Best class D amp brands

[spkerfreak]

Not sure who said that, I get it, when someone runs amps into clipping without knowing that fine line or what they are doing, yeah, can be a problem. On the subject of this amp, yes. 30,000 watts will turn most any woofers into charcoal!

Lol. Ok good to know. Ok. So let me ask you then. How far can you push quality subs in watts above their rated value before you burn them? The guy telling me what I just said, ran sundown u-15 (1500w) at 3000w rms. That’s seems pretty risky to me.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Anyone heard of Memphis VIV1500.1? It’s their top of the line amp. Found a deal of this one for $225

View attachment 54669

Looks like Alpine and Focal had a baby! Decent specs...

 

[spkerfreak]

Looks like Alpine and Focal had a baby! Decent specs...

Do you think it’s better than the Salt-2?

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Looks like Alpine and Focal had a baby! Decent specs...

I have no experience with it. Definitely looks to be a step for the brand though. You're paying a lot for the DSP feature, at least at the price for it on Crutchfield. I Thought this was going into a boat? Not sure how much DSP is going to benefit you with that environment mind.

As for running woofers above their rated power, that is a little more complex. Ratings are just a guid, to keep most people in check. The Focal 33v2's I run are conservatively rated at 400 watts but I'm sure they will take more, depending a number factors, Are you talking RMS, Burp, sustained high output, these are all different applications that would fall into that "can handle more" than rated category depending on the product and what you are feeding them. It takes power to get over some things that rob power such as box rise and other mitigating factors. It's always important to use the RMS as your guide, pushing drivers for extended periods of time will usually damage your drivers. I am running a 3k Hooligan at 4 ohms instead of .5 (at which it can burp at something like 6000 watts) but at 4 is only pushing 1500 watts to 2 subs that are rated at 800 between the two. I'm not an spl guy. I like that the amp is extremely efficient and has much better damping at 4 ohms, most all amplifiers will perform better at 4 than at .5 or 1 ohm. People think, why waste all that power? As you have mentioned, some of the deals here are pretty good. I buy refurbished or from reputable high rated sellers, rarely have an issue with the products I buy. I have a general rule and not everyone follows it, but if you can afford it, most agree that it's better to have too much power as opposed to trying to make your system strain to get you just to the RMS level the subs are rated for. So my gains are set very conservatively and I never get close to how loud it could go anyway. It doesn't strain the electricals nearly as much this way either. As a rule, i always want my sub amplifiers to be rated 50% to double the rated RMS of the subs I'm going to use.

It's kind of like a wench. If you're pulling a boat out of the water and it weighs a 1000 pounds, a 1000 pound rated wench will get the job done, but if you had one that pulled 2000 pounds, and you knew how to operate it, easy choice if one can afford either.

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

As for running woofers above their rated power, that is a little more complex. Ratings are just a guid, to keep most people in check.

Rms ratings are what they are typically to keep the coil from getting hot and failing...actually running above rated for extended periods will cook most coils

 

[TheBigPilferer]

Different companies rate their products RMS differently, so it can be kinda confusing.

What's most important is the amount of output you want. For some crazy reason some people think that if they have a 1500 watt RMS sub that they need a 1500 watt amp. For example, I have 2 12" Skar EVLs that are rated at 1250 RMS each. I power them with a 1000 watt RMS amp, and I have more bass than I want. In fact, I'm generally only utilizing about 500 of those watts, and this is playing rap music. I do have a midsize SUV, which helps for bass, but if I go much louder than that my ears start to pop and it's no longer enjoyable.

 

[HardofWhoring]

I have no experience with it. Definitely looks to be a step for the brand though. You're paying a lot for the DSP feature, at least at the price for it on Crutchfield. I Thought this was going into a boat? Not sure how much DSP is going to benefit you with that environment mind.

