Anybody have opinions on wiring diagram?

[xpl0it 10+ year member]

iceT, I'm talking about between batteries, not the amplifier's fusing.

 

[iceteebone 5,000+ posts]

iceT, I'm talking about between batteries, not the amplifier's fusing.

oh

well what you wanna do then is place a fuse 18" from battery under the hood, and the other fuse 18" from battery in trunk

 

[djman37 5,000+ posts]

xploit,

did I miss you saying you were competing or not?

 

[xpl0it 10+ year member]

No I'm not. Maybe just for fun sometime. I just wnat my system as loud as possible with what i'll have and not sound like total poop. I'm debating now whether to ground to the front, or buy sound deadening. I just want to find a really solid grounding point in my rear if possible, but can't find the perfect spot. Could I just ground to the chassis with 3 runs of 1/0 gauge? Or would 2 runs of 1/0 be fine?

 

[DarkFox 10+ year member]

I would do 2 runs of 0 to the back(because you have 2 to the front.)

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

DarkFox, for an ANL fuse to low it takes much more than the rated current. It will flow rated current theoretically forever, and certain overcurrent percentages for certain periods of time. Learn about fuses before you run off at the keyboard. ANL fuses are not fast blow fuses. Check the time chart.

http://www.bcae1.com/fuses.htm

Read and learn.

$5 for a foot of 0ga?!? That better come with a reach around at least.

As far as where you need fusing:

Within 18" of any battery pos post.

Any time you reduce wire gauge and the previous inline fuse is larger than the max capacity of the smallest wire.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

Could I just ground to the chassis with 3 runs of 1/0 gauge? Or would 2 runs of 1/0 be fine?

The number of ground wires to the chassis are not the problem, the chassis is. The chassis itself is going to be your largest source of resistance, not the wire.

 

[headless 10+ year member]

IMO, if you need 0ga for positive, you may as well run another 0ga wire for ground, right back to the battery's negative. The chassis of a vehicle is a black box; unless you've torn your model of car apart and happen to know where good, solid connections are made, you're as likely to hit a shitty ground with multiple welds between you and the alternator ground as you are to hit a solid one that has only one (maybe) weld between it and the ground. I've read a couple articles on car body resistances and they all have said that most cars body's are going to have a resistance of a run of 4ga or so. If my system drew that kind of current, there'd be 0ga connecting EVERYTHING up front to the negative post of the front batt, and then a 0ga run from that neg post of the front batt to the rear batt. A true parallel connection without any unknowns involved.

Re: 5$/foot for 0ga. If you pay that for some 0ga wire you are a ****ing idiot. That's like paying 8$/bottle for 'OHM water'...tap water that's been 'vibrated at the frequency of OOOHHMMM!!" That's all, please continue.

 

[dkmesa 10+ year member]

why so many fuses?

 

[xpl0it 10+ year member]

hmm, where the f am i gonna run another 0 awg to the front batt? Tell me this at least. At this point in my system, I'm running extreeeemely low on cash flow. Would you rather go a month or so with your stuff grounded to the chassis, with sound deadening, or would you rather forget the sound deadening and ground the 0 awg to the front battery? The reason I am asking is because they are both sort of expensive. running another 1/0 gauge ground up to the front is probably 50-70 bucks.

 

[djman37 5,000+ posts]

heh heh...when I first had my car wired, I spent $450. $50 labor--$400 parts/wire. The 0 ain't cheap, but the connectors were what bit me. Streetwires connectors and power/ground d-block at retail FTL of cash.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crying.gif.ec0ebefe590df0251476573bc49e46d8.gif

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

hmm, where the f am i gonna run another 0 awg to the front batt?

I managed it in a Neon without having to drill any holes in the firewall. I've got the wires run down the driver's side of the car in the corner where the floor and the door sill meet and you can't tell that there is anything there, much less 2 runs of 0ga.

Tell me this at least. At this point in my system, I'm running extreeeemely low on cash flow. Would you rather go a month or so with your stuff grounded to the chassis, with sound deadening, or would you rather forget the sound deadening and ground the 0 awg to the front battery? The reason I am asking is because they are both sort of expensive. running another 1/0 gauge ground up to the front is probably 50-70 bucks.

Honestly, there is no question in my mind; run the wire. Sound deadening won't keep your amps from shutting off. Sound deadening won't keep your amp running cooler. See where I'm going here?

 

[xpl0it 10+ year member]

Alright, bought some 1/0 from knukonceptz. The 5200 strand count appealed to me. I bought 15 feet of that, 12 feet of stinger expert 1/0 for my big 3 (i know i know, too much spent) and have 15 feet of stinger hpm 1/0 for power. I'm going to ground my optima yellow top with 4 runs of 1/0 because I have a huuuge excess amount of wire now, lol and will most likely run 2 runs of 1/0 from engine block to chassis. If I dont' do that, I will run 2 runs of 1/0 gauge from my alt to my batt.

 

[xpl0it 10+ year member]

Will I have a noticeable difference for my amplifier and output now that I'm grounding my amp to my hc2400 and my hc2400 to my optima?

 

[DarkFox 10+ year member]

Going to a slow blow fuse (one that acts the way Helo is talking) defeats the whole purpose of fusing. Amplifiers are sensitive, you only need to push them a little more then intended and you chance blowing a power transistor.

Helo, I corrected myself about the fuse in the back. why do you got to be a dick. You trying to impress someone? Holy crap, you can post a chart.. you got me good.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/clap.gif.178cba2c538c68e720c727fcb024b19c.gif How about next time you just say what you have to say instead of flaming other people.

I also did state that you were talking about Slow blow fuses. Which aperntly from your nice chart, you reinforced what I was saying. ANL are nice for systems, because if you get a real hard pump and pull something closer to the MAX powers alot of people try to claim (like the 27,000W sony amp rated at 500rms) then they will not blow the fuse and make you replace it for 1 second of bump. Downside is your letting your amps get away with more then intended. I would go with a fast blow fuse for the amplifier fuse for that reason. everything else I would do the slow blows so your charging system had a few seconds grace to get the bats re-charged.

I'm sorry if I offended anyone with anything I say. So much stuff in systems is personal opininon on how it should be done or what to use wear. I hate it when people try to specificaly target otheres for differance of opinons.