can you ground second battery on frame?

well i mean like in my case, its a dodge 1500 with a pretty beefy frame although ill admit i obviously don't know the composition of the metal in it. my battery up front is grounded to the frame, to the engine bay itself (the body, or what i would call the chassis since i have a real frame) and to the engine block. my battery in the back would also be grounded directly to the frame (the real one) there shouldn't be any welds in a solid frame should there? i could be completely wrong im just curious.
and on a side note, my amp is grounded to the bolts that hold the seats to the cab, would this be considered a bad ground? bolts are huge lol
What kind of amp(s) are you running?

In the frame rails itself there aren't any welds, but look at where your amp is grounded. The seat are bolted to the cab, the cab is bolted to the frame, which is bolted to everything that your grounds are attached to. There is no solid piece of metal that goes directly from your ground spot to the battery.

All those spots add up to resistance.

Though I'm sure for your setup that ground is sufficient.

 
lawl at what this thread has become. tommy, how much power are you running now a days? i bet mr blazen hasn't come anywere near what you run, or what you have seen. so, with that being said, i'm going to belive anything tommy say's LONG before you. i just might have to add another person to my ignore list. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 
lawl at what this thread has become. tommy, how much power are you running now a days? i bet mr blazen hasn't come anywere near what you run, or what you have seen. so, with that being said, i'm going to belive anything tommy say's LONG before you. i just might have to add another person to my ignore list. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif
I only run my zx2500 for the time being. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

But with that said, I found it easier to just run some extra 1/0 to my amp ground than trying to get a frame ground. My truck is short enough for it to not really make a difference.

I would NEVER do a cab ground in my truck though simply because I know how thin my sheetmetal is and how rusted up my truck is. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

Not to mention the poor condition of the body mounts which is where a majority of the current would normally flow through.

 
What kind of amp(s) are you running?
In the frame rails itself there aren't any welds, but look at where your amp is grounded. The seat are bolted to the cab, the cab is bolted to the frame, which is bolted to everything that your grounds are attached to. There is no solid piece of metal that goes directly from your ground spot to the battery.

All those spots add up to resistance.

Though I'm sure for your setup that ground is sufficient.
yeah im only running about 1800watts, and the stock truck battery is pretty beefy. but im gonig to add an sv70 or a hc1400, yellow top, intim, whatever i can get my hands on. the second battery will sit in a battery box i built into the side of the enclosure behind the seat (standard cab dodge, lots of room) and the amp is mounted under the seat. i would ground the second battery directly to the frame through the floor and then ground my amp directly off the battery (all of about 3ft away)

one good thing about a standard cab truck is i've gotten away with using 4 guage (i had a 500ft spool of it, didn't want to go to waste) because the power wire from the batt under the hood to amp is all of 5 ft long, the ground wire is all of 8 inches long, big 3 is all done in 4 guage and i've got 13.8 volts with system full tilt on a bxi2006

 
well i mean like in my case, its a dodge 1500 with a pretty beefy frame although ill admit i obviously don't know the composition of the metal in it. my battery up front is grounded to the frame, to the engine bay itself (the body, or what i would call the chassis since i have a real frame) and to the engine block. my battery in the back would also be grounded directly to the frame (the real one) there shouldn't be any welds in a solid frame should there? i could be completely wrong im just curious.
and on a side note, my amp is grounded to the bolts that hold the seats to the cab, would this be considered a bad ground? bolts are huge and i figure it should actually be like 4 ground points in 1 because the ground cable is between the bolt and the frame of the seat(which is pressed against the floor) so the negative should actually run through the frame of the seat through all 4 bolts to the floor
how much power are you planing on running? how often do you plan on playing it hard? see, these are thing you also got to think about too. i had a few pretty beefy amps, but i really never used them anywere near they're full potental. (sp?) so, i was still fine with going to the frame. like both tommy and I said, if you are staying in the 2k or less, more often than not, going to the frame / chassis will be fine as long as you can get all the paint off to get a good conection to the ground.

 
how much power are you planing on running? how often do you plan on playing it hard? see, these are thing you also got to think about too. i had a few pretty beefy amps, but i really never used them anywere near they're full potental. (sp?) so, i was still fine with going to the frame. like both tommy and I said, if you are staying in the 2k or less, more often than not, going to the frame / chassis will be fine as long as you can get all the paint off to get a good conection to the ground.
yeah thats true too, i actually hardly ever play full tilt, 1800w to hdc in a standard cab truck is painful and im prone to migraines lol but i would like to do some of my local shows (namely to show people that kicker, rockford, and jl audio are not the only brands that exist) and im curious what kinda of numbers im hitting, but thats like a 3-4 times a year thing.

 
Resting voltage isn't too concerning to me.
It's the voltage drop when the amp is full tilt. Also, a better ground lets the amplifier produce power more easily/efficiently.
oh i know but i was more or less just checking for resistance in my ground, since were on the topic of chassis vs battery for grounding. in my particular case i don't seem to have a whole lot of resistance, but that could be completely different at full tilt. i just don't think the neighbors would appreciate a 45hz test tone full tilt at 11:30 at night lol

 
i understand that you guys refuse to admit you're wrong. seeing as your egos would take a hit. either way you're wrong though. now go make yourself feel better by telling people 100 times you were right and i was wrong. but remember, in all REALITY i am right and you are terribly terribly wrong. LOL hows it feel? seriously knowing you wasted all that time and money. wish i had a picture of you guys i bet you're all crying like the little bitches that you are.
You should really stop being such a dirty cunt //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 
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