Burning smell with EVERY subwoofer I seem to use? Brand new L7 now.

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

No, you used the wrong product for the application.

This ^

Check out http://www.soundeadenershowdown.com for info on how to properly deaden next time and spend 1/6th as much.

Yes, you need to turn down the line driver to 4 or 5 volts, then use a DMM to properly match your gains to 750w. The position of the gain knob on the amp does not matter in the least.

Yes, you need to do the Big 3 upgrade.

No, you don't need to change to 1/0 wiring. True 4 gauge is typically rated for 150a.

Yes, you should rewire your sub with 12 gauge or bigger wiring.

Yes, you should get a better box built. I am sorry you've been misinformed into thinking the boxes from manufacturers are actually built to make the subs sound good. They do not take into factor the user's goals, vehicle, music taste, or woofer positioning.

Yes, you should keep an open mind and browse around the forums a bit before making other purchases.

No, You shouldn't have paid that much for that sub or that amp.

Yes, half of the price you paid for that sub and amp was for the name on it.

I'm betting you've never sat in a real SQ car that has this level of deadening. Totally worth the time/effort/money if you have it. Really at a point money spent in deadener gives you more effective (percieved) output than more money dumped into equipment.

Yea, $3k spent on PROPERLY deadener a vehicle (especially as noisy of one as that) would have been incredible. But all he did was buy a ton of overpriced deadener and put 3 layers of it all over the car. No CCF. No MLV. :\

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

I'm betting you've never sat in a real SQ car that has this level of deadening. Totally worth the time/effort/money if you have it. Really at a point money spent in deadener gives you more effective (percieved) output than more money dumped into equipment.

I have but they where not running kappas. I think it was K2s or the top level mille. Full hushmat treatmet also.

 

[rpaulg87 10+ year member]

I'm betting you've never sat in a real SQ car that has this level of deadening. Totally worth the time/effort/money if you have it. Really at a point money spent in deadener gives you more effective (percieved) output than more money dumped into equipment.

I have...I just went crazy with the FJ, My buddy actually had a FJ too and did the deadner but he used a different brand..can't remember the name, he had FOCAL K2p's components and what not though and DUAL MTX 9500's which were just... horrifically loud, 2x JL 1000's and blah blah, of course sound staging in the FJ isn't the best

I guess that's one reason MY sub dosent' seem as loud, it's in the trunk...it would sound far louder in the FJ, right?

 

[TeamDropZone 10+ year member]

Seven hundred square feet? Do you drive an airplane?

I was thinking the same thing.. But you really need to spend sum time on the site, looking at install techniques, woofers, amps, etc before making your next decision. By simply setting your gains properly, building the right enclosure(basically the opposite of the one you currently have), and doing minor electrical upgrades you'll see a pretty significant difference in output than you seem to be getting now. The ZX amps are pretty decent amps and the L7s have potential(much better can be found for the $$, but you already bought it), so with a little time and effort you should see a big difference.

 

[rpaulg87 10+ year member]

I was thinking the same thing.. But you really need to spend sum time on the site, looking at install techniques, woofers, amps, etc before making your next decision. By simply setting your gains properly, building the right enclosure(basically the opposite of the one you currently have), and doing minor electrical upgrades you'll see a pretty significant difference in output than you seem to be getting now. The ZX amps are pretty decent amps and the L7s have potential(much better can be found for the $$, but you already bought it), so with a little time and effort you should see a big difference.

I still don't get how a enclosure specifically made to what my sub requires is viewed to be so bad here...lol

List of L7 specs:

Min Rec Vented Box Volume (CU. Ft., Liters)** 1.75, 49.6

Max Rec Vented Box Volume (CU. Ft., Liters)** 3.25, 92.1

Box specs:

Dimension A (in., cm) 14-11/16, 37.2

Dimension B (in., cm) 18, 45.7

Dimension C (in., cm) 16, 40.6

Dimension D (in., cm) 18-3/4, 47.5

Isn't that well within specs?

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

And we are not talking about MTX, Rockford, or JL.

 

[rpaulg87 10+ year member]

I was thinking the same thing.. But you really need to spend sum time on the site, looking at install techniques, woofers, amps, etc before making your next decision. By simply setting your gains properly, building the right enclosure(basically the opposite of the one you currently have), and doing minor electrical upgrades you'll see a pretty significant difference in output than you seem to be getting now. The ZX amps are pretty decent amps and the L7s have potential(much better can be found for the $$, but you already bought it), so with a little time and effort you should see a big difference.

