Box setup and db/hz questions

[Baningu Yozora]

I'm sure you do know better, and that's why I stated that I was very new to car audio. I'm not questioning anyone because I'm sure they really do know better than me, and because people explained it and I can understand that I won't do it. This does however lead me to wonder why people like thelifeofprice's door speakers don't cancel/distort his other subwoofers. I don't understand why someone would come to this forum where someone is asking questions and tell them it's a waste of time to explain something. I've gotten a lot of negativity from people here and this is my first post...

So, what would happen if I still did make a hybrid box for all the same subwoofers? Wouldn't having it tuned to a different Hz cause cancellation? If so, I'll just build a regular box.

Now I guess I'm on to buying either 3 good 12"s, or a 15" or two...

 

[big scott]

door speakers run a different frequency then subs.

subs = 20 to 80hz

midbass = 80 to 300hz

mid range = 300 to 3k

tweeters = 3k to 20k

thats a basic example .

some my go to 5k for mid range.... and 5k to 20k for tweeters.

but you must use the same speakers . as in all your tweeters the same.. all mid range the same and ALL SUBS THE SAME.

even him run all the same subs.

all the same tweeter

all the same midbass...

its when you take say 2 different subs trying to run the same frequencies is were you will get cancellation and crappy bass.

and to go 1 further...

dont mix a d1 sub with a d2 sub.

use all d2 or d4 ........

picking what coil configure is what amp are you going to run, and what your looking for....

look at my sig, and see what all im running...

i have 8 - tweeters and there all the same.

i have 4- 8" midbass speakers

and 4- 6.5 mid range.

right now im running 1 - 15" sub.

but i have 4- 12" d2 subs im going to use. there all the same. including there use.

meaning if you run a sub for say 3 moths and you deside to get another one and run 2.

well its best to brake in the new one before you put both in the same box.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

[quote name='Baningu Yozora']I'm sure you do know better, and that's why I stated that I was very new to car audio. I'm not questioning anyone because I'm sure they really do know better than me, and because people explained it and I can understand that I won't do it. This does however lead me to wonder why people like thelifeofprice's door speakers don't cancel/distort his other subwoofers. I don't understand why someone would come to this forum where someone is asking questions and tell them it's a waste of time to explain something. I've gotten a lot of negativity from people here and this is my first post...
So, what would happen if I still did make a hybrid box for all the same subwoofers? Wouldn't having it tuned to a different Hz cause cancellation? If so, I'll just build a regular box.
Now I guess I'm on to buying either 3 good 12"s, or a 15" or two...[/QUOTE]

Well before you do anything Tell us the dimensions of the space you have to work with in Height x Width x Depth along with your budget.
Also tell us what your vehicle is and what electrical upgrades you have done along with what amp you will be planning on running.

You'll soon learn that cheap stuff like boss, pyle, pyramid, performance technique, nitro, dual, jensen, power acoustik, lower end lanzar, planet audio, pyle, crunch.

ARE ALL money sinks. As in you either get hosed with p*ss poor actual power output(amp) or handling(subs) while not getting loud. OR they flatout die within a month. These are door stop brands basically all you have is a very useful brick to use as a doorstop.

There's good stuff for the money but you'll need to know whats good and asking the forums before you buy is a good way to not waste money.


Also good job @big scott lol.

 

[Baningu Yozora]

My bad, I'm pretty sure I've seen lots of people with small 6.5" subwoofers in their doors along with their other subs; pretty sure lifeofprice was one of them. I'm thinking due to space restrictions I'll be looking for 12" subwoofers. I'll be around when I get them, and make sure they will fit, but I'm still wondering if my hybrid box idea would have cancellation or not. The idea was one subwoofer in a bandpass section and the others in a sealed/ported.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

My bad, I'm pretty sure I've seen lots of people with small 6.5" subwoofers in their doors along with their other subs; pretty sure lifeofprice was one of them. I'm thinking due to space restrictions I'll be looking for 12" subwoofers. I'll be around when I get them, and make sure they will fit, but I'm still wondering if my hybrid box idea would have cancellation or not. The idea was one subwoofer in a bandpass section and the others in a sealed/ported.

None of them are 6.5 inch subs. They are midbass speakers. Any illusion of bass coming from them is from quality power along with tuning and having their door into a proper speaker enclosure. That idea wont work just a proper ported would get three times louder and sound 100x cleaner.

Measure out the H x W x D of your biggest opening to fit the sub box in and report back. No guesses from you. I want tangible numbers.

 

[Baningu Yozora]

You got it chief, but I'm in a different city than my car ATM, and still don't know what kind of subs I will end up with yet. Still just thinking something for good lows that will shake my car. I know I can't go very crazy big, because it's a Honda Accord EX '97, but I've decided for the right sound I'll use up my whole trunk. I really wish I had a hatchback for less objects between me and the subs, but that's how it is. I'm still learning but an extra battery/capacitor seems like a good idea, so I'll look into that too.

I've figured out from looking into the kind of specs Ciaonzo throws out when selling subs that people here have common talk way out of my league, which wasn't surprising but how far out was...

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

You'll understand those numbers soon enough. Is that accord the one with a ski pass? You can do a 4th order blowthrough with two 12s in that trunk and get great results. A pair of sundown E series and 1k rms amp in a 4th order should be a good start out system.

NO on capacitors they are junk, dont ever think about touching one. What you want to do is the big 3 upgrade(

) and better alt and AGM battery. Either of the latter options are vastly superior to even fifty 20 farad caps.

