Building In-Trunk: Tips and Tricks

[singlesubsetup 10+ year member]

^^^ well not the whole trunk, a box will be built, in the trunk, but I was looking for ways to seal the front of the baffle (box) from the rest of the trunk, to eliminate cancelation

 

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

ah, well i thought pretty well about this

i think the best bet is to situate the box as far forward as you can, and then glue some fleece to the baffle, leaving a lot of room on the outsides to stretch, then you can stretch the fleece to the edges of the trunk.

if temporary, you can use hot glue to glue the fleece to tape. if permanant, go ahead and glue right to the side wall or lip of the trunk-to-cabin hole.

after your glue all dries, pour resin and hardener all over all the fleece you just glassed. you might want to do both sides, but that's your call. from there, trim out your port(s) and mounting holes(s), and you're set.

if temporary, you should take the parts that are on the side wall and/or lip, and use a sort of temporary caulking (something that is not too adhesive) and make it air-tight.

any more questions, just ask //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[nismboy6986 10+ year member]

i think that really just depends on your box and car. that is a really good idea though. since i had to cut the pass through hole larger, i'm going to just make a 3 sided mdf structure that would connect to box go through the pass through and would be somehow connected to the pass through and expanding foam to fill in the gaps inbetween the passthrough. kind of like a funnel. the only flaw i see in your plan addidas is that fiberglass is brittle when its flat so you would have to build some type of frame to make it curvy

 

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

well it's not exactly brittle when it's flat... it just takes more for it to become sturdy. i used five layers of 6oz fiberglass and it's rock solid, didn't bend at all.

fiberglass just flexes more when it's flat.