I still don't get how a enclosure specifically made to what my sub requires is viewed to be so bad here...lol

List of L7 specs:

Min Rec Vented Box Volume (CU. Ft., Liters)** 1.75, 49.6

Max Rec Vented Box Volume (CU. Ft., Liters)** 3.25, 92.1

Box specs:

Dimension A (in., cm) 14-11/16, 37.2

Dimension B (in., cm) 18, 45.7

Dimension C (in., cm) 16, 40.6

Dimension D (in., cm) 18-3/4, 47.5

Isn't that well within specs?

 

[rpaulg87 10+ year member]

double post

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

I still don't get how a enclosure specifically made to what my sub requires is viewed to be so bad here...lolList of L7 specs:

Min Rec Vented Box Volume (CU. Ft., Liters)** 1.75, 49.6

Max Rec Vented Box Volume (CU. Ft., Liters)** 3.25, 92.1

Box specs:

Dimension A (in., cm) 14-11/16, 37.2

Dimension B (in., cm) 18, 45.7

Dimension C (in., cm) 16, 40.6

Dimension D (in., cm) 18-3/4, 47.5

Isn't that well within specs?

Square 12s need box the size of a round 15. kicker dont tell you that. Its marketing. You think you are getting more cone area but your really not.

 

[CRP 10+ year member]

Man, let me see if I can help you out here.

First, are you sure the burning smell is coming from the sub? If so, how long and how hard are you playing it before it starts to smell? I doubt very seriously you are smelling glue from the box. You would know. The two smells are completely different, I'm sure I don't have to tell you this.

You can set your gains properly with a Digital Multimeter. There are many articles out there that tell you how to do this, I won't go into it here, just search. Once you do that properly, you will be sure that's not the problem.

If all else fails, I recommend consulting a reputable, professional shop in your area. For an hour or two worth of labor, they will be able to assist. These problems are sometimes easy, sometimes not. In some cases, they may just offer their opinion for free, you never can tell.

I'll help in anyway I can here, its just sometimes difficult without being there.

And by the way, it's your money, spend it how you like. If it makes you happy, that's all that matters.

 

[rpaulg87 10+ year member]

Well the smell I recognize is the same "smell" my TR-75's made when I played them...always. I even went to the shop that I bought them from and we blazed them full volume and he heard zero distortion, and said the smell was just materials in the box or excess glue on the woofer, also felt the "cone" and it was never more than barely warm, like my L7

 

[duanebro 10+ year member]

Amps that can handle a max of 8 volts, when given a 8 volt signal, should have their gain set at the minimum gain in theory. Though I don't think that the gain pot is calibrated on most amps. So the way to see what you are getting out of the amp is to use a meter to measure voltage. This should be done after every preamp and power amp from the source down.

Also if you are hearing more "notes" with the line driver - you have something wrong.

 

[rpaulg87 10+ year member]

Amps that can handle a max of 8 volts, when given a 8 volt signal, should have their gain set at the minimum gain in theory. Though I don't think that the gain pot is calibrated on most amps. So the way to see what you are getting out of the amp is to use a meter to measure voltage. This should be done after every preamp and power amp from the source down.
Also if you are hearing more "notes" with the line driver - you have something wrong.

Not exactly...ACCUBASS is what is actually bringing my "rock" music bass alive, before it didn't really catch it, it's a processor built into the LC2i...much like the Epicenter. All of Audiocontrols stuff has this these days, people buy them as they also "restore" bass LC2i below.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Well the smell I recognize is the same "smell" my TR-75's made when I played them...always. I even went to the shop that I bought them from and we blazed them full volume and he heard zero distortion, and said the smell was just materials in the box or excess glue on the woofer, also felt the "cone" and it was never more than barely warm, like my L7

I wouldnt go back to that shop. Its very hard to hear distortion in sub frequancies.

 

[rpaulg87 10+ year member]

I wouldnt go back to that shop. Its very hard to hear distortion in sub frequancies.

So question, if I went to best buy right now and bought 2x 10 CVR (2ohm) you think it would hit big time louder than this L7? I know it's far more cone space, but I'm talking in general.