Better 12" than a rockford p3?

Also... start here:
 

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The rockford vented enclosure has a set of quick release terminals. How do I go from amp directly to speaker? Or am I ok to use the quick release on the box
 
I took some better pictures, hopefully they help.
Headunit is a Dual XDM6351.
Speaker is a P3D4-12. All the connections look solid. Its only wired to one side of the sub, idk I saw quick releases on both sides, so I took a side picture.
Trying to judge amp settings:
Punch E/Q : 4/10
Freq. Hz : a little bit over 50
Infrasonic Filter Hz : ~ 20
Gain : looks a little over 5



Amp wiring kit I used:

So by wiring the sub to both coils properly you will be at a 2 ohm load and should be able to get that 500+ rms on that rather than using that one coil. Wire as stated to 2 ohms to amp properly, as stated above.
Before going through all that rewiring process, This would be the time to see if BOTH COILS/each terminal of Poss, and Neg. are at the 4 ohm value with a DMM.Takes like 5 min. while the sub is out.
May be a reason WHY the sub is wired incorrectly(Such as One bad coil? ) Of which you can still run the other coil if its good and the other is burnt,.You are going to be at half the RMS Value(250 rms) Example) and a higher ohm load just to have some bump in the trunk rather than some nice bass..
If Its good,continue to wire at 2 ohms, and retune .Later on if you want to add another P3, get same one,brand and Model #, and build you a nice 3.75-4.0Cu.Ft Enclosure tuned to about 32-35 HTZ,(I like for this type vehicle) and wire at a 1 ohm load for 2 subs
Retune, That amp will be at its potential,and the subs should move some air, and sound pretty nice
 
So by wiring the sub to both coils properly you will be at a 2 ohm load and should be able to get that 500+ rms on that rather than using that one coil. Wire as stated to 2 ohms to amp properly, as stated above.
Before going through all that rewiring process, This would be the time to see if BOTH COILS/each terminal of Poss, and Neg. are at the 4 ohm value with a DMM.Takes like 5 min. while the sub is out.
May be a reason WHY the sub is wired incorrectly(Such as One bad coil? ) Of which you can still run the other coil if its good and the other is burnt,.You are going to be at half the RMS Value(250 rms) Example) and a higher ohm load just to have some bump in the trunk rather than some nice bass..
If Its good,continue to wire at 2 ohms, and retune .Later on if you want to add another P3, get same one,brand and Model #, and build you a nice 3.75-4.0Cu.Ft Enclosure tuned to about 32-35 HTZ,(I like for this type vehicle) and wire at a 1 ohm load for 2 subs
Retune, That amp will be at its potential,and the subs should move some air, and sound pretty nice

Reading 4.9 on each side. Is that correct?
 

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Touch the leads together and subtract that from what is shown. Those Harbor Freight dmms have more resistance in the leads than higher quality name brand units.

I've seen .3-.4 with the Harbor Freight freebie, .1-.2 with my Craftsman and 0-.1 with my Klein.
 
If they are both the same reading you should be fine. Those Harbor Freight DMM aren't the most accurate things so I am willing to bet you are good to go.
Ya, man.They get testy with a low battery.I use my Cheapie Innova 3320 alot due to being Blind as a bat.Got a Klein laying around that gets very little use as well as the Fluke 117 (use this one mostly on Home electric stuff)
 
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