Buying car sub woofers and amplifiers.

This guide is to aid you in your search for car sub woofers and amplifiers. So many people jump right into car audio without really knowing much about it. These people can get burned by over priced equipment, blown equipment due to improper installation, and purchasing of subs and amplifiers that just do not work together.

So lets start with the basics:

Most people looking for sub woofers and amplifiers are solely looking to add BIG BASS to their vehicles.

Lets talk about the types of sub woofers:

I talk about RMS often, RMS is a technical term referring to the continuous amount of wattage a sub can handle. When shopping for subs, DO NOT look at PEAK power, its a stupid marketing/sales aspect of a sub. Apparently PEAK is how much power a sub can handle if the power peaks, such as a kick drum hitting, etc. Do not factor PEAK power into anything, always know the RMS, if you were to hook up a 1000 watt RMS amp to a 1000 WATT PEAK sub, it would blow after a day, maybe sooner.

...read the full guide with pics here

 
Everyone already knows this.

And the people that dont make new threads anyway, we cant even stop them....

EDIT: I took a look at the article, rofl.

8 inch woofer - Putting these in a trunk would be a waste of money, you'd barely hear them!

Most 8's will not be able to handle low frequencies, 40 Hrtz or below I believe

I could go on about this shit all day:

A 800 watts RMS sub is an 800 watt RMS sub, brand doesn't matter

 
Are you this person? ---->John Castilano

If so - Mr Castilano......some of the statements found in your little "guide" are pretty ludicrous...

Car audio subwoofers are very different than subwoofers for home audio.
Oh??
They are technically supposed to be able to handle all frequencies, though they really can't.
So the freqency response statistic which accompanies the rest of the specs in the manual for any speaker is a meaningless number to you??
I once had a 12 and had set the crossover to what I thought was 60 Hrtz, I later found out after it blew 30 days after the purchase date that I had incorrectly set it to about 90 Hrtz. Only 30 Hrtz higher from a safe setting of 60 Hrtz and it limited my woofer to a 30 day lifespan !
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gifI'd wager your crossover setting had little, if anything, to do with that sub's premature demise...

Subs can have 1 or 2 voice coils on them. Most have one, though you should think of a dual voice coil sub as two in one shell and they will have two sets of terminals on them, one for each voice coil.
Some have 4 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif
If the 2 channel amplifier puts out 100 WATTS RMS a channel at 4 ohm stereo, you could hook each sub to a channel, but because each channel is its own device, you'd have 8ohms on one and 8 ohms on another resulting in half the power, so 50 watts RMS to each sub. This is no good. So hooking them to the amplifier bridged(combining the amp into one channel) will double the power, so the amp would put out 200 WATTS RMS at 4 ohm mono.
Are you aware of a 2ch amp that outputs 100w RMS per channel @ 4 Ohms that also only outputs 200w when in mono bridged configuration?I can't think of one...

Well, with the possible exception of the 2-channel Slash-series JL amps...

A 800 watts RMS sub is an 800 watt RMS sub, brand doesn't matter.
So my continual sending of over 600w into my single 12" (which is factory rated to be a 600w RMS subwoofer) should be impossible, eh?
Tell that to the amp I'm driving it with which easily exceeds its 750w @ 2 Ohms output rating...

There are other pearls of wisdom contained within but those are a few that stood out to me as I skimmed through....

Have a nice day as you perpetuate a vast amount of misinformation.

 
"I WILL TELL YOU A SECRET!!! Car audio subwoofers are very different than subwoofers for home audio. They are technically supposed to be able to handle all frequencies, though they really can't. If you ran a car woofer with a full frequency range going to it, the voice coil(which are pathetic in car audio) will overheat and melt, they are just not able to handle high frequencies."

Why do people who know jack shit decide they need to write a 'guide'? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

Hillarious.

 
psssssssssssst....

I will tell you a secret:

Car audio subs can be and are similar to HT subs:fyi:

here is an example:

Eclipse makes an aluminum coned car audio sub:

sw9152pic.jpg


My HT sub also has an aluminum coned sub:

EP500BlackGrilleOff2.jpg


driver12.jpg


GO FISH!

 
That was hilarious. My favorite part was the crossover part destroying his sub because it was playing up to 90hz! Amazing! Well that and that all subs are equal as long as they have the same power handling and nominal impedance!

 
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