Cap or additional batt or ho alternator?

You act like I was born when my first post occurred lol. There'd be a lot less drama in the world if people didn't get offended on other people's behalves. If I'm wrong, argue a point, otherwise you're just spreading drama you have nothing to do with on a post about helping someone. Take a chill pill.
Honest advice is not to engage with people like that. This forum is full of them. People with a lot of posts think they are kings, and there's an equal amount of fanboys who will jump to defend their king and throw out generic insults. Even if you prove them wrong or have a sound counterargument, they will just jump to a different topic to call you wrong about, and believe me, they spend a lot more time behind a keyboard than you do and they have a lot more "need" to be right.

Been there; done that.

- Joe
 
Honest advice is not to engage with people like that. This forum is full of them. People with a lot of posts think they are kings, and there's an equal amount of fanboys who will jump to defend their king and throw out generic insults. Even if you prove them wrong or have a sound counterargument, they will just jump to a different topic to call you wrong about, and believe me, they spend a lot more time behind a keyboard than you do and they have a lot more "need" to be right.

Been there; done that.

- Joe
Yeah, starting to see that now. Thanks for the advice. I've had my fair share of arguments about capacitors among other things and I forgot what I learned from those until you reminded me: If your advice speaks for itself then trust that it will.
 
So it's been some time and I've ordered the big 3, a 120ah agm battery a second 4channel amp, new wiring for everything, replacing the original power and ground with 0ga and new speakers and tweeters for the 4ch amp and I'm making a battery and amp box in the spare tire location because I need the third row seats to still be functional. So far I've done the big 3, but still waiting for my battery to come in. Of course everything else arrived already and all supplies are good to go. Once everything is ready this week I'll be redoing it all on saturday with weather permitting since I dont have access to a garage. I'll send updates and let everyone know how it's going, but I'll probably start another thread for the actual build and add pictures and some details and instructions.
 
So it's been some time and I've ordered the big 3, a 120ah agm battery a second 4channel amp, new wiring for everything, replacing the original power and ground with 0ga and new speakers and tweeters for the 4ch amp and I'm making a battery and amp box in the spare tire location because I need the third row seats to still be functional. So far I've done the big 3, but still waiting for my battery to come in. Of course everything else arrived already and all supplies are good to go. Once everything is ready this week I'll be redoing it all on saturday with weather permitting since I dont have access to a garage. I'll send updates and let everyone know how it's going, but I'll probably start another thread for the actual build and add pictures and some details and instructions.
Awesome, thanks for the update. Good luck on the process, try and stay patient and thorough. At least if that doesn't fix the rpm drop issues you'll have a very good battery which is never a bad thing. I'm still sticking to the likelihood an air intake part being dirty.
 
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Sorry it's been a while but quick update.

Big 3 wiring with 0 gauge and new power and ground wiring at 0 gauge with the addition of an xs power xp3000 has stopped the rpm drop.

In process of building the battery cover and amp false floor/beauty panel. Have everything cut and routed and ready to go. Just got my new amps and lc7i is here. "The top cover" will have "windows" for acrylic to see portions of each electronic device. Tonight I'll be adding red LEDs to show off a bit even though most will say its ricer status but I like the added touch of some lighting and if time permits I'll be carpeting it also.
 
At least if that doesn't fix the rpm drop issues you'll have a very good battery which is never a bad thing. I'm still sticking to the likelihood an air intake part being dirty.
Big 3 wiring with 0 gauge and new power and ground wiring at 0 gauge with the addition of an xs power xp3000 has stopped the rpm drop.
Well consider me corrected. I've never heard of an alternator dragging that much on an engine (half rpm? that's crazy even after jumper cables are disconnected), AC compressors basically always drag more if it's not an HO alt. I'd still check the air filter at a minimum for shits and giggles to see how dirty it is, but if your problem's solved I guess your problem's solved.
In process of building the battery cover and amp false floor/beauty panel. Have everything cut and routed and ready to go. Just got my new amps and lc7i is here. "The top cover" will have "windows" for acrylic to see portions of each electronic device. Tonight I'll be adding red LEDs to show off a bit even though most will say its ricer status but I like the added touch of some lighting and if time permits I'll be carpeting it also.
Sweet, can't wait to see pictures. Something to keep in mind while installing the LC7i and something I forgot to check when I used a similar LOC, use the fader to pick out the speakers that drop out the least with a 60hz tone. I just discovered the other day that my rear stock speakers put out virtually no bass compared to my door stock speakers and I tapped the rear for my LOC. Oops! The LC line from Audiocontrol can bring back bass, but having a stronger source in the first place for those frequencies is always preferable by far. Nothing wrong with a little ricer status if it's done cleanly and doesn't give anyone seizures lol.
 
Well consider me corrected. I've never heard of an alternator dragging that much on an engine (half rpm? that's crazy even after jumper cables are disconnected), AC compressors basically always drag more if it's not an HO alt. I'd still check the air filter at a minimum for shits and giggles to see how dirty it is, but if your problem's solved I guess your problem's solved.

