Best SQ sub for under $250?

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

that's simply or the lowest possible F3 because the room gain in a house starts in the high teens where as a car starts around 50 for small trucks and 40s for larger SUVs..

so that sub will work better in smaller box in car than house?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

yeah but have move preamp volts and maybe clean sound and more audio adjustments, but i guess lots of processors add volts to system too and easier to install..

No higher preout only means different gain settings not cleaner sound. Those audio adjustments have nothing to do with what the OP needs from his substage. We are talking about bass here not mids and highs. He needs upper bass extension to the 60hz range from his sub. A head unit swap wont do jack sh*t for that. Gotta chill out on the advice gramps. leading people to all sorts of wrong decisions and going off on wild unrelated tangents not pertaining to anything the OP was asking.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-um12-22-12-ultimax-dvc-subwoofer-2-ohms-per-coil--295-512 

---------- Post added at 05:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:13 PM ----------

 

the HF is the SQ driver the HO is the high output version.

He needs higher output as well as upper end extension the HO will be fine at both. He will be dissapointed at the HF's output capabilities along with its box requirements. Not to mention dayton themselves state that the HO is way more suited for car applications while the HF is suited for home theater.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

so that sub will work better in smaller box in car than house?

The 20 to 40hz region in a house is harded to get high volumes so they recommend the larger box to compensate for that application.

 

[The_Quiet_One 10+ year member]

What I want is something that responds well to alot of different types of music. I think I want something that can be set to a higher crossover FS so that 50's and 60's music can have alittle extra boom. Should I add a extra bass processor to try and makeup for the factory radios lack of controls?

I want it to be loud, but my primary goal is good response across alot of different musical types.

Jeff is right about the box, and all things considered that dayton is definitely worth looking at. Otherwise I may would look at 10"s and that way you won't be throttled by your current air space and can optimize your options. A 10 properly ported can beat a 12 that's starved for space or sealed. Not to mention it's fun to get loud with smaller woofers. Your friends will be like "what? That's only a 10?!"

If your stuck on a 12 then there's been a few solid suggestions already. You'll be looking for a 12 with pretty low Q (
A processor is nice, but that's down the road for you and only if you decide you want more out of your system and a HU upgrade isn't feasible.

Maybe I missed it, but what type of vehicle do you have and what amp do you plan on using?

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

No higher preout only means different gain settings not cleaner sound. Those audio adjustments have nothing to do with what the OP needs from his substage. We are talking about bass here not mids and highs. He needs upper bass extension to the 60hz range from his sub. A head unit swap wont do jack sh*t for that. Gotta chill out on the advice gramps. leading people to all sorts of wrong decisions and going off on wild unrelated tangents not pertaining to anything the OP was asking.


He needs higher output as well as upper end extension the HO will be fine at both. He will be dissapointed at the HF's output capabilities along with its box requirements. Not to mention dayton themselves state that the HO is way more suited for car applications while the HF is suited for home theater.

Did you look at the parameters? The HF has more displacement. The ho has a lower qe and fs and will peak harder..

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Did you look at the parameters? The HF has more displacement. The ho has a lower qe and fs and will peak harder..

On paper is different than what i hear live. After cabin gain etc.. the HO sounds very smooth and not peaky at all. The ultimax plays and peaks lower sacrificing upper extension. I heard both of them live I cant say i would recommend the ultimax for music. Strictly home theater is the best way to use that driver.

 

[The_Quiet_One 10+ year member]

Did you look at the parameters? The HF has more displacement. The ho has a lower qe and fs and will peak harder..

Displacement doesn't really help the OP here unless he decides to go sealed and a lower Q plays more nicely with the FR when you're throttling a sub's airspace. If Q is that much of an issue for the HO, and his amp doesn't mind the higher load, the OP can throw use a potentiometer on one of the coils to adjust Q to the application if it turns out to be peaky with his in cabin response.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

On paper is different than what i hear live. After cabin gain etc.. the HO sounds very smooth and not peaky at all. The ultimax plays and peaks lower sacrificing upper extension. I heard both of them live I cant say i would recommend the ultimax for music. Strictly home theater is the best way to use that driver.

in what alignment? there is no reason that it can't work in a car. its actually very similar to my driver with the exception of about more mechanical control on my driver because its meant to be ports/transmission line.

1.75 is perfect for a typical small car if you wanted more lowend 2 cubes is fine.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Displacement doesn't really help the OP here and a lower Q plays more nicely with the FR when you're throttling a sub's airspace. If Q is that much of an issue for the HO, and his amp doesn't mind the higher load, the OP can throw use a potentiometer on one of the coils to adjust Q to the application if it turns out to be peaky with his in cabin response.

no. it simply doesn't work like that. your only going to create a higher reactivity in the load and loose dampning. not to mention that QE critically damped is closer to .6 to .7.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Displacement doesn't really help the OP here unless he decides to go sealed and a lower Q plays more nicely with the FR when you're throttling a sub's airspace. If Q is that much of an issue for the HO, and his amp doesn't mind the higher load, the OP can throw use a potentiometer on one of the coils to adjust Q to the application if it turns out to be peaky with his in cabin response.

fyi displacement is everything sealed ESP if you want extention which i'm sure he wants a F10 of around 25hz..

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Displacement doesn't really help the OP here unless he decides to go sealed and a lower Q plays more nicely with the FR when you're throttling a sub's airspace. If Q is that much of an issue for the HO, and his amp doesn't mind the higher load, the OP can throw use a potentiometer on one of the coils to adjust Q to the application if it turns out to be peaky with his in cabin response.

btw good to see your sill active. hows work?

 

[The_Quiet_One 10+ year member]

no. it simply doesn't work like that. your only going to create a higher reactivity in the load and loose dampning. not to mention that QE critically damped is closer to .6 to .7.

Which is it? Will you lose dampening or will it be critically damped? You can't have both.

btw good to see your sill active. hows work?

Works ok, boring, but that gives me time to work on a potential thesis. How's life with you?

 

[Grendel0501]

No, I can't put in a aftermarket HU. If I do I lose the functionality of the flip up nav screen and the in-dash mouse that works the nav.

I know that limits me to jacking a signal from what I assume is a pre-filtered factory channel. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

Why did car makers have to make it so hard to switch out the factory head unit?!? So many intergrated periphials.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Which is it? Will you lose dampening or will it be critically damped? You can't have both.

Works ok, boring, but that gives me time to work on a potential thesis. How's life with you?

you cannot alter the drivers actual damping through a pot buddy. you can alter the load the "amplifier" sees..

The QES of .6- to .8 is much closer to being critically damped as for as electrical purposes(QES)

the new job *****. the programmer is a jackass that's job scared. hes a aeronautical engineer and he gets intimidated when anyone who know about programming of electronics works there.

He won't even let us monitor the program (ifix by GE) for preventive maintenance instead they rather the ******* factory go down. lol

but i usually make a decent living working 40 hours so i'm good. i have time to sleep and have a life.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

in what alignment? there is no reason that it can't work in a car. its actually very similar to my driver with the exception of about more mechanical control on my driver because its meant to be ports/transmission line.1.75 is perfect for a typical small car if you wanted more lowend 2 cubes is fine.

Heard the ultimax 15 sealed in a car and one in HT with 6 cubes tuned to 22hz. HO was 1.6 cubes ported tuned to 32hz in a car. Heard the ho sealed in a house as well, not too impressive but was better on music than the ultimax in either setups.

The ultimax basically came alive in a big ported box tuned low otherwise its lackluster on music.