Best way to power two amps in different locations?


4BangerStanger

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Apr 23, 2019
92
4
DFW
I'm slowly acquiring the equipment for the system in my 2015 Mustang. So far I have Silver Flute 6.5 midbass drivers and Seas Preimer tweeters that I'm going to run as active components in the front doors. They'll be powered by the Taramps 400x4 that I received yesterday.  A little later down the road I'll be adding a Dayton 10" sub powered by a Taramps HD3000 (1 ohm).  I'm planning on mounting the 400x4 under the passenger side seat, while the HD3000 will be mounted in the trunk. I've got pretty much everything planned out in my head. But, one thing I'm a little conflicted on is how to handle the power for the two amps. Historically, I've always had the amps next to each other, running a single power wire and using a distribution block to split it according. But, these amps will be a good 5-6 feet apart. Should I run separate wires from the battery to each amp?  Run a single wire to the passenger seat and put a distribution block there?  Run single wire to the trunk and put a distribution block there?  Running separate wire seems like the right solution to me, but then I have to figure out how to connect both to the battery and where to mount 2 fuse holders. Is there a distribution block I can use under the hood?  Maybe run a short wire to the block and then separate wires to the amps?  Lastly, what guage wire do I need to use?  Would a single 4ga for the HD3000 and single 8ga for the 400x4 be sufficient?

 

wew lad

wew lad inc
Mar 22, 2015
5,835
88
MA
You'll be fine with 1/0 OFC to a distro block. Most distro blocks will have a 1/0 output on the same bus pre-fuse so you can hook up a second 1/0 cable directly to the hd3k with a 1/0 to 4 gauge reducer. No need to run two wires. Spend the extra money on OFC cable and upgrading your alternator and big 3 wires. 

You will want 0 gauge to a 4 gauge reducer for the HD3k if you plan on running it for long periods of time, especially considering it'll be a fairly long run back to the amp.

 
OP
4

4BangerStanger

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Apr 23, 2019
92
4
DFW
You'll be fine with 1/0 OFC to a distro block. Most distro blocks will have a 1/0 output on the same bus pre-fuse so you can hook up a second 1/0 cable directly to the hd3k with a 1/0 to 4 gauge reducer. No need to run two wires. Spend the extra money on OFC cable and upgrading your alternator and big 3 wires. 

You will want 0 gauge to a 4 gauge reducer for the HD3k if you plan on running it for long periods of time, especially considering it'll be a fairly long run back to the amp.
OK, just to make sure I'm following you, you're saying to run a single 1/0 cable from the battery to under the seat, and install a distribution block there, where one wire will go to the 400x4 and there would essentially be a passthrough where the 1/0 would continue back to the HD3000 and connect via a reducer that'll allow it to connect to the amp.  Am I understanding?  Is the 8 enough for the 400x4?  Obviously it's putting out a lot less power that the HD (although the HD will be running at a lot less than it's max power being that I'll be running it at 2 ohms).

 
OP
4

4BangerStanger

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Apr 23, 2019
92
4
DFW
Also, how essential is it that I upgrade the alternator?  I'm really not sure I want to go that far. I just want a nice system with a little thump. Not really wanting to get into upgrading the electrical system. I'd rather invest that money in go fast parts :)

 

wew lad

wew lad inc
Mar 22, 2015
5,835
88
MA
OK, just to make sure I'm following you, you're saying to run a single 1/0 cable from the battery to under the seat, and install a distribution block there, where one wire will go to the 400x4 and there would essentially be a passthrough where the 1/0 would continue back to the HD3000 and connect via a reducer that'll allow it to connect to the amp.  Am I understanding?  Is the 8 enough for the 400x4?  Obviously it's putting out a lot less power that the HD (although the HD will be running at a lot less than it's max power being that I'll be running it at 2 ohms).
Yes that's correct. Look for a distro block with two 1/0 inputs and you can just use one of the inputs as a passthrough and fuse it elsewhere if you want. 

If all you want is a little thump you won't need a ho alt. just keep the gain where your voltage doesnt hit 11s

That 400x4 will be fine with 4 gauge ofc, you could probably do 6 or 8 gauge provided the run is short enough. 4 channels really draw minimal current on music. No more than 50a in all likelihood

 
Last edited by a moderator:
OP
4

4BangerStanger

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Apr 23, 2019
92
4
DFW
Yes that's correct. Look for a distro block with two 1/0 inputs and you can just use one of the inputs as a passthrough and fuse it elsewhere if you want. 

If all you want is a little thump you won't need a ho alt. just keep the gain where your voltage doesnt hit 11s

That 400x4 will be fine with 4 gauge ofc, you could probably do 6 or 8 gauge provided the run is short enough. 4 channels really draw minimal current on music. No more than 50a in all likelihood
Would something like this work?  I'll just use separate fuse holders. 

https://www.ebay.com/c/1640968459?iid=151779803304

I don't have any problem using 4 guage for the 400x4. But, the terminals don't look like they'd fit anything bigger than 8 guage, unless I can find a spade connector that'll fit. 

 

wew lad

wew lad inc
Mar 22, 2015
5,835
88
MA
Would something like this work?  I'll just use separate fuse holders. 

https://www.ebay.com/c/1640968459?iid=151779803304

I don't have any problem using 4 guage for the 400x4. But, the terminals don't look like they'd fit anything bigger than 8 guage, unless I can find a spade connector that'll fit. 
Ideally you get a fused distro block. I use one from t-spec, let me try to find it...

This one should work: https://www.amazon.com/T-Spec-V12FDB-134M-Position-Distribution-Block/dp/B00DX64WQ6/ref=pd_day0_hl_107_6/138-2474795-8688030?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DX64WQ6&pd_rd_r=6613a775-9535-11e9-af99-f7a03486ec91&pd_rd_w=uGoKp&pd_rd_wg=zrnut&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=0ZQVZPBBF7QXQGME31JA&psc=1&refRID=0ZQVZPBBF7QXQGME31JA

It says single 1/0 input put certainly looks like two. You could cross reference with the t-spec website. Buy some fuses when you get your fuse block.

 

tommydh

CarAudio.com Elite
Mar 31, 2012
539
1
Baltimore, MD
run 1/0 to a convenient spot in rear or side trim area to mount a distro block with 3 or 4 outs simply to allow for future expansion. I usually use fused blocks there if the amp under seat has no internal fusing I  would say run an inline closer to it just for safety. If you plan on doing any performance work that may include Battery relocation so think of running 2/0 or 2 - 1/0

 
OP
4

4BangerStanger

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Apr 23, 2019
92
4
DFW
Ideally you get a fused distro block. I use one from t-spec, let me try to find it...

This one should work: https://www.amazon.com/T-Spec-V12FDB-134M-Position-Distribution-Block/dp/B00DX64WQ6/ref=pd_day0_hl_107_6/138-2474795-8688030?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DX64WQ6&pd_rd_r=6613a775-9535-11e9-af99-f7a03486ec91&pd_rd_w=uGoKp&pd_rd_wg=zrnut&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=0ZQVZPBBF7QXQGME31JA&psc=1&refRID=0ZQVZPBBF7QXQGME31JA

It says single 1/0 input put certainly looks like two. You could cross reference with the t-spec website. Buy some fuses when you get your fuse block.
Quick follow up question; Can the amps be grounded in different spots? Or do I need to use a common ground with a distribution block?
 

Create an account or login to comment

You must be a member in order to leave a comment

Create account

Create an account on our community. It's easy!

Log in

Already have an account? Log in here.


Users Who Are Viewing This Thread (Users: 0, Guests: 1)



Trending topics

Latest classifieds