Box design help for 2 JL W-0 15'

TupacThaDon1971
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Alright well i have these in a pre-fab ported box now and i really enjoy em, but as far as the box goes you can tell its ported way too high like most of them (or so i hear)....so i was going to attempt to build a box for the first time but i'm a little lost on the design......i got 36 inches wide to work with about 17 deep and 16 inches in height....i'm looking for it to be right around 32hz if anyone can point me in the right direction as far as design or actually knows how to do it quickly....also any other tips for beginner box builders will be appreciated....Thanks in Advance

 
i could add like 4 inches to the depth probably....would that help at all?....how do you think sealed with the max dimensions would sound compared to this pre-fab ported box i got now thats probably tuned at like 44hz according to someone i talked to?

 
i could add like 4 inches to the depth probably....would that help at all?....how do you think sealed with the max dimensions would sound compared to this pre-fab ported box i got now thats probably tuned at like 44hz according to someone i talked to?
Would be a good bit better than what your current box is. Those W0s actually dont need big boxes with giant amounts of port area like most of the standard woofers nowadays but you are still lacking half a cube of airspace to even come close to the optimal airspace. Going aeroported is 100% must. Winisd measures out 5.5 cubes to 6 cubes net is ideal for these w0 15s.

GkiKWZ.jpg


 
ok i sort of understand whats going on....where would i go about getting an aeroport that is 6 in diameter and 10 in length, and would it go on the front of the box?.....never had an aeroport so this is new to me.....feel i'm getting somewhere though lol

 
I tried to remember the ID of a 6' PVC that's readily available in Home depot, I think I'm close... here is the box above with no bracing added as you are fighting for airspace, personally I'd add some dowel bracing just to be sure but that's up to you.

7Gy3OW.jpg


This is for an SUV correct?

 
and when i cut out speaker holes...do i cut at 15 inch diameter exactly or should it be a little less...i guess i'd rather cut it too small than too large ...sorry for all the questions

 

---------- Post added at 04:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:57 PM ----------

 

its actually for a 2003 buick century

 
I tried to remember the ID of a 6' PVC that's readily available in Home depot, I think I'm close... here is the box above with no bracing added as you are fighting for airspace, personally I'd add some dowel bracing just to be sure but that's up to you.
7Gy3OW.jpg


This is for an SUV correct?
6inch sch 35 pvc at home depot in 2ft sections is 5.75id and 6.125od.

6in sch40 pvc is 6 id 6.5 od. HD doesn't stock sch 40 in 6inch but Menards does as well as many local plumbing supply shops.

I would add front to rear bracing and vertical bracing right up against the port. Or make a piece with a hole in it that the port can go through that will attach the top and bottom.

 
I would add front to rear bracing and vertical bracing right up against the port. Or make a piece with a hole in it that the port can go through that will attach the top and bottom.
I agree, maybe similar to this... IDK, I'd have to see what I had laying around, but I'd brace it for sure.

yIhRvK.jpg


 
they are just 15lb subs, I doubt you need any bracing at all if you are using 3/4 thickness. They are low displacement and low xmax subs so theres not much violent action going on compared to all the subs you guys are used to.

 
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TupacThaDon1971

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