can you ground second battery on frame?

also circumstantial. unless you intend on running the system with the car OFF you do not need to isolate. it can be done either way, but it adds resistance
Beat me to it. If you are just trying to beef up your electrical a little, I wouldn't put one in.

copper conductivity > steel. That is a fact.
A vehicle chassis/frame is a piss poor ground compared to a piece of 1/0 copper wire.
indeed. Wasn't there a big *** thread on this earlyer in the year?

 
Beat me to it. If you are just trying to beef up your electrical a little, I wouldn't put one in.


indeed. Wasn't there a big *** thread on this earlyer in the year?

probably.

according to this school website

http://www.myhrsb.ca/Functions/Program/Static/Curriculum/eng/science/9/SupplementaryPages/MetalsElectConductivity.htm

depending on the alloy of the steel, copper is somewhere between 6-30x better conductor of electricity than steel.

You also have to factor in the amount of steel which is normally alot more than you have in a single strand of copper; however, the welds and other connections counteract that large surface area.

 
also circumstantial. unless you intend on running the system with the car OFF you do not need to isolate. it can be done either way, but it adds resistance
this was my second question, thanks for answering it. no i will not be running my system with my car off.. so i don't need an isolator correct? also lets just say for instance I ran an hc 800, should this suffice coupled with the big 3 and stock battery?

 
this was my second question, thanks for answering it. no i will not be running my system with my car off.. so i don't need an isolator correct? also lets just say for instance I ran an hc 800, should this suffice coupled with the big 3 and stock battery?
what amp/s are u running?

 
probably.
according to this school website

http://www.myhrsb.ca/Functions/Program/Static/Curriculum/eng/science/9/SupplementaryPages/MetalsElectConductivity.htm

depending on the alloy of the steel, copper is somewhere between 6-30x better conductor of electricity than steel.

You also have to factor in the amount of steel which is normally alot more than you have in a single strand of copper; however, the welds and other connections counteract that large surface area.
if it is a box frame and the front battery is grounded to the frame, as well as the rear battery it SHOULD be less. but who the fck cares about .1 ohm on a power wire?

 
if u you do a search, but i dunno what for lol

i asked if u should run 1/0 grd to connect my batts or to grd to chassis. of course i just ran 1/0 cuz i felt it would better, i just wanted to see what ppl would say

 
if it is a box frame and the front battery is grounded to the frame, as well as the rear battery it SHOULD be less. but who the fck cares about .1 ohm on a power wire?
There are alot of ifs in that statement. Most cars today don't have a box frame, so you can't assume his does. Most cars today have unibody with crappy welds that make conductivity ****.

also chassis =/= frame as noah pointed out.

if you have a ground to the chassis it is connected to the frame using some sort of mechanical fastener which is far from a good electrical connection, then in order to get to the amp it has to go through 2 more mechanical fasteners. As I stated, the poor connections negate the larger surface area. That leaves conductivity to stand on its own, which makes 1/0 the far better solution, if you really care about the least resistance.

But your right, it isn't gonna matter in a daily system. Some dbdraggers on the other had swear by it. They even add ground wires to the front battery if the capacity of 1 wire exceeds like 70 amps...

 
what amp/s are u running?
trying to decide. whatever the case (sundown, hi fonics something that canrun 1500 rms at 1 ohm). and I also hae a 4 channel kenwood, think each channel is rated at 35-40 rms a piece. so total, about 1660-1700 rms. about to get the amp, just trying to be prepared.

 
well again here is what I plan on doing. big 3. running a 1/0 wire from the stock battery to the trunk. using a second battery as the distro. grounding that battery to the frame... using 1/0. again if i had something like an hc 800 and used that as my distro, i should have little voltage drops running 1660+rms.... right?

 
trying to decide. whatever the case (sundown, hi fonics something that canrun 1500 rms at 1 ohm). and I also hae a 4 channel kenwood, think each channel is rated at 35-40 rms a piece. so total, about 1660-1700 rms. about to get the amp, just trying to be prepared.
while I agree with what chad just said above you, seeing how much power you are going to run, I'd say go to chassis grounding. If you were going to go into some comps, and use more power, I'd say go strait to the front bat.

 
while I agree with what chad just said above you, seeing how much power you are going to run, I'd say go to chassis grounding. If you were going to go into some comps, and use more power, I'd say go strait to the front bat.
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/word.gif.64b12e39f936af3b4fff38a1c0bd0244.gif

and chad there is only 1 "if" in that statement //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
i guess since you cant ground the back batt to the frame and get a good ground you also cant ground the front batt to the frame and get a good ground. so where exactly do you people that say you gotta run the back ground off the front batts neg suggest the ground should go? maybe drive a copper pipe into the ground and connect to that? i mean cars have been around how long? and they've apparently been doing it wrong the whole time. tell me exactly how the fuck the frame in the back is different than the frame in the front??

 
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