Box setup and db/hz questions

Alright, my car's trunk can do 33" long, 32" deep 16" tall box. Might be able to fit a box just a tiiiiny bit taller if the box was sloped a little.

 

---------- Post added at 09:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:37 PM ----------

 

So what's the condition and price of your hdc3?

 
Alright, my car's trunk can do 33" long, 32" deep 16" tall box. Might be able to fit a box just a tiiiiny bit taller if the box was sloped a little. 

---------- Post added at 09:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:37 PM ----------

 

So what's the condition and price of your hdc3?

that will get you about 8^ft gross.

and sorry, i forgot about this post.

 
Alright, my car's trunk can do 33" long, 32" deep 16" tall box. Might be able to fit a box just a tiiiiny bit taller if the box was sloped a little. 

---------- Post added at 09:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:37 PM ----------

 

So what's the condition and price of your hdc3?
Id do one 18 or three 12s with that ONLY if you have some room for the port to breathe along with the box not covering up all parthways of travel for the sound comming from the port or else the box will just block all the bass.

A better way would be to wall off the subs from the trunk.

 
The best way I'd go would be a pair of American Bass XFL 12s or soundqubed hds300 12s forward firing trunk sealed and walled off on a good 2k-3k rms korean zenon board amp. Box building will be easy. A cube box with lots of bracing and a single 8 inch sonotube.

YfPZj.jpg


 
I really don't want to put something permanent into my car. If I walled it off, could I take the wall out some time? I still am up for the ski pass blow through, and have no problem taking the ski pass cover off or cutting it out.

I'm on a pretty small budget of $300 with a little wiggle room. I'll have to put a new amp on hold because of the budget but I still want something nice, and I know good subs with a low powered amp does not generally make much bass, but I have a summer job so I can put a new amp in this summer. Amps are easy and cheap to come by here, new subs are un-seen when they are decent. I have a cheap power acoustik 1,250w peak amp, and it does pretty good power so I won't be bass-less.

 
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I really don't want to put something permanent into my car. If I walled it off, could I take the wall out some time? I still am up for the ski pass blow through, and have no problem taking the ski pass cover off or cutting it out.
I'm on a pretty small budget of $300 with a little wiggle room. I'll have to put a new amp on hold because of the budget but I still want something nice, and I know good subs with a low powered amp does not generally make much bass, but I have a summer job so I can put a new amp in this summer. Amps are easy and cheap to come by here, new subs are un-seen when they are decent. I have a cheap power acoustik 1,250w peak amp, and it does pretty good power so I won't be bass-less.
That amp wont even tickle the subs man. Chinese low end junk, swap it out for a quality korean or brazilian amp in the future if you want actual progress.

Trunk wall off is not permanent FAR from it. Its basically a normal box facing the cabin and it requires sealing off the port and sub from the trunk. You can do so with blankets and shove it tightly.

Just like this but you seal off any sound wave from entering back into the trunk with foam, blankets or whatever else you have laying around.



Other option is to go down to a pair of 12s in a 4th order blow through configuration like this http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/478389-taylorfades-4th-order-ski-pass-blowthrough.html

4683795024_2544babff2.jpg


 
I know it's super under powered, but it would still work, right? I have a single 12" something or other sub on a single channel off that amp and it works pretty good.

Could I cut a piece of mdf to attach to the back of the box and carpet it for the wall off? And then could I still do a blowthrough? The wall would have to fit pretty well right? Add insulation to the top or something

 
I know it's super under powered, but it would still work, right? I have a single 12" something or other sub on a single channel off that amp and it works pretty good.Could I cut a piece of mdf to attach to the back of the box and carpet it for the wall off? And then could I still do a blowthrough? The wall would have to fit pretty well right? Add insulation to the top or something
You'll be amazed at the difference between junk power (that amp makes 100 watt actual real world watts on its best day) vs actual power. Sound quality difference will be apparent too.

Doesnt matter what you do to the back of the box with the wall as long as the front where the port and subs are sealed off from the trunk. If you are talking about sealing off the back of the box. No that wont work, you need to seal from the front. It has to be sealed tight enough so that no sound wave can come back into the trunk which is wasted output. Main idea here is that everything needs to be directed towards the cabin without allowing any sound from going back into the trunk.

blow though is a 4th order bandpass box. Trunk wall is a ported box you cant mix the two.

Trunk ported wall, you can do two 15s. 4th order you can only do two 12s. Pretty much your only options. Pick one, commit and do the build, no more over analyzing stuff.

 
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