keep_hope_alive
Premium Member
Acoustics Engineer
Here's why you need to know if the HU output is balanced (I.e. bridged):
Most standard EQ's have unbalanced inouts and outputs and will treat the shield as ground, which are tied together in the EQ. If the HU output is balanced then the EQ will essentially short the HU "negative" speaker wires. If you go this route, I recommend a LOC between the HU and the EQ to ensure you don't have an impedance load issue.
The output of the EQ will be lower than that of the HU, and the output impedance of the EQ will be different than that of the HU. You care about the relationship of output impedance to input impedance since that determines voltage gain (how much signal is transferred). We don't even know the input impedance of the factory amp. We can assume the input impedance of the EQ is 10k ohm and the output impedance is 50 ohm as those are typical values for line level gear. The manual will tell you.
A JBL MS-8 is the correct solution for your needs/expectations. If you want to introduce an EQ you should also bypass the factory amp with an aftermarket amp. The MS-8 gives you both and is specifically made to sum the factory amp outputs, balanced or unbalanced, then power speakers.
When it comes to the Bose system, I do not recommend getting between the HU and factory amp unless you can somehow get access to a schematic of that system so you know what each wire does and what load it sees. I also don't recommend powering the Bose speakers from an MS-8 without first verifying their impedance. I wouldn't expect you will improve on a Bose system without a full upgrade.
The math by dragonrage appears to be based on guesses and generalities and not based on actual data for your specific vehicles. Use it with caution. No offense dude, but recommendations like this should be more accurate as he can damage his gear.
Most standard EQ's have unbalanced inouts and outputs and will treat the shield as ground, which are tied together in the EQ. If the HU output is balanced then the EQ will essentially short the HU "negative" speaker wires. If you go this route, I recommend a LOC between the HU and the EQ to ensure you don't have an impedance load issue.
The output of the EQ will be lower than that of the HU, and the output impedance of the EQ will be different than that of the HU. You care about the relationship of output impedance to input impedance since that determines voltage gain (how much signal is transferred). We don't even know the input impedance of the factory amp. We can assume the input impedance of the EQ is 10k ohm and the output impedance is 50 ohm as those are typical values for line level gear. The manual will tell you.
A JBL MS-8 is the correct solution for your needs/expectations. If you want to introduce an EQ you should also bypass the factory amp with an aftermarket amp. The MS-8 gives you both and is specifically made to sum the factory amp outputs, balanced or unbalanced, then power speakers.
When it comes to the Bose system, I do not recommend getting between the HU and factory amp unless you can somehow get access to a schematic of that system so you know what each wire does and what load it sees. I also don't recommend powering the Bose speakers from an MS-8 without first verifying their impedance. I wouldn't expect you will improve on a Bose system without a full upgrade.
The math by dragonrage appears to be based on guesses and generalities and not based on actual data for your specific vehicles. Use it with caution. No offense dude, but recommendations like this should be more accurate as he can damage his gear.
