can you ground second battery on frame?

again, yellowtop is not going to fit under my hood and from my understanding deep cycle batteries are not to be used for cranking a vehicle. thats what i am confused about.
Then it doesn't need to be a yellowtop. A kinetik in the front and back would be fine.

What kind of car?

seems to me these people whose buisness depends on this would know MORE than you and agree with what i'm saying. hope you have small feet cause they're now in your mouth.
Seems to me that you like to continuously make an *** out of yourself even after others have proven you wrong on multiple occasions?

People whose business depends on it? Where?

Ask any serious competitor or audiophile the best way to ground a high powered audio setup and they will say direct grounding. In reality, the best way to ground would be a combination of chassis grounds and 1/0 directly to the front battery and alternator.

Trying to pull a lot of current through thin, corroded sheet metal, steel frames, and lots of welds sounds like the better solution to you?

How about you run a high powered setup with dinky chassis grounds and get back to me.

But for the sake of bringing this argument to an end, for the average joe schmo out there with 1000-2000 watts, a chassis ground will be just fine, especially if they have a battery in the back near the amplifier. It's when you start getting into the 3000, 4000, 5000+ range that things can start to go bad quickly.

 
Then it doesn't need to be a yellowtop. A kinetik in the front and back would be fine.
What kind of car?

Seems to me that you like to continuously make an *** out of yourself even after others have proven you wrong on multiple occasions?

People whose business depends on it? Where?

Ask any serious competitor or audiophile the best way to ground a high powered audio setup and they will say direct grounding. In reality, the best way to ground would be a combination of chassis grounds and 1/0 directly to the front battery and alternator.

Trying to pull a lot of current through thin, corroded sheet metal, steel frames, and lots of welds sounds like the better solution to you?

How about you run a high powered setup with dinky chassis grounds and get back to me.
it is a 96 dodge neon. not sure what size the stock battery is (amp/cc wise) that is what I am confused about. I mean can I use a kinetic battery up front so long as it matches my current battery? how do I determine what battery to use for cranking my car? that is my dilemma. I don't mind buying a kinetic for up front, and possibly having to buy one for the back.. but i don't want to buy a kinetic under the hood and my **** car not crank lol. see what i am saying. im los tno this one

 
Then it doesn't need to be a yellowtop. A kinetik in the front and back would be fine.
What kind of car?

Seems to me that you like to continuously make an *** out of yourself even after others have proven you wrong on multiple occasions?

People whose business depends on it? Where?

Ask any serious competitor or audiophile the best way to ground a high powered audio setup and they will say direct grounding. In reality, the best way to ground would be a combination of chassis grounds and 1/0 directly to the front battery and alternator.

Trying to pull a lot of current through thin, corroded sheet metal, steel frames, and lots of welds sounds like the better solution to you?

How about you run a high powered setup with dinky chassis grounds and get back to me.
STREET WIRES see the wires in the name?? you think maybe they would be pushing your stupid idea if it were true as they could sell more of it that way. They choose to be honest though and admit that a frame ground is actually better. Hope you haven't stepped in dog crap lately. cause again your feet are now both in your mouth.

 
it is a 96 dodge neon. not sure what size the stock battery is (amp/cc wise) that is what I am confused about. I mean can I use a kinetic battery up front so long as it matches my current battery? how do I determine what battery to use for cranking my car? that is my dilemma. I don't mind buying a kinetic for up front, and possibly having to buy one for the back.. but i don't want to buy a kinetic under the hood and my **** car not crank lol. see what i am saying. im los tno this one
Tons and tons of people use kinetiks for their starting battery. You won't have a problem at all. I use two yellowtops in my truck which are the same type of batteries as kinetiks and my truck always starts. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
STREET WIRES see the wires in the name?? you think maybe they would be pushing your stupid idea if it were true as they could sell more of it that way. They choose to be honest though and admit that a frame ground is actually better. Hope you haven't stepped in dog crap lately. cause again your feet are now both in your mouth.
Using the same stupid line again, have some originality at least.

I edited my post after you quoted, so here it is again for you:

But for the sake of bringing this argument to an end, for the average joe schmo out there with 1000-2000 watts, a chassis ground will be just fine, especially if they have a battery in the back near the amplifier. It's when you start getting into the 3000, 4000, 5000+ range that things can start to go bad quickly.

 
STREET WIRES see the wires in the name?? you think maybe they would be pushing your stupid idea if it were true as they could sell more of it that way. They choose to be honest though and admit that a frame ground is actually better. Hope you haven't stepped in dog crap lately. cause again your feet are now both in your mouth.
You believe everything you read in a magazine?

2783833358_6c6fa46fae.jpg


 
The truth of the matter is that people will write whatever they want to make the sale. Whether it's true or not.
And the real truth of the matter is, Tommy is correct. It has been documented/proven many times.

You should actually open up your mind and attempt to learn something new, instead of blocking out any potentially useful info.
yea, cause when you're selling wire you want to tell people it isn't needed. now you and that ugly car go get a clue and stop nut hugging BOY

 
yea, cause when you're selling wire you want to tell people it isn't needed. now you and that ugly car go get a clue and stop nut hugging BOY
No, they'd rather sell you a complete amp kit. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Higher margins ftw.

 
yea, cause when you're selling wire you want to tell people it isn't needed. now you and that ugly car go get a clue and stop nut hugging BOY
Not nut hugging, I just actually happen to know a little something on the subject.

Which is more than I can say for you...

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

"BOY!"

 
i understand that you guys refuse to admit you're wrong. seeing as your egos would take a hit. either way you're wrong though. now go make yourself feel better by telling people 100 times you were right and i was wrong. but remember, in all REALITY i am right and you are terribly terribly wrong. LOL hows it feel? seriously knowing you wasted all that time and money. wish i had a picture of you guys i bet you're all crying like the little bitches that you are.

 
i understand that you guys refuse to admit you're wrong. seeing as your egos would take a hit. either way you're wrong though. now go make yourself feel better by telling people 100 times you were right and i was wrong. but remember, in all REALITY i am right and you are terribly terribly wrong. LOL hows it feel? seriously knowing you wasted all that time and money. wish i had a picture of you guys i bet you're all crying like the little bitches that you are.
WTF is up your *** man?

Have you even owned a stereo? More than 1000 watts? More than 2000 watts?

The guys that benefit the most from minimizing voltage drops will tell you over and over that direct runs to the alternator and battery is the best way to go.

I've been competing in multiple organizations for 4 years and I have yet to see any high powered vehicle rely strictly on chassis grounds. It's a proven fact that in many cars that a direct 1/0 ground to the front battery and alternator can provide less voltage drops during burps and periods of constant current draw.

A magazine article stating that a chassis ground on ONE vehicle is better proves absolutely nothing. What about older vehicles with rusted up chassis' and welds? Unibodies?

But alas, there's no convincing you that you're wrong. You got owned in the stetsom thread earlier and tucked your tail between your legs and ran. Now that ONE person with ONE biased article vaguely supported your point, you feel as though you are correct and everyone is wrong.

 
i understand that you guys refuse to admit you're wrong. seeing as your egos would take a hit. either way you're wrong though. now go make yourself feel better by telling people 100 times you were right and i was wrong. but remember, in all REALITY i am right and you are terribly terribly wrong. LOL hows it feel? seriously knowing you wasted all that time and money. wish i had a picture of you guys i bet you're all crying like the little bitches that you are.
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif

m_5d375c900bfe4a2193566de802d9bb6b.jpg


No crying.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 
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