Cap or additional batt or ho alternator?


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Bass Xploder

CarAudio.com Newbie
Apr 27, 2020
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Jersey
Sorry it's been a while but quick update.

Big 3 wiring with 0 gauge and new power and ground wiring at 0 gauge with the addition of an xs power xp3000 has stopped the rpm drop.

In process of building the battery cover and amp false floor/beauty panel. Have everything cut and routed and ready to go. Just got my new amps and lc7i is here. "The top cover" will have "windows" for acrylic to see portions of each electronic device. Tonight I'll be adding red LEDs to show off a bit even though most will say its ricer status but I like the added touch of some lighting and if time permits I'll be carpeting it also.
 

Lasherž

CarAudio.com VIP
Apr 27, 2020
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At least if that doesn't fix the rpm drop issues you'll have a very good battery which is never a bad thing. I'm still sticking to the likelihood an air intake part being dirty.
Big 3 wiring with 0 gauge and new power and ground wiring at 0 gauge with the addition of an xs power xp3000 has stopped the rpm drop.
Well consider me corrected. I've never heard of an alternator dragging that much on an engine (half rpm? that's crazy even after jumper cables are disconnected), AC compressors basically always drag more if it's not an HO alt. I'd still check the air filter at a minimum for shits and giggles to see how dirty it is, but if your problem's solved I guess your problem's solved.
In process of building the battery cover and amp false floor/beauty panel. Have everything cut and routed and ready to go. Just got my new amps and lc7i is here. "The top cover" will have "windows" for acrylic to see portions of each electronic device. Tonight I'll be adding red LEDs to show off a bit even though most will say its ricer status but I like the added touch of some lighting and if time permits I'll be carpeting it also.
Sweet, can't wait to see pictures. Something to keep in mind while installing the LC7i and something I forgot to check when I used a similar LOC, use the fader to pick out the speakers that drop out the least with a 60hz tone. I just discovered the other day that my rear stock speakers put out virtually no bass compared to my door stock speakers and I tapped the rear for my LOC. Oops! The LC line from Audiocontrol can bring back bass, but having a stronger source in the first place for those frequencies is always preferable by far. Nothing wrong with a little ricer status if it's done cleanly and doesn't give anyone seizures lol.
 
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Bass Xploder

CarAudio.com Newbie
Apr 27, 2020
12
3
Jersey
Well consider me corrected. I've never heard of an alternator dragging that much on an engine (half rpm? that's crazy even after jumper cables are disconnected), AC compressors basically always drag more if it's not an HO alt. I'd still check the air filter at a minimum for shits and giggles to see how dirty it is, but if your problem's solved I guess your problem's solved.

Sweet, can't wait to see pictures. Something to keep in mind while installing the LC7i and something I forgot to check when I used a similar LOC, use the fader to pick out the speakers that drop out the least with a 60hz tone. I just discovered the other day that my rear stock speakers put out virtually no bass compared to my door stock speakers and I tapped the rear for my LOC. Oops! The LC line from Audiocontrol can bring back bass, but having a stronger source in the first place for those frequencies is always preferable by far. Nothing wrong with a little ricer status if it's done cleanly and doesn't give anyone seizures lol.

Just a solid color, no strobes or anything, just a little illumination. Air filter is still basically brand new and clean as a whistle.

I thought with the lc7i your running from the input of the speaker wiring to the lc7i input then output to the amp input then to the speakers? Maybe I'm wrong and have been for awhile
 

Lasherž

CarAudio.com VIP
Apr 27, 2020
318
32
United States
I thought with the lc7i your running from the input of the speaker wiring to the lc7i input then output to the amp input then to the speakers? Maybe I'm wrong and have been for awhile
You're 100% correct, however the filtering that stock stereo systems do to each speaker is done at the head unit not passively on the speaker wire. So what this means is that your head unit has aggressive high pass filters on some speakers but not others direct from the HU, so recovering a clean bass signal (using LC7i's Acubass feature) from the speaker wires which receive very little bass frequencies is going to be significantly more difficult than recovering a clean bass signal from one that wasn't filtered in that way. It's like trying to resharpen an image that's been compressed, you're gonna end up with more noise. The 60hz test just basically prevents you from tapping the wrong speaker wires for a bass signal.

