Bookshelf Speaker worklog

:nono:We're talking about bookshelf speakers. My MTMs using the dayton 7" RS could play late night tip to shake shit in my bathroom, but even they were tuned in the low 50s.

edit: I meant to say bookshelf, not regular speakers in original post //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif
I understand what you're saying, just adding that IF a certain driver can tune to 32 hz in a bookshelf sized enclosure, you'll still get the best results by tuning it that low. I highly doubt the Oz will and you are most probably right that 50-70hz would be a closer range, but still the only way to get a good estimate is to model the curve from the given specs or follow an alignment formula. If the driver is tuned too high initially you'll get really peaky midbass, if it's too low it'll behave more like an acoustic suspension. But again, you need to model it to find the most suitable frequency to start with.

 
I agree, I see no problem tuning a driver low so long as it is designed properly. I have no idea how those speakers model, but it looks kinda small to me. My enclosure for my 8s is around 2.4 cubic feet net( tuned to 34hz IIRC), I end up with this result:

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IIRC, specs are pretty similar to yours, other than the obvious SD differences...

BTW no need for a subwoofer for normal listening, pimp *** //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
For all four of you who browse the home audio section... UPDATES! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

Anyhow, I started on the second one today... funny thing is, this one is coming along better than the other one, even though I'm on vicodin making this one. Go figure.

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Yes, I know one piece of wood is a different color, you wood-racist bastards. I just ran outta wood on the board I was working with, so I grabbed a piece from my pile.

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Mocked up. It's gluing right now... the cam ran outta batteries, so I'm charging it for a sec so I can take more pics of it being clamped.

 
Ok, here it is clamped together. Coming along nicely. Everything matches up perfectly.

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There's mr. Titebond (Pronounced Tit-e-bond)

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And the other one chillin, waiting on its bro to be finished.

 
Looking good so far. You did make sure the crossovers would fit through the driver holes, right? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif Brings back horrid memories.
 
The worst is when you put the xover in first and the baffle last then you blow a cap and have to rip the box apart... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/verymad.gif.3f39c5c2fd57527b671fad3efdfac756.gif
Blow Caps often?

Maybe I am just a math nut but I always run best fit equations and such to get the desired responses that I want. And it isn't uncommon for flattest response to tune in the high 30's. Just a my 2 cents.

 
Blow Caps often?
Maybe I am just a math nut but I always run best fit equations and such to get the desired responses that I want. And it isn't uncommon for flattest response to tune in the high 30's. Just a my 2 cents.
The Tama has spoken! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
 
Was just browsing the home section and wanted to stop in to tell you good job! Can't wait to see the finished product. I plan on doing something similar when I get the time this summer.

 
The worst is when you put the xover in first and the baffle last then you blow a cap and have to rip the box apart... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/verymad.gif.3f39c5c2fd57527b671fad3efdfac756.gif
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif Unless you're using some cheap *** picofarad caps everywhere (which makes no sense at all for any speaker crossover lol), I don't see how you could be feeding enough into the filter to pop one.
 
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