Best class D amp brands

Is that for pretty much any amp across the board, or is there a cutoff somewhere? For example, would I notice a difference if I got a Skar audio amp vs a high priced one?
Not unless you buy some really high end subs, probably something like $1k+ focal subs, then sound deaden your vehicle with multiple layers of butyl and foam so all the outside noise isn't interfering over top of it. Even your RCA cables, and only listening to only lossless music.
Then this wouldn't make sense unless you did the same thing for your mids and highs. Those would need to be somewhere at the $1K minimum range (for each pair of components), plus a really high quality amp for those (+ electrical). So if you have a $5-$10K+ system planned, then yes.
 
Not unless you buy some really high end subs, probably something like $1k+ focal subs, then sound deaden your vehicle with multiple layers of butyl and foam so all the outside noise isn't interfering over top of it. Even your RCA cables, and only listening to only lossless music.
Then this wouldn't make sense unless you did the same thing for your mids and highs. Those would need to be somewhere at the $1K minimum range (for each pair of components), plus a really high quality amp for those (+ electrical). So if you have a $5-$10K+ system planned, then yes.

Technically this is all going into a boat. I currently have 4 10” wet sounds mids on tower. In the cab I have 4 6.5” wet sound mids. Might change it to 6 jl audio 7.7” component marine speakers. Powered by 2 wet sounds amps rated to match power for speakers. Currently I’m running a JL audio 600.1 amp for a 12” kicker comp R. And the base is a little too low. That’s why I got a sundown u15. It will be boxed and right under the driver seat. Running all correct wire sizes with wet sounds RCA cables. JL audio head unit, with and additional zone control unit that ups the output voltage.

The boat does have carpet inside the sections where speakers are mounted, so there’s no rattling, but this is not a car obviously. People move around the boat, and it’s wide open to the air, and we are driving around the lake when it’s turned up. So there’s the wind noise, the engine noise, etc. But that means when we are playing it, we play it at full blast.
 
Last edited:
I have kicker comps in my pickup. If you have that up to 2 ohm with 600w RMS, IMO, you could still add more. If you have that wired up as 4 ohm, then you're definitely missing out.

If you're after clean sound, do you have this in a sealed box? A good ported enclosure is gonna do almost twice the damage, but it's gonna be boomy,
 
I have kicker comps in my pickup. If you have that up to 2 ohm with 600w RMS, IMO, you could still add more. If you have that wired up as 4 ohm, then you're definitely missing out.

If you're after clean sound, do you have this in a sealed box? A good ported enclosure is gonna do almost twice the damage, but it's gonna be boomy,

Not ported. It’s dual coil. So I can only run it as 2 ohm or 8 ohm. I currently have it set up 2 ohm. I believe my specific model is 500w rms at 2ohm. I am worried about turning it up any higher since I had a 12” comp vr and installed the amp without seeing the gain and it blew one of the coils. So this was another one I had and used it to replace it. But now when I tuned it to the correct output it’s not producing nearly the amount of base I want. The 6.5 mid base is sounding louder. Lol. I can crank it up higher, but again worried about blowing it. That’s why I figured I should just go up to 15” and not worry about it. So I got the 15” sundown, but don’t have an amp yet. Figured that would give me enough power + some, so I don’t have to max it out.
 
What do you think of Mmats LS2000.1D? I just found one for a good price

Edit: actually I think I found even a better one. DC 2.0k amp for $175
 
Last edited:
Is that for pretty much any amp across the board, or is there a cutoff somewhere? For example, would I notice a difference if I got a Skar audio amp vs a high priced one?
I think that is a generalization. Generally (ha-ha) speaking, you pay more, you get more to a point. I tend to categorize product in the following categories:

Garbage:
Decent:
Good:
Very Good:
Very, very good:
Exceptional:
Benchmark:

That said, I think that $800 DS18 Hooligans 3K (new) $599 refurbished) is in the upper tier, not the top, but upper tier and just like JL, you pay for it. I put the DS18 (and this particular JL) in the Very good category, The MMATs in the very very good category, the Focal FDP in the very very good category and the AC in the very good category. When looking for items, I categorize them in accordance with my scale, then look for the best deal on very good or very very good equipment. I am not in a position to get everything in the Very very good and exceptional category, just is not in the budget for me personally. The scale is subjective and arbitrary to a point, but establishing your own and sticking to it is a good way to get what you need within a specific budgetary goal.

The DS18 EXL line is also Korean, uses Korean boards w/quality SMD's and the main difference between the two (as advised from a friend who works for them) is the parts are not all Korean and the labor is done in China, thus the lower cost. I think there are a lot of good quality reasonable priced offerings from the likes of Recoil, Stinger, NVX, CT designs, etc. I have 3 different amp brands as I went for the best deal I could get on for the respective application. $225 for an open box AudioControl 4.300 (tweeters), $549 for an open box Focal FDP 4.600 (6.5" comps) and $499 (factory direct) for the DS18 (all Korean) Hooligan 3K (dual Focal 13" subs). When ready to buy, set your goal, your budget and get the best deal on the products that fill the need.

My father always told me growing up that it cost a little more to do things right but it's always expensive to do them cheap.
 
Last edited:
That’s the exact video I used for setting my gain. I just didn’t notice that the gain was turned up when I first set up the amp. It’s all adjusted now
 
DC is good. Korean I'm pretty sure (which we like).

Incriminator is very nice.

Sundown SALT line is high end Korean.

In the end they are all very similar.
Pick one that's a good brand that you like the looks of and that's powerful enough. Anything more is splitting hairs.
 
I would rate that DC amp in the "good" category.

(y)
So I found some good amps after digging around. How would you rate these? From top to bottom.

Sundown salt-2 2000w mono block
DC Audio 2.0k monoblock
Mmats LS2000.1D
CT 2000.1D
Sundown SAE V3-2000D
Sundown FSB-2000D
db wdx 2kg2
 
I like the top 3 you posted.


Search for some of these amps on YouTube and include Williston Audio Labs.

Acquaint yourself with the amplifier dyno. Check out how DC amps perform, how Sundown Salt amps perform. It will give you a good idea how certain brands and specific amp models will perform.
 
Anyone heard of Memphis VIV1500.1? It’s their top of the line amp. Found a deal of this one for $225

IMG_3318.png
 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...

Similar threads

These are some really great sounding speakers as well for the $ Ive also swapped the tweeters with some CDT DRT25 tweets and sound great on some...
7
142
Do not know anything other than reading the reviews, and Made in China. I myself wouldnt spend the money on it. Id put these funds towards a...
8
287
Avoid jvc 480bhs hard to see the display in the daytime even with the brightness all the way up also not as easy getting to the audio menu like...
5
665

About this thread

spkerfreak

CarAudio.com Newbie
Thread starter
spkerfreak
Joined
Location
California
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
150
Views
8,927
Last reply date
Last reply from
Doxquzme
IMG_0503.jpeg

DEW123

    May 7, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
IMG_0489.jpeg

DEW123

    May 7, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

Latest topics

Top