With an LC7i if you get a single signal that's full range you may not need to tap more than 2 speakers (right and left) to generate all of your signal to the amplifier(s).
 
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jt4x4

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Jul 22, 2019
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Honest advice is not to engage with people like that. This forum is full of them. People with a lot of posts think they are kings, and there's an equal amount of fanboys who will jump to defend their king and throw out generic insults. Even if you prove them wrong or have a sound counterargument, they will just jump to a different topic to call you wrong about, and believe me, they spend a lot more time behind a keyboard than you do and they have a lot more "need" to be right.

Been there; done that.

- Joe
Yeah Kushy. I don't think you could do anything to prove me more RIGHT than to thumbs down that post.
 
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Bass Xploder

CarAudio.com Newbie
Apr 27, 2020
12
3
Jersey
Just a solid color, no strobes or anything, just a little illumination. Air filter is still basically brand new and clean as a whistle.

I thought with the lc7i your running from the input of the speaker wiring to the lc7i input then output to the amp input then to the speakers? Maybe I'm wrong and have been for awhile
So with this, then, where should my lc7i input wiring be wired to?
 

Lasherž

CarAudio.com VIP
Apr 27, 2020
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So with this, then, where should my lc7i input wiring be wired to?
Play a 60 hz test tone over your speakers and listen as you use the fader to eliminate the front and then the back. The speakers which play the tone loudest are the ones you want to tap for a subwoofer. If you go with speakers which barely play that tone you'll have an uphill battle to get the bass to sound good using those as inputs for the LOC.

Example, my stock front door speakers play loud and clear 60hz, but when I use the fader to eliminate the front speakers I basically can't hear the tone any more because the rear speakers are "protected" from that tone by the head unit right from the factory. In this scenario I would want to tap only the front speakers, never the rear at least for a subwoofer LOC input.

Another example, in my last car my rear speakers were 6x9 and my door speakers were only 5 1/2" the factory head unit protected the door speaks from low tones in that car and so tapping the rear would make more sense. The 60hz tone appeared only when the rear speakers were included, if you faded all the way to the front you couldn't hear it.
 
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Jeffdachef

Gunz That Turn on Nunz
Feb 5, 2013
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South Coast Metro, CA
you want 30 to 40 hz tones to see if you get anything otherwise the stock head unit is not gonna cut it for your subwoofers. Meaning the signal is completely non existent and all you are doing is boosting up a garbage signal. LC7I has caused more issues on this forum than solved because its not the product's fault, its how head units are setup nowadays audiowise. They all have a built in high pass crossover to protect the shitty low quality stock speakers along with built in EQ to make the shitty speakers sound better. However when you use that EQ'd signal to aftermarket speakers that require a flat signal, you gonna get extremely mixed results, most of the times below average.
 
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Bass Xploder

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Apr 27, 2020
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Thanks guys, very helpful. Today I'm gonna be wiring up the LEDs inside and doing the carpeting on my balcony since weather is an issue, hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to run all the wiring and replace speakers and tweeters if it doesn't rain or that'll wait till next weekend.
 
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Bass Xploder

CarAudio.com Newbie
Apr 27, 2020
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Jersey
Play a 60 hz test tone over your speakers and listen as you use the fader to eliminate the front and then the back. The speakers which play the tone loudest are the ones you want to tap for a subwoofer. If you go with speakers which barely play that tone you'll have an uphill battle to get the bass to sound good using those as inputs for the LOC.

Example, my stock front door speakers play loud and clear 60hz, but when I use the fader to eliminate the front speakers I basically can't hear the tone any more because the rear speakers are "protected" from that tone by the head unit right from the factory. In this scenario I would want to tap only the front speakers, never the rear at least for a subwoofer LOC input.

