Bigger wiring=Less voltage drop?

were not talking about power out put
we are talking about how much of the amps that it draws to make that power
Yeah but I'm just saying I was conservative with the output when you were too generous with the efficiency lol so all said and done your answer on my amp draw is right about where it should be.

 
Hondas are a royal PITA to add HO alternators to... Anything made past the early 90s has the Electrical Load Detector or ELD which will cause the ECU to cut your alternator's charging voltage to save fuel. Good luck with that!

 
Hondas are a royal PITA to add HO alternators to... Anything made past the early 90s has the Electrical Load Detector or ELD which will cause the ECU to cut your alternator's charging voltage to save fuel. Good luck with that!
Anyway to bypass that?

 
Anyway to bypass that?
I ran a reprogrammed ODB-I ecu with a ODB-IIa to ODB-I jumper harness. If your vehicle is past 2000 or has an automatic transmission, you are SOL!

Another product I was told would work would be this: Advanced Alternator Regulator

Of course, you could always try to trick the ECU with a resistor on the ELD sense wire, but that could throw a CEL and potentially put your vehicle in limp mode. I've heard of others disconnecting the sense wire, but that most certainly will throw a CEL because the ECU will think that the ELD went bad.

 
Well in theory the amp's supposed to do 2250, that's logical reasoning if it goes from 750@4ohms to 1500@2ohms on 14v electrical and 500@4ohms and 1000@2ohms on 12v electrical lol
In theory class D amps are also 100% efficient, no loss of power besides traveling through wire, but we know that isn't true in practice.

 
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