Can I wire a single cap to two amps without a power block or ground block?

[acribb]

I have a 2004 BMW 530i that has a 2 amp setup. I noticed that the current draw is VERY slightly dimming my tail lights when the bass hits hard. I think a capacitor would easily take care of this. I don't want to spend a lot and just want the capacitor. I currently have my bi amp system wired directly to the battery (which is thankfully in the trunk). Since I am not trying to show the system, do I really need a ground block or power distribution block? Is the one fuse I have in the diagram below enough, or should I add an extra fuse on each 8 gauge run from the cap to the amps? Thanks for any advice...

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[J31Rob 5,000+ posts]

Lose the cap, it'll just hurt you. Get an extra battery.

 

[tRidiot 10+ year member]

You need a fuse anytime you change the wire size. You really need a fuse block, they're like $20, man.

 

[rollerdj 10+ year member]

Lose the cap, it'll just hurt you. Get an extra battery.

+1, or try the big 3 first. i would do that, then if that doesn't help, get another bat.

 

[rollerdj 10+ year member]

wait. did i read that right? u're gonna run the second amp to the factory subs... HA, prepare to get flamed.

 

[rollerdj 10+ year member]

IMO, ditch the factory subs. they arn't worth the trouble.

 

[SRim23 5,000+ posts]

Lose the cap, it'll just hurt you. Get an extra battery.

you guys want him to spend 2-300 bucks on a new battery when hes only running 500 watts? that sounds pretty stupid to me.....

either keep the cap or do the big 3 that everyone is talking about.....or you could just ditch the factory subs and just run the 12w3......

might want to get check grounds make sure they are good and see if you have to replace your battery anways....seems to me a bmw would have a stronger alternator.......

 

[acribb]

I replaced the factory amp which drives the factory subs underneath the power seats with the Profile. You can't really replace the factory drivers as they are under the seats and of course a special shallow size. The sound is many times better with my aftermarket cheap Profile amp driving them.

With that said, will my proposed setup in the diagram work? Do I need a fuse block, power block, ground block? Since we're not talking a lot of wattage here, please let me know if the 1.2 cap will work with both my amps. Why would it not be a good idea to install the cap? How could this 'hurt' me?

If I do need the power block, fuse block, and or ground block, can you recommend any cheap places on the web?

 

[Skip01 5,000+ posts]

I wouldnt do any electrical upgrades for that lil amount of power...if ya want get a better battery up front and that should easily cover it

But this is just me...good luck

 

[acribb]

The battery is in the trunk and it says 850A on it which I assume is 850 amps.

The alternator is a 150 amps.

 

[SVTLightning01 10+ year member]

Your alt might be crapping out and/or have a weak battery. I drive a 325ci with a 140A alt w/2000watts and have no dimming/power issues.

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

To answer your question, yes you can.

You are essentially using your capacitor as a distribution block.

nG

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

You need a fuse anytime you change the wire size. You really need a fuse block, they're like $20, man.

+1, or try the big 3 first. i would do that, then if that doesn't help, get another bat.

IMO, ditch the factory subs. they arn't worth the trouble.

all correct

 

[Newport 10+ year member]

you guys all ignored his question tho.

 

[tRidiot 10+ year member]

you guys all ignored his question tho.

No I didn't.... if the wire size changes, then he needs to fuse it... I mentioned a fuse block as it's much easier and likely cheaper than 2 new inline fuse holders for his dual 8g wires.

I do find it hard to believe someone's driving a 5-series BMW and is too cheap to properly protect his investment.

To the OP... search in the OT forum for the burned-out VW and you'll see what happens when you try to take short-cuts. :S