best mid-bass-mid-range driver for the buck???

[SQBubble 10+ year member]

I don't think you'd want to run those up to 2.6khz

x2

 

[SQBubble 10+ year member]

then TRY the AA polys. If you don't like 'em, sell them. Mine will be here tomorrow.

i guess i will, i forgot those!!!

half of my system will be AA:naughty: loll

oh and i forgot, how much power yall givin' ur Poly mids?

i got 200rms each doors now with polk(gains little over half), yall think the poly could handle it?

 

[atoz350 10+ year member]

Which polk components do you have?

 

[SQBubble 10+ year member]

Which polk components do you have?

mmc5250

http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products/mmc5250

it can get freakin' loud and still stay very clear, they are awsome for the money I paid, i like them alot, but it lacks mid-bass...

 

[djman37 5,000+ posts]

i guess i will, i forgot those!!! half of my system will be AA:naughty: loll

oh and i forgot, how much power yall givin' ur Poly mids?

i got 200rms each doors now with polk(gains little over half), yall think the poly could handle it?

i went ahead and picked up the arbiter TM set. the TWEETS can 450 for long periods of time, I wouldn't push an IB setup that hard. Maybe in a proper enclosure I'd go over 100rms.

 

[camflan 10+ year member]

i went ahead and picked up the arbiter TM set. the TWEETS can 450 for long periods of time, I wouldn't push an IB setup that hard. Maybe in a proper enclosure I'd go over 100rms.

did you get the TM1 or TM2? the tm2 has the crossover, just wanted to see if you would be driving them active or passive.

post up a review once they are in and you listen to them, I was considering getting a pair to demo against my SEAS stuff. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsup.gif.3287b36ca96645a13a43aff531f37f02.gif

 

[djman37 5,000+ posts]

did you get the TM1 or TM2? the tm2 has the crossover, just wanted to see if you would be driving them active or passive.
post up a review once they are in and you listen to them, I was considering getting a pair to demo against my SEAS stuff. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsup.gif.3287b36ca96645a13a43aff531f37f02.gif

sure, I got TM-1 since I am going active.

 

[GordonW 10+ year member]

BTW... NO 8" woofer is going to do well, above 2KHz, in a typical car audio install.

The simple reason? The cone is too big, to properly handle the relatively short wavelengths of sound, above 2KHz, under these conditions.

An 8" woofer has a cone diameter of about 6" (inside the surround)... you don't want to try to use it above a frequency that has a wavelength of 6"... above that, sound from ONE side of the cone starts to greatly CANCEL OUT sound from the other side, off-axis, due to the delay caused by the speed of sound. Sound from the far side is delayed by the distance divided by the speed of sound, compared to that from the near side... at these frequencies, there is a LOT of cancellation, due to the phase shift from one side vs. the other.

For a 6" wavelength, the corresponding frequency is 2KHz... so, while some 8" woofers may sound OK on-axis at above 2KHz, NONE of them can have good output off axis. And there's VERY FEW people that can put an 8" woofer on-axis, in a car. Better to use a 3-way setup, with a smaller mid and a low crossover point between the 8" midbass and the midrange...

Regards,

Gordon.

 

[3.5Max6spd 10+ year member]

anyone know a pretty dammn good woofer for the buck that could play from 80hz to 2.6khz nice and loud, espacially mid-bass, (80hz-250hz)(6.5inch or 7inch)
thx

That depends whether you consider TIME=MONEY.

Most of these suggestions are excellent speakers should you dedicate the time/effort for the install and build a sealed or vented enclosure for them as they are lower QTs drivers. If you are just going to drop it into your door, do yourself a favor a get yourself a higher Qts driver-preferably a high +0.5x-0.6 to not be disappointed.

I've heard the Daytons in doors are they dont sound bad, but they do sound a bit odd running that wide range and require a bit of tuning.

 

[GordonW 10+ year member]

. If you are just going to drop it into your door, do yourself a favor a get yourself a higher Qts driver-preferably a high +0.5x-0.6 to not be disappointed.

Definitely second that thought. That's always been my experience, too. Can't fight basic physics!

Though, one thing people don't think of: the WIRE connecting the speaker, can raise the Q... as can a passive crossover. I've seen, from a driver running on 20 feet of 18g wire, a rise of 20% in the Qtc, in some conditions. Funny, isn't it... using a SMALLER wire, might make for MORE bass, in some cases??

Regards,

Gordon.

 

[UndercoverPunk 5,000+ posts]

But an 8" can work well, on axis, in an properly made enclosure, when couple with something such as a HLCD that can cover down into the 1.5k range correct?

Or should I just shoot myself in the face now?

I want to see you argue with Brad... that would be one hell of an information fest.

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

1.5k? Pssh....wussy //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif I haven't looked at the specs of that particular driver you'll be using (and too lazy to right now), but full bodied horns are good down to ~650hz IIRC. If the compression driver will sustain it, and you're using a 24db/oct slope, I'd try no higher than 1khz as a highpass point for the horn.

But to answer your question about the 8"...yes, you'll be fine, especially if you push that xover point down a little more. Beaming for an 8" doesn't begin to be horrible until about 2khz as Gordon mentioned. At 1khz, an 8" woofer should only be about -3db down at 90* off-axis. At 1600hz, an 8" would be about -3db down at 45* off-axis.

Moral of the story...you should be fine if you keep it more than 45* on-axis, especially if you drop the xover point like you should.

 

[UndercoverPunk 5,000+ posts]

1.5k? Pssh....wussy //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif I haven't looked at the specs of that particular driver you'll be using (and too lazy to right now), but full bodied horns are good down to ~650hz IIRC. If the compression driver will sustain it, and you're using a 24db/oct slope, I'd try no higher than 1khz as a highpass point for the horn.
But to answer your question about the 8"...yes, you'll be fine, especially if you push that xover point down a little more. Beaming for an 8" doesn't begin to be horrible until about 2khz as Gordon mentioned. At 1khz, an 8" woofer should only be about -3db down at 90* off-axis. At 1600hz, an 8" would be about -3db down at 45* off-axis.

Moral of the story...you should be fine if you keep it more than 45* on-axis, especially if you drop the xover point like you should.

I havn't gotten the bodeis, or payed for my DQT yet, so I am unsure on what these retardedly bad boys are capable of, I keep talking about going to 800 and trying them out and mr. jizzle keeps telling me I'm insane, so without someone local for me to talk to about running them (as I don't want to bug the shit out of you guys on here), I'll be waiting till I have them in and fairly well tuned with an RTA to start seeing where I can take them. I like finding stuff out on my own a lot too anyway... if I go slowly and listen for the driver stressing, then I KNOW what it sounds like instead of just going gung-ho and having to get new diaphrams after 2 days.

Which... if I could afford it I would actually do... I find ruining things I can afford to replace worth the money considering the experience I gain.

Wow... that was a cluster**** of words wasn't it?

Oh and unless I dunbass my way into a pair of idq's or illusion 8's that have been babied I'll be waiting for the next great 8" mid... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/naughty.gif.94359f346c0f1259df8038d60b41863e.gif

 

[kublkmax 10+ year member]

I would recommend the Rainbow Germaniums in the 6.5 drivers. You would not be disipointed. don't do an 8" driver you wont get the resolutes you want.

 

[Mx3guy 10+ year member]

then TRY the AA polys.

What is the model number for those?