Alright, basically, woudl I have any issues with this electrical setup. The two kinetik batts are hc800 and hc2400. All Big 3 wire is 1/0 Stinger Expert series (new and great wire).
- Thread Starter
- #2
I just don't want any fuses popping because I didn't put enough amperage on the fuses. Also, I don't want any bottleneckingin my system. The only thing I could mayb ethink of would be to ground the hc800 to the yellow top.
why not just one hc2400 in the back?
- Thread Starter
- #4
I already own the hc800 and throwing it in would only benefit.
- Thread Starter
- #5
Does my fusing seem ample?
i assume it;s all 1/0 gauge wire? detail what 400 amps of fuses mean
- Thread Starter
- #7
Yes. I have a fused distribution block from stinger that has 1/0 input and 1/0 output and has dual ANL fusing, 200 amps X 2. Is this overkill? I don't think it is because i hear this amp can draw around 400 amps at times. Would the HC800 do any benefit at all, raise my voltage a little maybe? Or should I just ditch it and run the 2400?
imo i'd ditch it. if you are gonna run dual batteries atleast do the same kind. the hc2400 should be plenty and will be a lot easier to install. does the amp have an onboard fuses?
- Thread Starter
- #9
no
- Thread Starter
- #10
so 400 is too big eh?
- Thread Starter
- #11
the hc800 will not be a conflicting issue as far as installation, I have a battery rack and everything, but if it's going to do good, why not just keep it? I just want to keep my voltage as close to 14.4v as possible.
- Thread Starter
- #12
Anybody have suggestions?
imo adding that extra battery is just another strain on the alt. i get 14.5 volts at an idle at my amp and i don't even run a second battery
helotaxi
5,000+ posts
Kilroy was Here
You know that it takes 800A to blow a 400A fuse right? You can get away with a 300A if you're worried about it. You need to go ahead and ground the rear batteries back to the front if you plan to get the full benefit from that 220A alt. Otherwise your chassis will probably be bottleneck.
um if it takes 800A to blow a 400A fuse... it would be labeled 800A. In car audio applications most fusing is fast blow (so you get the benefit your supposed to get from a fuse) Going to a slow blow fuse (one that acts the way Helo is talking) defeats the whole purpose of fusing. Amplifiers are sensitive, you only need to push them a little more then intended and you chance blowing a power transistor. Take your total wattage your system can produce RMS then divide that number by 14 to figure out your amperage. Then add a few to give your self a small cushion and to take into account amp efficiency's. Ex. XX-Colossus =3200W 3200W / 14V = 228.6A (minimum) Why do some many people think the chassis is a bad place to ground? so long as you properly prep the area your grounding to in the back and the area your grounding to in the front (like when you do the big three) then the chassis can handle a MUCH larger amount of juice then the wire you run. It s a bunch of big sheets of metal. there is NO DIFFERENCE electronically between having a solid piece of wire and putting both ends to chassis. A connection is a connection, so long as there isn't resistance being added somehow, or insufficient material to handle the load. My two cents.
Oh yeah... You also have 2 200A fuses in series going to your back batteries which does NOTHING for you. Drop one of them. Also, your concerned about having to replace fuses... Why not go to circuit breakers. Like these. Good luck
Oh yeah... You also have 2 200A fuses in series going to your back batteries which does NOTHING for you. Drop one of them. Also, your concerned about having to replace fuses... Why not go to circuit breakers. Like these. Good luck
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Similar threads
- Started by masterblaster1
- General Car Audio
Featured
Does anybody know this AMP system?
- Started by アニメMrDanquer
- Amplifiers
- Started by Kybassbwoy
- Subwoofers
- Started by GambellaDiddler
- Speakers
About this thread
