Burning smell with EVERY subwoofer I seem to use? Brand new L7 now.

[rpaulg87 10+ year member]

Then get a better sub and amp

Ok, I think you're not exactly grasping what I'm saying, and these comments belittling of the subwoofer I bought and box are getting a wee bit old. I have heard L7's with this amp, and lower powered ones (L5), they rattle the hell out of trunks, with just ONE, if I wire it directly up, it barely thumps more than a 200w STOCK KICKER subwoofer, please enlighten me as to how that is normal? You say get a better sub and amp, I have a great amplifier that is pushing out 930w RMS, and I have a L7, which is known for pure SPL, not SQ, but RATTLEING BASS, and you're telling me to get a new amp and sub? That's some legendary advice.

 

[05trailblazer 10+ year member]

with three hundred more you you of gotten 4 Sa-12s

 

[05trailblazer 10+ year member]

i hate trunk rattling by the way.. if you can hear more trunk than bass then theres a problem there man

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Ok, I think you're not exactly grasping what I'm saying, and these comments belittling of the subwoofer I bought and box are getting a wee bit old. I have heard L7's with this amp, and lower powered ones (L5), they rattle the hell out of trunks, with just ONE, if I wire it directly up, it barely thumps more than a 200w STOCK KICKER subwoofer, please enlighten me as to how that is normal? You say get a better sub and amp, I have a great amplifier that is pushing out 930w RMS, and I have a L7, which is known for pure SPL, not SQ, but RATTLEING BASS, and you're telling me to get a new amp and sub? That's some legendary advice.

Try this.. Take set the line driver to about 4v. Set your gain correctly. Make sure everything is wired right. Make sure your voltage is good. If you do that and you need more bass still, ask whats a better sub then a L7 in a prefab. See what kind of answers you get.

 

[rpaulg87 10+ year member]

i hate trunk rattling by the way.. if you can hear more trunk than bass then theres a problem there man

Bloody hell...that's not my point -.- and no my trunk doesn't really rattle but I do have clean bass, which is why this whole "clipping" it with the gains so low is something I'm not understanding. Also I can't fit 4 12's in the trunk of a Challenger, a single L7 seemed like a pretty good bet, mine just isn't apparently "pushing" as hard as other L7's are without "clipping", which is the issue I'm trying to understand. Just annoying when someone says "get a better sub\amp" when you already BOUGHT something and both are very powerful and known to be loud, there's no excuse for it to be directly wired in "high level" and not be louder than a 200w kicker sub, but some are making it sound like that's normal lol.

Also still not grasping the hating on the "pre-fab" it's designed by kicker and the volume is perfect spec to the L7...what's the deal with this? My prior TR 75x2 12's were in a MTX pre-fab and they were absolutely incredible, I could rattle anything I passed by, mind you I also had about 700sqft of Dynamat in that car.

 

[MisterDeadeye 10+ year member]

am I supposed to drop the voltage to 5v on the Line Driver and then tune the amplifier gain UP more for a match?

It's either that, or get a different amp. Like others have said, you need to tune your line driver and amp so that you aren't trying to exceed the amp's RMS rating. You should also definitely get bigger speaker wire for your box. You should probably check the wire and see if it's crapping out. 16 gauge will NOT handle as much current as you're trying to put through it.

If you like how loud it is now(while tuned incorrectly), then you'll probably want to get a more powerful amp, or a different sub.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Buy a proper sub with a 3" coil and it'll probably handle 1000W a lot better. You may or may not be clipping, I'd lean towards probably are when you push it.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Bloody hell...that's not my point -.- and no my trunk doesn't really rattle but I do have clean bass, which is why this whole "clipping" it with the gains so low is something I'm not understanding. Also I can't fit 4 12's in the trunk of a Challenger, a single L7 seemed like a pretty good bet, mine just isn't apparently "pushing" as hard as other L7's are without "clipping", which is the issue I'm trying to understand. Just annoying when someone says "get a better sub\amp" when you already BOUGHT something and both are very powerful and known to be loud, there's no excuse for it to be directly wired in "high level" and not be louder than a 200w kicker sub, but some are making it sound like that's normal lol.
Also still not grasping the hating on the "pre-fab" it's designed by kicker and the volume is perfect spec to the L7...what's the deal with this? My prior TR 75x2 12's were in a MTX pre-fab and they were absolutely incredible, I could rattle anything I passed by, mind you I also had about 700sqft of Dynamat in that car.

