Car Audio Facts.

Its not unnecessary when you live in a place that uses salt on the roads in winter and your POS stock woven wire is all corroded to bits.
Ok, I guess that under extreme circumstances it would be necessary. But batt to block is not part of the original "big 3". I've always known it as these.

1. batt to alt

2. batt to chassis

3. batt to frame ( for cars that have them )

I'm not saying batt to block isn't a good idea but I'd never heard of it til now. I can't see how that would improve an audio system's performance either.

 
Ok, I guess that under extreme circumstances it would be necessary. But batt to block is not part of the original "big 3". I've always known it as these.
1. batt to alt

2. batt to chassis

3. batt to frame ( for cars that have them )

I'm not saying batt to block isn't a good idea but I'd never heard of it til now. I can't see how that would improve an audio system's performance either.
If anything it'll increase peformance.

There's gotta be a reason those ricers use the grounding kits.

 
The ricers use grounding kits for the same reason that they use big rear wings on front drive cars...no good reason. They don't do shit for performance.

No one upgrades the block to battery? Really? That's the ground for your alt. If you don't upgrade the alt ground you may as well not upgrade the alt + either. There's not point in upgrading the bat to frame and bat to chassis in a framed vehicle. Upgrade the one you plan to use for an amp ground. If you are grounding the amps to the frame, and there's no reason that you shouldn't if your car has one, then upgrade the bat to frame ground. Nothing further gained by grounding the fender, too. If you really want to though you could do both with the same lead off the battery going to the fender and then running a jumper from there to the frame.

Even the "official big 3" sticky on this site shows upgrading the block ground.

 
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