Best class D amp brands

[spkerfreak]

I’m kind of new to this so excuse my ignorance. I’m looking to power a 1500 W RMS, Sundown U-series 2 ohm sub. This isn’t urgent. I’m hoping to keep my eye out for deals and get something as it comes up. So I would like to get a couple of items that I could be watching for.

What are the best class D amp brands that out there? Or if you have specific amp that you would recommend for this application that would be great too. If you could list 5 or more of the top brands that would recommend that would be a great help. I tried searching for it online, but I keep running into these stupid YouTube videos that are made clearly by people who don’t know anything about audio systems and are just making these lists to make money on affiliate marketing from Amazon.

Anyways, I know for sure JL audio is good. So I’m already looking out for that.

Click to read more...

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

Audio Apex CAB-22 Car Amplifier Monoblock 2200 Watts RMS

Audio Apex CAB-22 Amplifier CAB-22 Amplifier The CAB-22 amplifier is one of the BEST bang for the buck in car audio right now. The CAB-22 is a half bridge designed monoblock class D amplifier is strappable and capable of making 2200 watts RMS @1 ohm. The CAB-22 also comes with a bass knob...

caraudiobargain.com

Now that they're in stock...I'd just grab a cab22 if I was looking for that power

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

That CAB-22 is a great amp. The stingeris a good buy:

Amazon product ASIN B0BN2JLBQ6
This is a very nice amp too:

DS18 1 Channel Korean Amplifier Class D Full Range w/ Bass Knob EXL-P2000X1D NEW | eBay

This Monoblock amp will be sure to blast your subwoofers away with high amounts of clean power for maximum sound and bass for car audio. (1) DS18 1-Channel Class D Amplifier EXL-P2000X1D. - Competition SPL Monoblock Class-D Subwoofer Amplifier.

www.ebay.com

DS18 EXL-P2500X1D 2500W RMS Monoblock Korean Amplifier Class D Subwoofer Car Amp | eBay

This Monoblock amp will be sure to blast your subwoofers away with high amounts of clean power for maximum sound and bass for car audio. DS18 EXL-P2500X1D. DS18 1 Channel Korean Amplifier Class D Full Range w/ Bass Knob EXL-P2500X1D.

www.ebay.com

DS18 ZR2000.1D 6000 Watt Monoblock Class-D Pro Car Audio Subwoofer Amplifier Amp | eBay

DS18 ZR2000.1D. They have been designed to efficiently pump out hard hitting bass and put your subwoofers at their maximum potential. 2000 Watt RMS Class-D 1-Channel Monoblock. Digital Class D Subwoofer Monoblock.

www.ebay.com

Taramps HD 3000 1 Ohm Amplifier 3K Bass & Voice Compact Car Amp - USA Shipping | eBay

You will receive one HD3000 1 ohm amplifier. @ 13.8 VDC - 1 OHM: 3575W RMS. @ 12.6 VDC - 1 OHM: 3000W RMS. • Bass Boost: 0 to 10dB (50Hz). • Signal to Noise Ratio: > 89dB. • Maximum Sine Signal Consumption: @ 12.6 VDC: 301A.

www.ebay.com

Taramps MD3000 1 Ohm Amplifier - Bass Or Voice - Refurbished Amp 3000 Watts RMS! | eBay

They are made in Brazil and always perform at the rated RMS power or higher. RMS Power 1 OHM - MONOBLOCK - FULL RANGE. 1 ohm @12.6 VDC - 3000W. Bass Boost: 35-55Hz / 0 - 10.5dB (50Hz). All products being sold are exactly what you see in the photos.

www.ebay.com

I don't purchase DB because it is owned by a Russian corporation but many like these:

Deaf Bonce 4 Channel 1080W RMS Class D Car Stereo Amplifier Amp 2000 MFA-4.180 | eBay

Experience Audio Excellence with the Deaf Bonce MFA-4.180 Amplifier - Redefine Your Sound. (1) Deaf Bonce Machete Fight Amplifier 4 Channel 1080 w RMS Class D 4 Ohms MFA-4.180. 1,080 Watt RMS Machete Fight Series 4 Channel Class D Amplifier.

www.ebay.com

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

CT-2000.1D // 2000 Watts RMS Monoblock Car Audio Amplifier

The CT Sounds CT-2000.1D is a compact 2000 watt class d monoblock car subwoofer amplifier. The 1-ohm stable mono amp features a Low Pass Filter (LPF), Subsonic Filter, and Bass Boost so you can get the exact sound you are looking for out of your amplifier.

www.ctsounds.com

 

[djdilliodon!]

