Best class D amp brands

[djdilliodon!]

I agree with you here; spiders and surrounds play a major factor in RMS ratings. If you had a 4" heavy gauge voice coil but with the soft parts of an entry level sub, the RMS would be in the 200 watts range. All an assumption of course, I have yet to read the speaker cookbook.

The suspension indeed does play a role but the motor and coil are the most significant (thermally). The suspension can help keep things in check mechanically (exceeding mechanical limits) but as far as thermally, its role is less significant (unless super stiff). There are pros and cons when it comes to suspension setups. I personally don’t see a point in running super stiff suspensions on setups that are going to play music for enjoyment. Enclosures start getting big, the subs don’t play very low, and it can take a good amount of power to drive them depending on enclosure size and how stiff they are.

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

I agree with you here; spiders and surrounds play a major factor in RMS ratings. If you had a 4" heavy gauge voice coil but with the soft parts of an entry level sub, the RMS would be in the 200 watts range. All an assumption of course, I have yet to read the speaker cookbook.

The enclosure affects what power a sub can take before mechanical failure as well

 

[TheBigPilferer]

That's the minimum people should do. You want well over RMS. You're just massively underpowering them, it's a waste. All you're doing is maxing them out at just over half of what they can do safely before you ever even turn your system on.

If you can't handle it, then that's on you. That doesn't mean everyone else should underpower their subs.

A speaker driven on low power will last forever.

You can't waste potential of a subwoofer if the listener is enjoying it. The only real reason for additional power is potentially the crest factor of transients and I would agree that having a more powerful amplifier than necessary is always a good thing bc the amp will run cooler and likely last longer.

But, you're right, I can't take it. My mediocre system is capable of over 140 db which is past the point of my ears physically popping and compression sets in to where I can no longer hear anything that is going on around me.

If I had a trunk setup instead of an SUV that had a highly isolated cabin, and/or I was running sealed subs, then I would likely require substantially more power.

A point worth making is the vast majority of people with upgraded audio systems do not want to spend the required money to upgrade their electrical systems to support additional power. Most cars are not going to support more than about 1500-2000 watts comfortably.

 

[TheBigPilferer]

The suspension indeed does play a role but the motor and coil are the most significant (thermally). The suspension can help keep things in check mechanically (exceeding mechanical limits) but as far as thermally, its role is less significant (unless super stiff). There are pros and cons when it comes to suspension setups. I personally don’t see a point in running super stiff suspensions on setups that are going to play music for enjoyment. Enclosures start getting big, the subs don’t play very low, and it can take a good amount of power to drive them depending on enclosure size and how stiff they are.

I totally agree. Unless for pure SPL competition, I see no point in having a subwoofer that doesn't play low - I'd say 30 Hz minimum but ideally 20. My current 32 Hz tuned enclosure gets me down to about 27-28 before it rolls off, which is pretty good for the majority of music I play, but the next time I upgrade subs, I think I'm going to use a single 18" tuned to like 26-28 so I can get down lower. Some of these SPL subs have an Fs of 45-50 Hz!?!? Pretty worthless for anything except a burp.

I think it would be cool to run one of the stereo integrity ht18v3 subs. They're dual 2 ohm, so it would work well with my amp. The box requirement is kinda large on stereo integrity's site, but they're making a recommendation based upon home theater use. In a vehicle with cabin gain, you could get away with a reasonable size box tuned to something low for music. I was thinking maybe 6 ft3 tuned to 26-8.

 

[HardofWhoring]

A speaker driven on low power will last forever.

That's like saying, all cars that are driven gently will never break.
1. No, &
2. Why do you think I bought a corvette?

You can't waste potential of a subwoofer if the listener is enjoying it.

I'm gonna stop right here. This is a completely nonsense, of you trying to turn an actual answer into a philosophical one. This is where you turned a real answer into fairy dust.
You tried to say that people were wrong/idiots/misinformed if they did anything but completely underpower their equipment because you did.

The only real reason for additional power is potentially the crest factor of transients and I would agree that having a more powerful amplifier than necessary is always a good thing bc the amp will run cooler and likely last longer.

But, you're right, I can't take it. My mediocre system is capable of over 140 db which is past the point of my ears physically popping and compression sets in to where I can no longer hear anything that is going on around me.

If I had a trunk setup instead of an SUV that had a highly isolated cabin, and/or I was running sealed subs, then I would likely require substantially more power.

A point worth making is the vast majority of people with upgraded audio systems do not want to spend the required money to upgrade their electrical systems to support additional power. Most cars are not going to support more than about 1500-2000 watts comfortably.

You also have no clue what the "vast majority of people with upgraded audio systems" are willing to do, or what they spend their money on. I've seen enough.

 

[deez283 10+ year member]

2. Why do you think I bought a corvette?

Cuz u got a lil Pekker?

 

[HardofWhoring]

Cuz u got a lil Pekker?

I don't really have one, guess you couldn't figure out my point. There's a reason you've been petty too, and I have no clue what it is. It's like the three of you just keep encouraging each other to be punks.

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

 

[TheBigPilferer]

That's like saying, all cars that are driven gently will never break.
1. No, &
2. Why do you think I bought a corvette?



I'm gonna stop right here. This is a completely nonsense, of you trying to turn an actual answer into a philosophical one. This is where you turned a real answer into fairy dust.
You tried to say that people were wrong/idiots/misinformed if they did anything but completely underpower their equipment because you did.