Sweet, can't wait to see pictures. Something to keep in mind while installing the LC7i and something I forgot to check when I used a similar LOC, use the fader to pick out the speakers that drop out the least with a 60hz tone. I just discovered the other day that my rear stock speakers put out virtually no bass compared to my door stock speakers and I tapped the rear for my LOC. Oops! The LC line from Audiocontrol can bring back bass, but having a stronger source in the first place for those frequencies is always preferable by far. Nothing wrong with a little ricer status if it's done cleanly and doesn't give anyone seizures lol.


Just a solid color, no strobes or anything, just a little illumination. Air filter is still basically brand new and clean as a whistle.

I thought with the lc7i your running from the input of the speaker wiring to the lc7i input then output to the amp input then to the speakers? Maybe I'm wrong and have been for awhile
 
I thought with the lc7i your running from the input of the speaker wiring to the lc7i input then output to the amp input then to the speakers? Maybe I'm wrong and have been for awhile

You're 100% correct, however the filtering that stock stereo systems do to each speaker is done at the head unit not passively on the speaker wire. So what this means is that your head unit has aggressive high pass filters on some speakers but not others direct from the HU, so recovering a clean bass signal (using LC7i's Acubass feature) from the speaker wires which receive very little bass frequencies is going to be significantly more difficult than recovering a clean bass signal from one that wasn't filtered in that way. It's like trying to resharpen an image that's been compressed, you're gonna end up with more noise. The 60hz test just basically prevents you from tapping the wrong speaker wires for a bass signal.

With an LC7i if you get a single signal that's full range you may not need to tap more than 2 speakers (right and left) to generate all of your signal to the amplifier(s).
 
Honest advice is not to engage with people like that. This forum is full of them. People with a lot of posts think they are kings, and there's an equal amount of fanboys who will jump to defend their king and throw out generic insults. Even if you prove them wrong or have a sound counterargument, they will just jump to a different topic to call you wrong about, and believe me, they spend a lot more time behind a keyboard than you do and they have a lot more "need" to be right.

Been there; done that.

- Joe

Yeah Kushy. I don't think you could do anything to prove me more RIGHT than to thumbs down that post.
 
Just a solid color, no strobes or anything, just a little illumination. Air filter is still basically brand new and clean as a whistle.

I thought with the lc7i your running from the input of the speaker wiring to the lc7i input then output to the amp input then to the speakers? Maybe I'm wrong and have been for awhile

So with this, then, where should my lc7i input wiring be wired to?
 
So with this, then, where should my lc7i input wiring be wired to?

Play a 60 hz test tone over your speakers and listen as you use the fader to eliminate the front and then the back. The speakers which play the tone loudest are the ones you want to tap for a subwoofer. If you go with speakers which barely play that tone you'll have an uphill battle to get the bass to sound good using those as inputs for the LOC.

Example, my stock front door speakers play loud and clear 60hz, but when I use the fader to eliminate the front speakers I basically can't hear the tone any more because the rear speakers are "protected" from that tone by the head unit right from the factory. In this scenario I would want to tap only the front speakers, never the rear at least for a subwoofer LOC input.

Another example, in my last car my rear speakers were 6x9 and my door speakers were only 5 1/2" the factory head unit protected the door speaks from low tones in that car and so tapping the rear would make more sense. The 60hz tone appeared only when the rear speakers were included, if you faded all the way to the front you couldn't hear it.
 
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you want 30 to 40 hz tones to see if you get anything otherwise the stock head unit is not gonna cut it for your subwoofers. Meaning the signal is completely non existent and all you are doing is boosting up a garbage signal. LC7I has caused more issues on this forum than solved because its not the product's fault, its how head units are setup nowadays audiowise. They all have a built in high pass crossover to protect the shitty low quality stock speakers along with built in EQ to make the shitty speakers sound better. However when you use that EQ'd signal to aftermarket speakers that require a flat signal, you gonna get extremely mixed results, most of the times below average.
 
Thanks guys, very helpful. Today I'm gonna be wiring up the LEDs inside and doing the carpeting on my balcony since weather is an issue, hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to run all the wiring and replace speakers and tweeters if it doesn't rain or that'll wait till next weekend.
 
Play a 60 hz test tone over your speakers and listen as you use the fader to eliminate the front and then the back. The speakers which play the tone loudest are the ones you want to tap for a subwoofer. If you go with speakers which barely play that tone you'll have an uphill battle to get the bass to sound good using those as inputs for the LOC.

Example, my stock front door speakers play loud and clear 60hz, but when I use the fader to eliminate the front speakers I basically can't hear the tone any more because the rear speakers are "protected" from that tone by the head unit right from the factory. In this scenario I would want to tap only the front speakers, never the rear at least for a subwoofer LOC input.

Another example, in my last car my rear speakers were 6x9 and my door speakers were only 5 1/2" the factory head unit protected the door speaks from low tones in that car and so tapping the rear would make more sense. The 60hz tone appeared only when the rear speakers were included, if you faded all the way to the front you couldn't hear it.

Didnt test which speakers had the better option, but I would still use the wiring before the stock speaker plug and solder into that then run to the input on the lc7i then the output to the amp input then amp output directly to speakers right?
 
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