Buck Box Designs - New Picture Log


Buck

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All that port area. What's the tuning?
Big port area means more peak around tuning frequency, in exchange for tad more sloppy sound the farther away from tuning you get, Correct?

you can fit a straight port in there?
It's about 32 hz. It's a larger port but not too large, not overly large. That port isn't straight, it's actually turns.
 
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Buck

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Some designs are the way they are from requests by whoever is going to own the box. Different people have different tastes, so I design to what they want, to the best of my ability and within the limits of the equipment and space.
 

Buck

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How do you decide when to put 45's in the corners?
There's a variety of factors. Sometimes they're used for strength and trying to help some with standing waves in corners or helping the port air flow through a corner. Sometimes they're used to literally take up space, for legitimate reasons. And sometimes they're used to make a port longer.

Some people just want them in their box. Some people can't cut 45's, so I'm not able to do it. Like sometimes 45's can't fit in some corners, but they're still wanted where they can fit.

I do what people want and/or what I think is best, it just depends.
 
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Buck

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Box designing is complicated sometimes, because not everybody knows what they want, or haven't had a lot of experience, some people have ears different than others, etc. The way something sounds is subjective. There's many factors other than the box that can make the system sound bad as well, that I have no control over. Sometimes woofers just aren't the best, or people think they wanted something they didn't. I have to look at the whole picture and figure what will work the best. I look at every woofer and the specs on them and get vehicle information and tons of info before I even start designing. I just take my time to where I feel comfortable with the information I have, then I design with the whole picture in mind. It can be quite a balancing act sometimes.
 

Buck

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3 Deaf Bonce 15's in a SUV on roughly 5kw. This box took me a while, it was fun. Had to up-fire the port, just because of space reasons. This should be very loud. Aiming for good daily with a decent meter score, that's why the port is like it is.

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Some build pics for this box! #3 Deaf Bonce 15's on an Orion 5k at .67 ohms IIRC @metalheadjoe

Box isn't cosmetically finished yet, I think there's just some testing going and breaking in of a new woofer.

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Buck

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metalheadjoe

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Some build pics for this box! #3 Deaf Bonce 15's on an Orion 5k at .67 ohms IIRC @metalheadjoe

Box isn't cosmetically finished yet, I think there's just some testing going and breaking in of a new woofer.

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Right on. Orion Hcca5000.1dv2 at 0.67 ohms. 320a Iraggi alternator, JY Power HP-40 battery.

I can't recommend Buck enough. This guy will take care of you. He doesn't request feedback, but he enjoys it, because he wants to know that you are satisfied with his design.

I can't speak to how he handles unsatisfied customers, because I was completely satisfied.
 
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2RZ-FE

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Maybe I overbuild things but at what point would you start thinking about three or more layers of baffle and doubling up the walls?
 

Buck

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Maybe I overbuild things but at what point would you start thinking about three or more layers of baffle and doubling up the walls?
That's a very good question that I don't have a perfect answer for. There's certain power level and box size I look for. Really a certain power level per woofer. There's a certain distance down a wall that I have where I'll put a brace if that wall exceeds that distance. It depends on the overall structure and shape of the box.

I use bracing to direct airflow as well, and you really have to be careful not to put bracing in a part of the box that would work against airflow in the box. Things like this are part of my designs that you probably don't understand fully, without seeing the dimensions as well. I do certain calculations with my bracing to make sure the bracing doesn't restrict airflow within chamber itself. I would say somewhere around the 5000 watt mark is where I start wanting to do double layered everything. It depends on the size of the box though, and if the box is really long and skinny or more cube shaped, or if it's really flat and square. A 5000 watt 2 12's box, you don't need double, but you'd be totally justified in using double layers.

Like that 5 DC 15's wall I did, that box will have metal braces going in it as well as fiberglass resin layers on the inside. So I might've even done 3 walls of thickness on parts of that box, if the extra stuff wasn't going in there, and if I had way more space.

Rarely do most people need double layers on every side. The boxes I designed that are double layered that are both 2 15's boxes were both requested to be that way. They didn't necessarily need to be that way, but it makes building them simple, in a way, and the inside of the box is unobstructed. Doubling up all walls is easier to wrap your head around vs adding strategic bracing placed at very specific points.

Another point to add is MDF vs Birch vs Maple vs whatever. Most of the time it's MDF or Birch. You can get away with less bracing in some cases with Birch wood sheets simply because of the strength.

Using a 1 layer box with bracing almost always saved space over using a 2 layer box with no bracing, but only up to a certain point. With walls and bandpasses, like blowthroughs, sometimes it's almost impossible to do proper bracing with wood, because the subs have to be accessed from inside of the enclosure and the enclosures are so large. The subs and port wind up stuffed in there, usually, without much clearance to any near wall, very close, so there's not even a place to put a brace. So you have to add layers of wood and stuff like skinnier and easy to remove metal braces. If I built a lot of high powered boxes, I would invest in a quick and sturdy way to make variable length metal braces.
 

Buck

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I design subwoofer boxes/enclosures. I'm branching out into home audio now as well. I may throw some of my favorite old designs on here, but it's mostly going to be new designs that I post, as I finalize them. If you have any questions, feel free to ask! I probably won't give you too many specifics. I only use Zelle at this point for payments, so if you have something to recommend me to use besides Paypal, Venmo, or Cashapp, let me know, and I'll see if I can accomodate it. I hope my fellow caraudio.com member enjoy these pics! Hit me up if you want a design, I take a lot of time making sure they're the best they can be, and I try my hardest to allow you to understand the entire process and what you're getting, and the consequences of doing your enclosure in different styles. I really do it for the love of it.

'm working on a website as well, it's taking a while.

This first one is one of my absolute favorites, it was for 2 Fi Team 18's on 8,000-10,000 watts. Tuned super low, it's a series 6th order wall. It was built, but not many pics or vids were taken of it. Owner said it did what he wanted it to do, really liked it. Series 6th orders can be tricky, especially with the tuning. Takes a lot of time to perfect my methods and each box like this. I don't send rushed designs out.

My email is: [email protected]

I can text or call you or vice versa to speed up information exchange between us. You can PM or email me, I prefer email.

I do sealed, ported, 4th order bandpasses, both series and parallel 6th orders, and consistent width t-lines (tapped as well). I'm working on my rear loaded horn formulas and some hybrid designs. Anyone that wants to be a guinea pig for testing, let me know! If you have issues with any box I design, let me know. I'd love to work it out somehow, mistakes and misunderstandings happen. I'm always trying to improve.

My website (work in progress): https://buckboxdesigns.com/

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Ehh pulled most of the pics will share after it's worked on more.

27088
 
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