As for running woofers above their rated power, that is a little more complex. Ratings are just a guid, to keep most people in check. The Focal 33v2's I run are conservatively rated at 400 watts but I'm sure they will take more, depending a number factors, Are you talking RMS, Burp, sustained high output, these are all different applications that would fall into that "can handle more" than rated category depending on the product and what you are feeding them. It takes power to get over some things that rob power such as box rise and other mitigating factors. It's always important to use the RMS as your guide, pushing drivers for extended periods of time will usually damage your drivers. I am running a 3k Hooligan at 4 ohms instead of .5 (at which it can burp at something like 6000 watts) but at 4 is only pushing 1500 watts to 2 subs that are rated at 800 between the two. I'm not an spl guy. I like that the amp is extremely efficient and has much better damping at 4 ohms, most all amplifiers will perform better at 4 than at .5 or 1 ohm. People think, why waste all that power? As you have mentioned, some of the deals here are pretty good. I buy refurbished or from reputable high rated sellers, rarely have an issue with the products I buy. I have a general rule and not everyone follows it, but if you can afford it, most agree that it's better to have too much power as opposed to trying to make your system strain to get you just to the RMS level the subs are rated for. So my gains are set very conservatively and I never get close to how loud it could go anyway. It doesn't strain the electricals nearly as much this way either. As a rule, i always want my sub amplifiers to be rated 50% to double the rated RMS of the subs I'm going to use.

It's kind of like a wench. If you're pulling a boat out of the water and it weighs a 1000 pounds, a 1000 pound rated wench will get the job done, but if you had one that pulled 2000 pounds, and you knew how to operate it, easy choice if one can afford either.

More complete horse crap. It's root mean square. It has to do with efficiency.

 

[HardofWhoring]

Different companies rate their products RMS differently, so it can be kinda confusing.

What's most important is the amount of output you want. For some crazy reason some people think that if they have a 1500 watt RMS sub that they need a 1500 watt amp. For example, I have 2 12" Skar EVLs that are rated at 1250 RMS each. I power them with a 1000 watt RMS amp, and I have more bass than I want. In fact, I'm generally only utilizing about 500 of those watts, and this is playing rap music. I do have a midsize SUV, which helps for bass, but if I go much louder than that my ears start to pop and it's no longer enjoyable.

No. RMS ratings are generally where they expect the amp to be used. You have the standard ohm ratings which are generally 4, 2, and 1, so that it can be universally comparable, and you have THD or how much distortion. So its:
RMS and the general ohm rating, and the variable is THD. It's done this way so it's standard and universal.

WTF are you talking about?

 

[TheBigPilferer]

No. RMS ratings are generally where they expect the amp to be used. You have the standard ohm ratings which are generally 4, 2, and 1, so that it can be universally comparable, and you have THD or how much distortion. So its:
RMS and the general ohm rating, and the variable is THD. It's done this way so it's standard and universal.

WTF are you talking about?

We're talking subwoofers, not amplifiers.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

We're talking subwoofers, not amplifiers.

Don't sweat it, some people in here are on a power trip (no pun intended) and tend to leap before they look.

 

[HardofWhoring]

We're talking subwoofers, not amplifiers.

Don't sweat it, some people in here are on a power trip (no pun intended) and tend to leap before they look.

Scroll up, and read the title of this thread.

 

[HardofWhoring]

Don't sweat it, some people in here are on a power trip (no pun intended) and tend to leap before they look.

You're such a coward. Again, you want to talk about someone, but won't have a conversation. Your fragile ego, makes petty remarks, so you won't get broken.

 

[HardofWhoring]

Different companies rate their products RMS differently, so it can be kinda confusing.

What's most important is the amount of output you want. For some crazy reason some people think that if they have a 1500 watt RMS sub that they need a 1500 watt amp. For example, I have 2 12" Skar EVLs that are rated at 1250 RMS each. I power them with a 1000 watt RMS amp, and I have more bass than I want. In fact, I'm generally only utilizing about 500 of those watts, and this is playing rap music. I do have a midsize SUV, which helps for bass, but if I go much louder than that my ears start to pop and it's no longer enjoyable.

That's the minimum people should do. You want well over RMS. You're just massively underpowering them, it's a waste. All you're doing is maxing them out at just over half of what they can do safely before you ever even turn your system on.

If you can't handle it, then that's on you. That doesn't mean everyone else should underpower their subs.

 

[deez283 10+ year member]

Classic.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

As for running woofers above their rated power, that is a little more complex. Ratings are just a guid, to keep most people in check.

I agree with you here; spiders and surrounds play a major factor in RMS ratings. If you had a 4" heavy gauge voice coil but with the soft parts of an entry level sub, the RMS would be in the 200 watts range. All an assumption of course, I have yet to read the speaker cookbook.