged will provide plenty of power (90$)

Bob's recommendations include a good brand named Taramps which are known for cheap but high quality amps. I recommend them as well, but something to be aware of with many of their models (including the multi-channel one mentioned, TS400x4 or DS-440x4 can't tell which was intended), is they don't have a variable highpass/lowpass cutoff so you'll be reliant on either a sound processor bought separately, the head unit's limited fixed HPF options, or the amp's limited fixed option for picking your crossover points.
It's true the previous options are a bit overkill for the car, but if the speakers are valuable enough there's nothing wrong taking them to the next car. They're 6 1/2"s and even with stock speakers back in it'll sound just fine with the treatment still there. My first car cost 3k and I spent 1.3k over the years on sound equipment for it, I don't personally regret it but it would probably seem like too much as one single expenditure considering the structural frame was completely rusting out lol. When I switched from that car to the next one I brought over about $900 in equipment out of the 1.3k. I had to drive it, so the extra gear made it less miserable.
 

Bobbytwonames

Pro Pot Stirrer
Aug 28, 2018
2,088
-152
PolkDB6501 $100
Taramps DS250X2 $60
2- VFL8D4 $250
Taramps MD1200 one ohm $170

$580 Total
The Taramps has and adjustable crossover
 

BCotrell

Senior VIP Member
May 27, 2015
1,025
194
irvine, ca
It's true the previous options are a bit overkill for the car, but if the speakers are valuable enough there's nothing wrong taking them to the next car. They're 6 1/2"s and even with stock speakers back in it'll sound just fine with the treatment still there. My first car cost 3k and I spent 1.3k over the years on sound equipment for it, I don't personally regret it but it would probably seem like too much as one single expenditure considering the structural frame was completely rusting out lol. When I switched from that car to the next one I brought over about $900 in equipment out of the 1.3k. I had to drive it, so the extra gear made it less miserable.
I mean I don’t disagree with your strategy but for the time it takes to out old factory stuff back in is it worth moving out a $100 deck and a set of speakers. I guess that was my point. I’ve never sold a vehicle and put it back to factory from a hu and speakers perspective. Taking the sub and amp stage makes sense. He’ll be able to put those polks to the headunit power and reconnect the factory doors if he sells it.

also on the active comment, crutchfield stats read wonky. If active is possible a set of tweets and flutes in the mildly treaters front doors has great potential. Didn’t want to discourage a 130$ solution that would likely sound better than any component set approaching $300. Maybe one of you guys that reads better than I can chime in.
  • Tweeter: Set high pass filter (HPF) for tweeters.
    • Frequency: 1kHz, 1.6kHz, 2.5kHz, 4kHz, 5kHz, 6.3kHz, 8kHz, 10kHz, 12.5kHz
    • Gain: -8 to 0 dB
  • Front & Rear: Independently set high pass filter (HPF) for front & rear speakers.
    • Frequency: 30Hz, 40Hz, 50Hz, 60Hz, 70Hz, 80Hz, 90Hz, 100Hz, 120Hz, 150Hz, 180Hz, 220Hz, 250Hz, Through (Full-Range)
    • Slope: -6dB, -12dB, -18dB, -24dB
    • Gain: -8 to 0 dB
  • Sub: Set low pass filter (LPF) for the sub output.
    • Frequency: 30Hz, 40Hz, 50Hz, 60Hz, 70Hz, 80Hz, 90Hz, 100Hz, 120Hz, 150Hz, 180Hz, 220Hz, 250Hz, Through (Full-Range)
    • Slope: -6dB, -12dB, -18dB, -24dB
    • Phase: Reverse (180°), Normal (0°)
    • Gain: -8 to 0 dB
 
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Bobbytwonames

Pro Pot Stirrer
Aug 28, 2018
2,088
-152
I mean I don’t disagree with your strategy but for the time it takes to out old factory stuff back in is it worth moving out a $100 deck and a set of speakers. I guess that was my point. I’ve never sold a vehicle and put it back to factory from a hu and speakers perspective. Taking the sub and amp stage makes sense. He’ll be able to put those polks to the headunit power and reconnect the factory doors if he sells it.

also on the active comment, crutchfield stats read wonky. If active is possible a set of tweets and flutes in the mildly treaters front doors has great potential. Didn’t want to discourage a 130$ solution that would likely sound better than any component set approaching $300. Maybe one of you guys that reads better than I can chime in.
  • Tweeter: Set high pass filter (HPF) for tweeters.
    • Frequency: 1kHz, 1.6kHz, 2.5kHz, 4kHz, 5kHz, 6.3kHz, 8kHz, 10kHz, 12.5kHz
    • Gain: -8 to 0 dB
  • Front & Rear: Independently set high pass filter (HPF) for front & rear speakers.
    • Frequency: 30Hz, 40Hz, 50Hz, 60Hz, 70Hz, 80Hz, 90Hz, 100Hz, 120Hz, 150Hz, 180Hz, 220Hz, 250Hz, Through (Full-Range)
    • Slope: -6dB, -12dB, -18dB, -24dB
    • Gain: -8 to 0 dB
  • Sub: Set low pass filter (LPF) for the sub output.
    • Frequency: 30Hz, 40Hz, 50Hz, 60Hz, 70Hz, 80Hz, 90Hz, 100Hz, 120Hz, 150Hz, 180Hz, 220Hz, 250Hz, Through (Full-Range)
    • Slope: -6dB, -12dB, -18dB, -24dB
    • Phase: Reverse (180°), Normal (0°)
    • Gain: -8 to 0 dB

With the system I posted for him, all he has to do is yank the amps and sub box, then, hook the Polks up to the HU. So, max he is out is $100 plus the cost of the HU.
 
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