can you ground second battery on frame?

also another question. i will need total 3 in line fuses. one for the big 3, (pos to alt) and 2 for the power cable from front to back battery. my ? is for 1/0 gauge wire and the rms I am running.. what fuses will I need? I mean I see some in line fuses now that are included with 150 A fuse. this enough? I heard 250 amp is recommended. thanks for the responses fellas

EDIT: you guys kick *** btw. I have learned a lot of useful things/found a lot of good deals on this site. **** glad I joined

 
also another question. i will need total 3 in line fuses. one for the big 3, (pos to alt) and 2 for the power cable from front to back battery. my ? is for 1/0 gauge wire and the rms I am running.. what fuses will I need? I mean I see some in line fuses now that are included with 150 A fuse. this enough? I heard 250 amp is recommended. thanks for the responses fellasEDIT: you guys kick *** btw. I have learned a lot of useful things/found a lot of good deals on this site. **** glad I joined
For a 1500 watt amp, a 150 or 200 amp fuse will be just fine. I wouldn't go any higher than that though.

 
not to beat a dead horse but i had to leave for a min and wanted to point something out

ok everyone kept sayin shit bout the battery being under the hood close to shit so what about a majority of the newer cars where the battery is in the trunk and its grounded to the frame in the back???so are you sayin chevy dont know what they are doing.

im just asking not tryin to start a argument

 
not to beat a dead horse but i had to leave for a min and wanted to point something out
ok everyone kept sayin shit bout the battery being under the hood close to shit so what about a majority of the newer cars where the battery is in the trunk and its grounded to the frame in the back???so are you sayin chevy dont know what they are doing.

im just asking not tryin to start a argument
As was stated earlier on, the cars electrical system does not draw as much current as a decent sized stereo system. So grounding through the chassis is acceptable. I even said that most 1000-2000 watt setups are fine to ground through the chassis, it's only when you get into BIG setups that drawing through the chassis becomes less efficient than running some 1/0.

 
As was stated earlier on, the cars electrical system does not draw as much current as a decent sized stereo system. So grounding through the chassis is acceptable. I even said that most 1000-2000 watt setups are fine to ground through the chassis, it's only when you get into BIG setups that drawing through the chassis becomes less efficient than running some 1/0.

yea i guess that makes since

 
A cars electrical system draw is minimal compared to car audio systems.
Plus, as already stated, all the electronics (including the fuseblock) are all in the FRONT of the vehicle, close to the battery and alternator.

The longer the conductor, the less current it can handle. So while the frame up front could handle a decent amount of current because of the close promixity to the alternator and battery, trying to draw the same amount of current through the entire length of the frame WILL cause issues with larger setups.

Please don't make an *** out of yourself for the 2nd time today.

And to the OP, grounding to the chassis will be fine for your application, HOWEVER I do think you should get a larger battery for the back and replace the one up front if you haven't already.

It's best to have two batteries that are matching in type and size. Mixing a normal lead acid battery with a sealed AGM like a kinetik is a no no in most cases.

Also, don't forget to fuse the power wire going to the rear battery ON BOTH ENDS. One fuse close to the front battery, then another fuse before the rear battery.
whoa whoa, i asked this question in a thread not long ago and i was told by the majority that mixing a lead acid batt up front with a sealed agm would not pose a problem?

 
whoa whoa, i asked this question in a thread not long ago and i was told by the majority that mixing a lead acid batt up front with a sealed agm would not pose a problem?
Notice I said in most cases.

Scottie J has commented on this topic before, and he's an electrical engineer who works for powermaster. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

However, I know plenty of people who have mixed them and not had a problem. But I do believe that it supposedly shortens the life of the batteries because of different internal resistances, discharge rates, etc.

But to be fair, I do have a lead acid battery hooked up with my optimas right now. No problems yet, but it is recommended to have all the batteries be the same style.

 
and this is a QUESTION so don't kill me for it, i drive a full size pick up with a full box frame... i would "think" that even though copper is a better conductor than the steel in the frame, that the cross sectional area of the frame is far greater than the cross sectional area of a piece of 1/0... so in my case wouldn't they kind of cancel eachother out?

 
Notice I said in most cases.
Scottie J has commented on this topic before, and he's an electrical engineer who works for powermaster. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

However, I know plenty of people who have mixed them and not had a problem. But I do believe that it supposedly shortens the life of the batteries because of different internal resistances, discharge rates, etc.

But to be fair, I do have a lead acid battery hooked up with my optimas right now. No problems yet, but it is recommended to have all the batteries be the same style.
oh ok, the way you said it was a "no no" im thinking oh great im going to have batteries exloding going down the road

 
and this is a QUESTION so don't kill me for it, i drive a full size pick up with a full box frame... i would "think" that even though copper is a better conductor than the steel in the frame, that the cross sectional area of the frame is far greater than the cross sectional area of a piece of 1/0... so in my case wouldn't they kind of cancel eachother out?
See, there in lies the problem of making the claim that the frame is "always" better like that article did.

In some vehicles, sure the frame could be a VERY good conductor. However, you have to think about the material itself.

Steel right off the bat isn't a good conductor of electricity. Tie into that corrosion, lots of welds, and undersized factory connections and you can see how a frame can lose some of it's conductivity.

The bottom line is that it really depends on the vehicle, your electrical system, and your systems current draw.

 
i understand that you guys refuse to admit you're wrong. seeing as your egos would take a hit. either way you're wrong though. now go make yourself feel better by telling people 100 times you were right and i was wrong. but remember, in all REALITY i am right and you are terribly terribly wrong. LOL hows it feel? seriously knowing you wasted all that time and money. wish i had a picture of you guys i bet you're all crying like the little bitches that you are.
So basically the only thing you have to say to validate yourself is that you're right and we're not? Do you have any experiences that suggest what you're saying is correct?

 
See, there in lies the problem of making the claim that the frame is "always" better like that article did.
In some vehicles, sure the frame could be a VERY good conductor. However, you have to think about the material itself.

Steel right off the bat isn't a good conductor of electricity. Tie into that corrosion, lots of welds, and undersized factory connections and you can see how a frame can lose some of it's conductivity.

The bottom line is that it really depends on the vehicle, your electrical system, and your systems current draw.
well i mean like in my case, its a dodge 1500 with a pretty beefy frame although ill admit i obviously don't know the composition of the metal in it. my battery up front is grounded to the frame, to the engine bay itself (the body, or what i would call the chassis since i have a real frame) and to the engine block. my battery in the back would also be grounded directly to the frame (the real one) there shouldn't be any welds in a solid frame should there? i could be completely wrong im just curious.

and on a side note, my amp is grounded to the bolts that hold the seats to the cab, would this be considered a bad ground? bolts are huge and i figure it should actually be like 4 ground points in 1 because the ground cable is between the bolt and the frame of the seat(which is pressed against the floor) so the negative should actually run through the frame of the seat through all 4 bolts to the floor

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

About this thread

vandiar2

10+ year member
Senior VIP Member
Thread starter
vandiar2
Joined
Location
monroe, la
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
106
Views
9,297
Last reply date
Last reply from
Pioneer~Saturn
IMG_20260506_140749.jpg

74eldiablo

    May 22, 2026
  • 0
  • 0
design.jpeg

WNCTracker

    May 22, 2026
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top