Amp setup recommendation

I just bought a 10 inch Alpine SWR-10D2 dual 2ohm type-r sub,

1000w rms 3000w peak, dual coil (2ohmsx2ohms)

I also bought 2 Polk Audio DB6501 6-1/2 inch two way speakers with these specs:

Car Speaker Function Mid-Range Speaker, Speaker, Tweeter

Size 6.5"

Type Component Speaker System

Elements 2-Way

RMS Power 100 W

Min Frequency Response 35 Hz

Max Frequency Response 23 kHz

Impedance 4 ohm

Sensitivity 92 dB

Peak Power Handling 300 watt

I need to now get the amp situation figured out.

Should I get a separate monoblock amp for the sub along with a multichannel for the speakers or one amp for everything? And any recommendations on amps?

 
$200 or under. Is hifonics a good brand I was looking at those and they seem reasonably priced.
Only their brutus elite lines are worth a d@mn and to be honest, they are not worth their retail price. Its a budget brand that makes close to power but drains a crazy amount of energy from your vehicle's electrical system to do so, basically very inefficient and the electrical upgrades to run them cost more then a decent efficient amp to begin with. Moral of the story, dont cheap out on the amps. That soundqubed amp is extremely powerful and efficient, will put out much more then 1200 watts, good overhead room so you can avoid clipping and blowing your stuff. when black Friday comes along, you can expect a drastic price decrease on the 1200.1D, new with warranty.

 
Only their brutus elite lines are worth a d@mn and to be honest, they are not worth their retail price. Its a budget brand that makes close to power but drains a crazy amount of energy from your vehicle's electrical system to do so, basically very inefficient and the electrical upgrades to run them cost more then a decent efficient amp to begin with. Moral of the story, dont cheap out on the amps. That soundqubed amp is extremely powerful and efficient, will put out much more then 1200 watts, good overhead room so you can avoid clipping and blowing your stuff. when black Friday comes along, you can expect a drastic price decrease on the 1200.1D, new with warranty.

Thanks for the warning about hifonics. Guess I'm gonna wait for a deal then.

 
hey folks. I'm in a similar situation as the OP. I have a 10" DVC sub and two rear 6.5" speakers that i want to power off a single amp. i don't want to do separate amps for each. i'd prefer to get one amp that will power all 3 speakers. can't I do this with a 2 channel amp by bridging the two channels to power the sub and using the left right channels for the two rear speakers?

 
hey folks. I'm in a similar situation as the OP. I have a 10" DVC sub and two rear 6.5" speakers that i want to power off a single amp. i don't want to do separate amps for each. i'd prefer to get one amp that will power all 3 speakers. can't I do this with a 2 channel amp by bridging the two channels to power the sub and using the left right channels for the two rear speakers?
no you need a 3 channel amp or a 4 channel or a 5 channel amp, you need to know what ohms your subwoofer is. Doing what you are doing will screw everything up, bridging uses all channels, you have nothing left and trying to sneak it in will cause a really low impedance.

 
I'm actually thinking around 250 for both. I know it's not much, but I'm not looking for anything state of the art yet considering the fact that I have a 95 Corolla right now.
you have to make a decision, choose one or the other or else you'll get junky quality. Just do the subs amp first then do an amp later. Most likely your car audio equipment will outlive your car(if you dont clip it to death) so have good stuff from the get go and you can put all of it in your new car later on in life.

 
no you need a 3 channel amp or a 4 channel or a 5 channel amp, you need to know what ohms your subwoofer is. Doing what you are doing will screw everything up, bridging uses all channels, you have nothing left and trying to sneak it in will cause a really low impedance.
Kool. Thanks Jeff. I was reading other posts on this forum about bridging after i posted too. So if I go with a 4 channel amp i would run the two rear speakers off channels 1 & 2 then bridge channels 3 & 4 to run the sub right? the sub is a Cerwin Vega 10" DVC it can run at 2 ohms. specs are:

• 300W Peak/150W RMS

• 150W Peak/75W RMS Per Voice Coil (Dual Voice Coil)

• Frequency Response: 20-500Hz

• Impedance: 4 ohms (per voice coil)

 
Kool. Thanks Jeff. I was reading other posts on this forum about bridging after i posted too. So if I go with a 4 channel amp i would run the two rear speakers off channels 1 & 2 then bridge channels 3 & 4 to run the sub right? the sub is a Cerwin Vega 10" DVC it can run at 2 ohms. specs are: • 300W Peak/150W RMS

• 150W Peak/75W RMS Per Voice Coil (Dual Voice Coil)

• Frequency Response: 20-500Hz

• Impedance: 4 ohms (per voice coil)
you need a 3 channel or a 5 channel amp. You cannot do it with a 4 channel amp with that subwoofer because when you bridge a 4 channel amp, the lowest ohm load it can go is 4 ohms. Your subwoofer being wired to 2 ohms will fry the amp.

 
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