L7s need a box twice the size of that "designed prefab. Its a gimmick. I dont think you understand what bass is yet. Stick around for a while, you will. Next time you plan a system it wont have kicker in it and you will have your eyes opened the first time you turn it up

 

[rpaulg87 10+ year member]

Buy a proper sub with a 3" coil and it'll probably handle 1000W a lot better. You may or may not be clipping, I'd lean towards probably are when you push it.

Well I can't really return this subwoofer..so If I'm going to swap out I might as well blow the mother!@!@er up >.>. I know the Kicker 750.1 is a incredible amp, they are all known to put out constant power, yes my old PDX 1000.1 was great, but I ain't paying 800$ for a new PDX, I got that 1000.1 for 350$ NEW. If it truly is just a weak sub, which is strange to me, as kicker says the 750.1 is the perfect match for a 12" L7 to reach maximum potential, I guess I'll just have to get two Alpine Type-R's 10" instead? I also should prob do the "big 3" because of how much my interior lights dim even on lighter bass notes, but my battery is located in the trunk so not sure how to upgrade the battery to alt or whatever one >.>

 

[VisceralSound 10+ year member]

As said above, your gonna need a bigger boat Box, and why go through all of that mumbo jumbo of increasing the pre-out volts? With my Kenwood deck, alpine MRX-M100 amp I did have to turn the gain up fairly high but even so, my electrical was fine, amp never overheated, sub sounded LOUD and excellent.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Ok, I think you're not exactly grasping what I'm saying, and these comments belittling of the subwoofer I bought and box are getting a wee bit old. I have heard L7's with this amp, and lower powered ones (L5), they rattle the hell out of trunks, with just ONE, if I wire it directly up, it barely thumps more than a 200w STOCK KICKER subwoofer, please enlighten me as to how that is normal? You say get a better sub and amp, I have a great amplifier that is pushing out 930w RMS, and I have a L7, which is known for pure SPL, not SQ, but RATTLEING BASS, and you're telling me to get a new amp and sub? That's some legendary advice.

Chances are the box you got is too small for that sub. 12" square sub = 15" round. Typically minimum would be 4 cube net to really do that properly. Also your car could just **** accoustically or the position of the box and/or aiming of the sub and port are hurting your output.

L7 has a 2.5" coil. Thermal limits on 2.5" coil are around 800-900W. Even with a clean signal you are overpowering that sub. Wire has nothing to do with it, if the sub is getting smelly you're running more power/heat into it than it can dissipate. Period, end of the story. Change your listening habits or buy a sub that can handle the power you intend to give it.

*edit*

750.1 is "maximum potential" for that sub would indicate that it's running that sub to its limits. Expect your woofers to get smelly if you run them right up to their limits.

 

[rpaulg87 10+ year member]

As said above, your gonna need a bigger boat Box, and why go through all of that mumbo jumbo of increasing the pre-out volts? With my Kenwood deck, alpine MRX-M100 amp I did have to turn the gain up fairly high but even so, my electrical was fine, amp never overheated, sub sounded LOUD and excellent.

You have a KENWOOD deck, I have a stock MYGIG unit, big difference in volt output...is it possible my amp just isn't getting adequate power? I mean the lowest I see it drop on the EVIC is about down to 13.3v

 

[MANTI5 10+ year member]

You definitely need to do the big 3, that should have been done long ago. Do you even know what your voltage is dipping to?

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Well I can't really return this subwoofer..so If I'm going to swap out I might as well blow the mother!@!@er up >.>. I know the Kicker 750.1 is a incredible amp, they are all known to put out constant power, yes my old PDX 1000.1 was great, but I ain't paying 800$ for a new PDX, I got that 1000.1 for 350$ NEW. If it truly is just a weak sub, which is strange to me, as kicker says the 750.1 is the perfect match for a 12" L7 to reach maximum potential, I guess I'll just have to get two Alpine Type-R's 10" instead? I also should prob do the "big 3" because of how much my interior lights dim even on lighter bass notes, but my battery is located in the trunk so not sure how to upgrade the battery to alt or whatever one >.>

If you paying those kind of prices for everything I have some stuff i will gladly sell you. lol. Dont go from one ****** sub to another. The Kicker ZX amps a OK thats about it. You need to stay out of best buy.

 

[MisterDeadeye 10+ year member]

700sqft of Dynamat in that car.

Seven hundred square feet? Do you drive an airplane?