 

[Baningu Yozora]

Yep, my Accord has the ski pass (Which I'm thinking might become a subwoofer port, that would make the problem of having something between me and my subs dissapear). I'll probably do the big 3, but my car was only $300 and a new windsheild, so depending on how beneficial the battery/alternator are I might, might not. I don't know much about the benefits of puting in a new battery/alternator besides faster charging and more amperage hours, so depending on the prices I find who knows what will happen there. Also, can I throw in another battery with my old one? I know lithium batteries when married don't like having a new battery thrown in due to discharge/re-charging rates, I have no idea if car batteries have the same problem. I'll look it up, but any know how from people here is always great

 

[Baningu Yozora]

Alright, so what do you guys think about jbl gt5 12"s? I'm thinking of getting these, because I do have a pretty tight budget, and they aren't very expensive new, and I can get one used for $30 if the coil looks good. I understand there could still be some distortion due to wear on the old one if I bought it, but it's much more doable then a set of 4 brand new 12"s. Plus JBL seems to be a good brand, I think.

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

why do you want 4 12s? two quality 12s, even one 15, on 2-3k RMS will blow your mind, and be lighter on your wallet. you can do a 4th if you want, but the proper ported box or tline will do nearly the same thing unless you nail the ratio on the first try

 

[big scott]

Alright, so what do you guys think about jbl gt5 12"s? I'm thinking of getting these, because I do have a pretty tight budget, and they aren't very expensive new, and I can get one used for $30 if the coil looks good. I understand there could still be some distortion due to wear on the old one if I bought it, but it's much more doable then a set of 4 brand new 12"s. Plus JBL seems to be a good brand, I think.

if you want cheap but good..

look at the soundqbed subs.

better then what you listed.

also dont plan on having a big system if your not going to upgrade your alt. and batterys.

http://www.soundqubed.com/HDS300_c_34.html

http://www.soundqubed.com/HDS200_c_33.html

also i dont think your going to get 4-12" in that trunk....

you need to mesure what space you have.

then we can tell you what you can fit in there with the RIGHT BOX.

NO PREFAB CRAP.

 

[big scott]

Alright, so what do you guys think about jbl gt5 12"s? I'm thinking of getting these, because I do have a pretty tight budget, and they aren't very expensive new, and I can get one used for $30 if the coil looks good. I understand there could still be some distortion due to wear on the old one if I bought it, but it's much more doable then a set of 4 brand new 12"s. Plus JBL seems to be a good brand, I think.

"""" I understand there could still be some distortion due to wear """"

wat..............................????????

 

[Baningu Yozora]

I was thinking of buying one of the subs from a person on craigslist if it was in a good enough quality, but it looked fairly old (Not broken, but old) and I'm guessing some wear in the voice coils could make a change in the frequency it puts out causing distortion from being added into a system with new subs of the same kind, which was similar but less prominent of a problem in my original plan if I'm not wrong.

 

[Baningu Yozora]

I do have some measurements that I took, but they aren't great and they aren't of the whole trunk. The narrow part by the rear seats is 32" acrossed, and 10" deep then the trunk widens out a lot. I'm willing to take up the whole trunk, but I know I have more than 32" length and a lot more than 10" depth. I currently have a 12" against my seats, but I wasn't giving any measurements because I don't have measurements of the whole trunk yet. I can fit 4 12"s themselves but the box is the question. I'm thinking of using my ski pass as a blow through port, but I'm not sure if that's being ported in the right direction.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I was thinking of buying one of the subs from a person on craigslist if it was in a good enough quality, but it looked fairly old (Not broken, but old) and I'm guessing some wear in the voice coils could make a change in the frequency it puts out causing distortion from being added into a system with new subs of the same kind, which was similar but less prominent of a problem in my original plan if I'm not wrong.

You need to stop comming up with these "assumptions" of yours and try to pass it off as logical statements. What you said was all misinformation/BS that can misinform other noobs that might read this thread. Please fact check yourself with research before making baseless comments or AKA complete and utter bullsh*t.

I do have some measurements that I took, but they aren't great and they aren't of the whole trunk. The narrow part by the rear seats is 32" acrossed, and 10" deep then the trunk widens out a lot. I'm willing to take up the whole trunk, but I know I have more than 32" length and a lot more than 10" depth. I currently have a 12" against my seats, but I wasn't giving any measurements because I don't have measurements of the whole trunk yet. I can fit 4 12"s themselves but the box is the question. I'm thinking of using my ski pass as a blow through port, but I'm not sure if that's being ported in the right direction.

You are once again committing the biggest mistake that EVERY noob makes called cramming subs in a small trunk which leads to horrible results where even a guy with a single proper 10 in a ported box will out slam you by far and you'll wonder why. You can only fit 2 12s in a trunk. NOTHING MORE. Might even be less than two 12s depending on how small the trunk is. the box is 70% of the sound and if you comprimise design and airspace just so you can cram sh*t in, you'll get NOTHING out of it.

Space makes bass. Subs getting no space = no bass

16 height(guessing on the height) x 32w x 10 depth is only 2 cubic feet GROSS. After accounting in how much space the port and subwoofer takes up you will have around 1.25 to 1.5 cubic feet left. Which is only good enough for a single 10. Dont even bother trying to run anything more than that with the amount of space you have.

Cramming 4 12s in 2 cubic feet means you will be at most only tap into 5% of each subwoofer's potential because you are strangling the crap out of them. Subs that cant breathe wont make bass. With a proper design, less subs but in a well engineered and designed speaker enclosure will give you Respectable bass that hits lows and sound good while doing hair tricks and making people's chests cave in from being crushed..