M1400.1 - MMATS Pro Audio

1 x 1400 Watts RMS @ 1 Ω Class D Amplifier New heatsink design! More power and reliability! Extreme engineering from extreme power! • Ultra-Efficient Class D topology reaching 83% efficiencies at full power, provides the biggest power in the smaller chassis. • SMT assembly and 1% resistors...

www.mmatsproaudio.com

 

[spkerfreak]

A lot of recommendations here seem to be for pretty affordable amps. With the exception of MMATS. Which makes me question, are they the top quality amps? I wouldn’t even have to wait for any deals to buy these. Are these in the same class as JL audio and MMATS? I saw some cheap DS18 amps but when I started doing some research I saw a people write that they aren’t that great. I know that price is not always indicative of quality. Is this the case in this situation? If not, then what are the top high quality amps?

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

The DS18 Korean amps are very good, can't really vouch for the others. Most all of those long body 2000 watt amps are variations of the same Chinese house builds with a few minor differences. The stinger is a great little amp design and as they gain popularity I expect the price to rise. THe DS18 full blown S Korean is very good, and not as costly as the MMATS and are priced accordingly. I've Used them and I am a big fan.

2K Refurbished:

DS18 H-KO2 Hooligan 2000 Watt RMS Monoblock Amplifier Voltmeter Mono Car Amp | eBay

DS18 H-KO2. HOOLIGAN KO Spl Series 2000 Watt RMS. RMS Power @ 4 ohm: 950W. RMS Power @ 2 ohm: 1500W. RMS Power @ 1 ohm: 2000W. RMS Power @ 0.5 ohm: 3600W (Burst). Powerful circuitry to provide the highest efficiency while pushing loads of power.

www.ebay.com

New

DS18 H-KO2 Hooligan Monoblock 2000W Amplifier w/ Voltmeter and Clip Indicator | eBay

DS18 H-KO2 Hooligan Monoblock 2000W Amplifier w/ Voltmeter and Clip Indicator.

www.ebay.com

3K refurbished

Pardon Our Interruption...

New

DS18 H-KO3 Hooligan 3000 Watt Monoblock Amplifier Voltmeter Mono Competition Amp | eBay

3000 WATT RMS HOOLIGAN KO SPL SERIES. 1-CHANNEL MONOBLOCK AMPLIFIER WITH. (1) Amplifier. Powerful circuitry to provide the highest efficiency while pushing loads of power. Selectable X-Over: Fixed LPF.

www.ebay.com

The DS18 EXL line is also a Korean design but the parts and labor are done in China. I've used the EXL 2500 and am currently using the Hooligan 3k, they're both built like a tank!

 

[djdilliodon!]

A lot of recommendations here seem to be for pretty affordable amps. With the exception of MMATS. Which makes me question, are they the top quality amps? I wouldn’t even have to wait for any deals to buy these. Are these in the same class as JL audio and MMATS? I saw some cheap DS18 amps but when I started doing some research I saw a people write that they aren’t that great. I know that price is not always indicative of quality. Is this the case in this situation? If not, then what are the top high quality amps?

MMats is indeed top quality class d American made amps. If the price isn’t an issue, it’s imo what to run. Top quality internals along with an actual solid design. All the other stuff from the Chinese, Brazilian, and Korean offering do not compare. Do those amp make power for cheap? Absolutely! Are they of top notch quality and design? Nope! Thing is though If run properly (proper install and electrical), many of the cheaper offerings will do just fine.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

In that case, this is the ticket - bar none!

Incriminator Audio IA30.1 Monoblock 4000W RMS Class D Linkable Amplifier

<p>So you're ready for some mega power for your subs, but don't have the space for one of those massive surfboard amplifiers. You want to use a top tier brand name, but do not want to completely drain your savings. That brings us to Incriminator Audio mon

www.woofersetc.com

 

[HardofWhoring]

JL is good. I like JL and run JL, but you're paying for a name. Just because it's sold at Best Buy doesn't mean it's the top brands, it means they have a marketing budget.

A lot of recommendations here seem to be for pretty affordable amps. With the exception of MMATS. Which makes me question, are they the top quality amps? I wouldn’t even have to wait for any deals to buy these. Are these in the same class as JL audio and MMATS? I saw some cheap DS18 amps but when I started doing some research I saw a people write that they aren’t that great. I know that price is not always indicative of quality. Is this the case in this situation? If not, then what are the top high quality amps?

Yeah, nobody is really listing the BEST amps, their listing the best amps for a reasonable budget, they would recommend, or they can vouch for.

The difficulty with your question is, a top quality sub amp does not have the same criteria as a top quality amp for your mids and highs.

What exactly are you looking for?
Do you want the best design?
The best efficiency?
The best in sound quality?

We can list thousand dollar amps, but is that really what you're asking for?