Another example, in my last car my rear speakers were 6x9 and my door speakers were only 5 1/2" the factory head unit protected the door speaks from low tones in that car and so tapping the rear would make more sense. The 60hz tone appeared only when the rear speakers were included, if you faded all the way to the front you couldn't hear it.
Didnt test which speakers had the better option, but I would still use the wiring before the stock speaker plug and solder into that then run to the input on the lc7i then the output to the amp input then amp output directly to speakers right?
 

Lasherž

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Apr 27, 2020
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I would still use the wiring before the stock speaker plug and solder into that then run to the input on the lc7i then the output to the amp input then amp output directly to speakers right?
That is the correct way to hook it up, yes. Don't cut the wire though when you tap it, you can just move the insulation away and put the new wire between about half and half of the strands then twist around. Ideally for connections like that you'd use heat shrink but in this case you probably won't be able to find a heatshrink that'll fit over the connector and shrink small enough so use electrical tape. Make sure it's tight enough to almost be stretching as you wrap it to get good results. Heat shrink the new wire as it comes out of the tape wrapping for strain relief.
Didnt test which speakers had the better option
It should be pretty easy, kicker's website has some tones you can download and play on your phone if you have Bluetooth. They also offer .wav files for CD's. What Jeff said is on the money. The signal that it's taking from the HU output is the limitation on how good an LOC can be. The reason a lot of people here recommend replacing the unit is it eliminates a lot of potential issues but ultimately it's only potentially going to be an issue until you test the tones and know for sure. An LOC breaking up 6 outputs from one single high quality input is hands down better than an LOC breaking up 6 inputs each from varying quality signals to each of their independent outputs. The only upside to the latter is that you maintain fader functionality, but it's not worth having half of your bass response cut off and then recreated from noise. You can always adjust the front/back volume from the LC7i itself.
 
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Bass Xploder

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Apr 27, 2020
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Jersey
Thanks again, I figured there wouldn't be any shrink that would shrink that much, so either t tap or just tap into it. I wanted to do an iPad dash kit and use lightning to rca cable but my stock touchscreen has the climate and seat controls all in it too so I'd had to downgrade to base model headunit so I'm not gonna bother going that way and I honestly never balance or fade anyway, it's always right in the middle for me.
 
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Bass Xploder

CarAudio.com Newbie
Apr 27, 2020
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So the front speakers are significantly louder with 30hz test, barely noticeable in the rear but it's still somewhat there. Guess I'll be using the fronts to share the subwoofer signal.

Should have the LEDs glued in place and carpeted today, and possibly cut the acrylic for the windows. Probably have to wait till next weekend to wire everything but it should be done by then I hope.
 
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Bass Xploder

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Apr 27, 2020
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Jersey
21907


Here a slight mock up, yes its crooked because it's just placed in there, but theres a floor to hold the battery and electronics and wiring and everything. The jl amp is being replaced with a new skar amp, the battery will be turned around so the logo is upright. I made this top tray with hinges and there are risers so theres a .5inch gap between the board and the electronics due to weight. I needed a "cover" because I will still need to use this cargo area for stroller or groceries or anything else and be able to hold the weight efficiently while still maintaining the use of the 3rd row. I just hope it all looks alright when complete next weekend.
 

Lasherž

CarAudio.com VIP
Apr 27, 2020
318
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United States
View attachment 21907

Here a slight mock up, yes its crooked because it's just placed in there, but theres a floor to hold the battery and electronics and wiring and everything. The jl amp is being replaced with a new skar amp, the battery will be turned around so the logo is upright. I made this top tray with hinges and there are risers so theres a .5inch gap between the board and the electronics due to weight. I needed a "cover" because I will still need to use this cargo area for stroller or groceries or anything else and be able to hold the weight efficiently while still maintaining the use of the 3rd row. I just hope it all looks alright when complete next weekend.
Looks good, you've put a lot of thought into it.
 
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