Cap or additional batt or ho alternator?

I would still use the wiring before the stock speaker plug and solder into that then run to the input on the lc7i then the output to the amp input then amp output directly to speakers right?
That is the correct way to hook it up, yes. Don't cut the wire though when you tap it, you can just move the insulation away and put the new wire between about half and half of the strands then twist around. Ideally for connections like that you'd use heat shrink but in this case you probably won't be able to find a heatshrink that'll fit over the connector and shrink small enough so use electrical tape. Make sure it's tight enough to almost be stretching as you wrap it to get good results. Heat shrink the new wire as it comes out of the tape wrapping for strain relief.
Didnt test which speakers had the better option
It should be pretty easy, kicker's website has some tones you can download and play on your phone if you have Bluetooth. They also offer .wav files for CD's. What Jeff said is on the money. The signal that it's taking from the HU output is the limitation on how good an LOC can be. The reason a lot of people here recommend replacing the unit is it eliminates a lot of potential issues but ultimately it's only potentially going to be an issue until you test the tones and know for sure. An LOC breaking up 6 outputs from one single high quality input is hands down better than an LOC breaking up 6 inputs each from varying quality signals to each of their independent outputs. The only upside to the latter is that you maintain fader functionality, but it's not worth having half of your bass response cut off and then recreated from noise. You can always adjust the front/back volume from the LC7i itself.
 
Thanks again, I figured there wouldn't be any shrink that would shrink that much, so either t tap or just tap into it. I wanted to do an iPad dash kit and use lightning to rca cable but my stock touchscreen has the climate and seat controls all in it too so I'd had to downgrade to base model headunit so I'm not gonna bother going that way and I honestly never balance or fade anyway, it's always right in the middle for me.
 
So the front speakers are significantly louder with 30hz test, barely noticeable in the rear but it's still somewhat there. Guess I'll be using the fronts to share the subwoofer signal.

Should have the LEDs glued in place and carpeted today, and possibly cut the acrylic for the windows. Probably have to wait till next weekend to wire everything but it should be done by then I hope.
 
21907


Here a slight mock up, yes its crooked because it's just placed in there, but theres a floor to hold the battery and electronics and wiring and everything. The jl amp is being replaced with a new skar amp, the battery will be turned around so the logo is upright. I made this top tray with hinges and there are risers so theres a .5inch gap between the board and the electronics due to weight. I needed a "cover" because I will still need to use this cargo area for stroller or groceries or anything else and be able to hold the weight efficiently while still maintaining the use of the 3rd row. I just hope it all looks alright when complete next weekend.
 
View attachment 21907

Here a slight mock up, yes its crooked because it's just placed in there, but theres a floor to hold the battery and electronics and wiring and everything. The jl amp is being replaced with a new skar amp, the battery will be turned around so the logo is upright. I made this top tray with hinges and there are risers so theres a .5inch gap between the board and the electronics due to weight. I needed a "cover" because I will still need to use this cargo area for stroller or groceries or anything else and be able to hold the weight efficiently while still maintaining the use of the 3rd row. I just hope it all looks alright when complete next weekend.
Looks good, you've put a lot of thought into it.
 
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