The amps listed will make rated power, (and I would want to be able to run at least 2K watts).
If you have plans to upgrade, will it do that power now and can dial it down until then?
Is it going to stay cool, and not overheat, internal and external design?

The main cost difference between those thousand dollar amps and what is listed so far, is a very small amount of distortion, that you will never be able to notice on that/any subwoofer. It's just not reasonable for 99% of people to get really high end, low wattage, sub amps.

Your two posts make it sound like you think if we don't name something from one of about 10 brands (JL, Kenwood, Sony, etc.._), then you don't think it's quality. I could be wrong, there just seems to be some disconnect in what you are asking to what's being offered, as in, that's not what you're asking for, and trying to understand why.

 

[Clifff150 10+ year member]

I’m a JL fan and yes you pay for a name but you know you’re getting quality. If I were going for a Korean, I’d get Incriminator Audio all day. I have the 10.1 and it was heavily abused and never hiccuped. Most of the big names you’re used to aren’t really making offerings in the 1500+ market.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

A lot of recommendations here seem to be for pretty affordable amps. With the exception of MMATS. Which makes me question, are they the top quality amps? I wouldn’t even have to wait for any deals to buy these. Are these in the same class as JL audio and MMATS? I saw some cheap DS18 amps but when I started doing some research I saw a people write that they aren’t that great. I know that price is not always indicative of quality. Is this the case in this situation? If not, then what are the top high quality amps?

MMats is still made in USA and they're definitely of high quality. If you like supporting American manufacturing they're probably the only guys left making large monoblocks domestically. A bit rich for my blood these days, but I'd run them without hesitation.

I would NOT trust the DS18, but to be fair they're probably using the same boards as the CT sounds and CAB and a bunch of others. If you're bargain hunting, check out theamplab.net for refurbs. They're good guys, do good work, and they don't sell junk brands so anything they're offering is going to at least deliver as advertised and they stand behind their work/warranty.

 

[spkerfreak]

JL is good. I like JL and run JL, but you're paying for a name. Just because it's sold at Best Buy doesn't mean it's the top brands, it means they have a marketing budget.


Yeah, nobody is really listing the BEST amps, their listing the best amps for a reasonable budget, they would recommend, or they can vouch for.

The difficulty with your question is, a top quality sub amp does not have the same criteria as a top quality amp for your mids and highs.

What exactly are you looking for?
Do you want the best design?
The best efficiency?
The best in sound quality?

We can list thousand dollar amps, but is that really what you're asking for?

The amps listed will make rated power, (and I would want to be able to run at least 2K watts).
If you have plans to upgrade, will it do that power now and can dial it down until then?
Is it going to stay cool, and not overheat, internal and external design?

The main cost difference between those thousand dollar amps and what is listed so far, is a very small amount of distortion, that you will never be able to notice on that/any subwoofer. It's just not reasonable for 99% of people to get really high end, low wattage, sub amps.

Your two posts make it sound like you think if we don't name something from one of about 10 brands (JL, Kenwood, Sony, etc.._), then you don't think it's quality. I could be wrong, there just seems to be some disconnect in what you are asking to what's being offered, as in, that's not what you're asking for, and trying to understand why.

I’m looking for good quality. And something that won’t overheat playing it at top volume. I will 100% not be upgrading to anything larger. This is already overkill.

Regarding your question the top amp statement I made. I am trying to understand if there’s a high correlation between price and quality. That’s where that question comes from. I asked if there was that correlation. Because in many industries the price to quality correlation only goes to a certain point. After that point, you’re just paying for brand name. I don’t care about the brand name, but I do want something that will have play quality sound, undistorted, and not overheat. I run a Skar amp in one of the boats that I have, and it mostly sounds good, until it’s cracked up all the way to the top, but at 75%-80% it’s good.

So my main interest is 1. It sounds good. 2. It doesn’t overheat. I will be wiring everything with the correct size wires, maybe even larger. So no worry there, and I have 4 deep cycle batteries that will be powering my system.

 

[HardofWhoring]

I’m looking for good quality. And something that won’t overheat playing it at top volume. I will 100% not be upgrading to anything larger. This is already overkill.

Regarding your question the top amp statement I made. I am trying to understand if there’s a high correlation between price and quality. That’s where that question comes from. I asked if there was that correlation. Because in many industries the price to quality correlation only goes to a certain point. After that point, you’re just paying for brand name. I don’t care about the brand name, but I do want something that will have play quality sound, undistorted, and not overheat. I run a Skar amp in one of the boats that I have, and it mostly sounds good, until it’s cracked up all the way to the top, but at 75%-80% it’s good.

So my main interest is 1. It sounds good. 2. It doesn’t overheat. I will be wiring everything with the correct size wires, maybe even larger. So no worry there, and I have 4 deep cycle batteries that will be powering my system.