You also have no clue what the "vast majority of people with upgraded audio systems" are willing to do, or what they spend their money on. I've seen enough.

I didn't re-join this forum to argue. This is America and you're free to power your equipment however you choose.

Don't understand why you want to say I called people idiots etc when I never said such a thing. I said it's a misconception that you have to have RMS power to power a subwoofer.

From my perspective, if I am helping someone with anything system related or doing tuning, I give advice and set everything in a manner that makes it less likely that they will blow something.

The fact is... over 75% of people are simply adding a subwoofer on to their factory system. I just talked to a major manufacturer about DSPs and why they haven't expanded their lineup, and they told me it's because less than 1% of people buying car audio equipment buys a DSP. Car audio is a niche market... why do you think Skar and Sundown don't sell a DSP?

A car is not a subwoofer - subs require no maintenance, but a car that's driven gently is most definitely going to require less maintenance and last longer.

If you want to get technical, maybe I shouldn't have said "forever", but I'd be willing to say 10 years.

I'm just going to answer your question by saying that you bought a Corvette because you like Corvettes and wanted one! Hopefully you get many years of enjoyment out of your purchase.

 

[HardofWhoring]

View attachment 54763

I remember when adults were adults, and didn't pander to children for likes.

 

[HardofWhoring]

I didn't re-join this forum to argue. This is America and you're free to power your equipment however you choose.

Don't understand why you want to say I called people idiots etc when I never said such a thing. I said it's a misconception that you have to have RMS power to power a subwoofer.

BECAUSE YOU THINK people should just under power their equipment.

From my perspective, if I am helping someone with anything system related or doing tuning, I give advice and set everything in a manner that makes it less likely that they will blow something.

That's relative on many things, and never known. What you're trying to push isn't safety, it's pathetic. "1500 watt, sub, you don't need anywhere near RMS power". That's complete horse crap, and not advice you should be trying to give.

The fact is... over 75% of people are simply adding a subwoofer on to their factory system.

OUT OF YOUR ASS statistic.

I just talked to a major manufacturer about DSPs and why they haven't expanded their lineup, and they told me it's because less than 1% of people buying car audio equipment buys a DSP. Car audio is a niche market... why do you think Skar and Sundown don't sell a DSP?

I don't believe this either, because you already have a history of BS, but no, that would mean that DSPs are a niche market.

A car is not a subwoofer - subs require no maintenance, but a car that's driven gently is most definitely going to require less maintenance and last longer.

I don't know if you're getting stupid on purpose, or if you still don't get the point. This conversation with you is nonsense.

If you want to get technical, maybe I shouldn't have said "forever", but I'd be willing to say 10 years.

I'm just going to answer your question by saying that you bought a Corvette because you like Corvettes and wanted one! Hopefully you get many years of enjoyment out of your purchase.

 

[HardofWhoring]

It's pretty pathetic how some people in here, not only thrive on drama, but actually try to increase the amount of it. Why are you actually here? Aren't some of you supposedly old, and this is what you spend your energy on? There's a lot of kid **** going on in here.

 

[TheBigPilferer]

Lol. Ok good to know. Ok. So let me ask you then. How far can you push quality subs in watts above their rated value before you burn them? The guy telling me what I just said, ran sundown u-15 (1500w) at 3000w rms. That’s seems pretty risky to me.

You're topic for derailed. Someone wants to argue and is not understanding what was said. The point I was trying to make is sub companies rate the RMS of their subwoofers differently. Sundown is a brand that underrates their subwoofers. You can most definitely put 2000 watts on a U series subwoofer safely, and even more than that in short bursts.

If you're on a boat you're going to need that much power since you don't have the benefit of cabin gain like in a vehicle.

 

[TheBigPilferer]

BECAUSE YOU THINK people should just under power their equipment.


That's relative on many things, and never known. What you're trying to push isn't safety, it's pathetic. "1500 watt, sub, you don't need anywhere near RMS power". That's complete horse crap, and not advice you should be trying to give.

OUT OF YOUR ASS statistic.


I don't believe this either, because you already have a history of BS, but no, that would mean that DSPs are a niche market.


I don't know if you're getting stupid on purpose, or if you still don't get the point. This conversation with you is nonsense.

I don't understand how you're seriously saying that I think people should underpower their equipment. All your doing is ruining a thread by starting an argument over something you didn't read correctly.

The statistics are 100% fact, per the market research conducted by Edge Holdings (Recoil Audio), which is one of the companies I'm affiliated with in this industry.

P.S. If you want to make a better recommendation for setting gains, use a scope. It's also the only way (besides an overpriced DD-1), to check where your head unit, some line out converters, DSPs, active x-overs, or EQs clip. A multimeter is useful for other needs, but less than accurate for setting gains. Different companies have different standards for their power ratings. "Good" ones will underrate, which means if you're using a multimeter then there's still available power on the table. "Bad" ones may overrate, in which case you're math will set you to clipping. Due to manufacturing tolerances, a 1000 watt RMS amp will never be exactly 1000 watts. One may do 1109, one might be 1067, etc. Also, unless they're regulated power supplies, they'll make different power dependent upon your power supply voltage. Also, on multi channel amps you really should check all channels bc one may clip before the other.

 

[SlugButter]

I’m running RDS class D amps. A 2k mono and a 6 channel class D. I’m liking the RDS class D amps. It takes alot of heavy beating on them to get them warm. I may be a little biased since RDS is local in my city, but the owner makes very nice equipment and is a genuinely nice person.