With amps, you pay a little more for more power, but you pay a lot more for the least amount of distortion. It's just not a main factor in a sub amp. You're never going to hear the difference in distortion in your subs between .02% and .2% distortion (which would probably be a $500 difference), and you have to spend a lot of time and money to make the vehicle into a sound stage where you even could notice the difference.

I would personally be looking for something in the 2K watt range for that sub, but where you mount it is going to be the biggest impact on heat. Needs to be somewhere that can get air flow, and perhaps the size and shape of the amp matters.

 

[spkerfreak]

With amps, you pay a little more for more power, but you pay a lot more for the least amount of distortion. It's just not a main factor in a sub amp. You're never going to hear the difference in distortion in your subs between .02% and .2% distortion (which would probably be a $500 difference), and you have to spend a lot of time and money to make the vehicle into a sound stage where you even could notice the difference.

I would personally be looking for something in the 2K watt range for that sub, but where you mount it is going to be the biggest impact on heat. Needs to be somewhere that can get air flow, and perhaps the size and shape of the amp matters.

Is that for pretty much any amp across the board, or is there a cutoff somewhere? For example, would I notice a difference if I got a Skar audio amp vs a high priced one?

 

[HardofWhoring]

Is that for pretty much any amp across the board, or is there a cutoff somewhere? For example, would I notice a difference if I got a Skar audio amp vs a high priced one?

Not unless you buy some really high end subs, probably something like $1k+ focal subs, then sound deaden your vehicle with multiple layers of butyl and foam so all the outside noise isn't interfering over top of it. Even your RCA cables, and only listening to only lossless music.
Then this wouldn't make sense unless you did the same thing for your mids and highs. Those would need to be somewhere at the $1K minimum range (for each pair of components), plus a really high quality amp for those (+ electrical). So if you have a $5-$10K+ system planned, then yes.

 

[spkerfreak]

Not unless you buy some really high end subs, probably something like $1k+ focal subs, then sound deaden your vehicle with multiple layers of butyl and foam so all the outside noise isn't interfering over top of it. Even your RCA cables, and only listening to only lossless music.
Then this wouldn't make sense unless you did the same thing for your mids and highs. Those would need to be somewhere at the $1K minimum range (for each pair of components), plus a really high quality amp for those (+ electrical). So if you have a $5-$10K+ system planned, then yes.

Technically this is all going into a boat. I currently have 4 10” wet sounds mids on tower. In the cab I have 4 6.5” wet sound mids. Might change it to 6 jl audio 7.7” component marine speakers. Powered by 2 wet sounds amps rated to match power for speakers. Currently I’m running a JL audio 600.1 amp for a 12” kicker comp R. And the base is a little too low. That’s why I got a sundown u15. It will be boxed and right under the driver seat. Running all correct wire sizes with wet sounds RCA cables. JL audio head unit, with and additional zone control unit that ups the output voltage.

The boat does have carpet inside the sections where speakers are mounted, so there’s no rattling, but this is not a car obviously. People move around the boat, and it’s wide open to the air, and we are driving around the lake when it’s turned up. So there’s the wind noise, the engine noise, etc. But that means when we are playing it, we play it at full blast.

 

[HardofWhoring]

I have kicker comps in my pickup. If you have that up to 2 ohm with 600w RMS, IMO, you could still add more. If you have that wired up as 4 ohm, then you're definitely missing out.

If you're after clean sound, do you have this in a sealed box? A good ported enclosure is gonna do almost twice the damage, but it's gonna be boomy,

 

[spkerfreak]

I have kicker comps in my pickup. If you have that up to 2 ohm with 600w RMS, IMO, you could still add more. If you have that wired up as 4 ohm, then you're definitely missing out.

If you're after clean sound, do you have this in a sealed box? A good ported enclosure is gonna do almost twice the damage, but it's gonna be boomy,

Not ported. It’s dual coil. So I can only run it as 2 ohm or 8 ohm. I currently have it set up 2 ohm. I believe my specific model is 500w rms at 2ohm. I am worried about turning it up any higher since I had a 12” comp vr and installed the amp without seeing the gain and it blew one of the coils. So this was another one I had and used it to replace it. But now when I tuned it to the correct output it’s not producing nearly the amount of base I want. The 6.5 mid base is sounding louder. Lol. I can crank it up higher, but again worried about blowing it. That’s why I figured I should just go up to 15” and not worry about it. So I got the 15” sundown, but don’t have an amp yet. Figured that would give me enough power + some, so I don’t have to max it out.

 

[spkerfreak]

What do you think of Mmats LS2000.1D? I just found one for a good price

Edit: actually I think I found even a better one. DC 2.0k amp for $175