Amp Recommendation

Radiation

Junior Member
Hey all! Looking for a new amp to replace my precision power monoblock. Looking for 1000 watt RMS class D monoblock under 150$ with an fuse rating of 60A total. Currently pulling 140A when my alternator can only supply 120A. Getting some headlight dim and hoping this will resolve the problem plus its time to upgrade since my current amp isnt powering the sub completely.

 
Hey all! Looking for a new amp to replace my precision power monoblock. Looking for 1000 watt RMS class D monoblock under 150$ with an fuse rating of 60A total. Currently pulling 140A when my alternator can only supply 120A. Getting some headlight dim and hoping this will resolve the problem plus its time to upgrade since my current amp isnt powering the sub completely.
i have ppi p1k no dimming issue and it tested at 1162rms @ 2ohm, now have agm batt and maybe have more alt amps idk.. don't think u can get amp really does 1k and draw 60a or if u can i doubt it be $150.. does your alt put out good power how many volts and amps? u have good ground on amp (not paint under it)?

 
So my current setup is as follows:

Precision Power PPI BK650.1D powering a SWR-10D2 - Alpine 10" Dual 2-Ohm Type-R @ 1ohm

and

Autotek MM1550.4 powering four JBL GTO938 6 x 9-Inch 3-Way @ 2ohm

The sub has two Precision Power PPI C.3F in its line

All Wiring is 4 gage besides the wiring to the alternator.... think its 8 gage factory stuff.

OEM battery has also been replaces with a XS Power D1200.

All grounds in the system are solid metal to metal no paint, confirmed a few days ago.

The dimming only happens at mid - high volume because thats when most power is being consumed (duh). My first though was that the total Amps of the fuses on the amps add up to 140 Amp while my alternator only puts out 120 Amp. So the solution in my head was to get an amp with lower amperage but similar to more wattage. My second solution was the big 3 but i think that would cause just more dimming as more power would be consumed through the larger cable.

 
I'll have to give that a look into. Currently it's only the headlights but I had more headlight dim plus some internal light dimming noticable at night but caps helped there. Still wanting to pick up a 1000 amp to match the sub but I'm wondering if it'll make the issue worse.

 
i have ppi p1k no dimming issue and it tested at 1162rms @ 2ohm, now have agm batt and maybe have more alt amps idk.. don't think u can get amp really does 1k and draw 60a or if u can i doubt it be $150.. does your alt put out good power how many volts and amps? u have good ground on amp (not paint under it)?
Yeah, getting 1k watts from 60 amps is gonna take a crazy efficient amp, and for under 150? Pretty tall order

 
I'll have to give that a look into. Currently it's only the headlights but I had more headlight dim plus some internal light dimming noticable at night but caps helped there. Still wanting to pick up a 1000 amp to match the sub but I'm wondering if it'll make the issue worse.
just a thought what is your gain set at? do u have bass boost turned up on hu or amp do u have sub volume on hu at max and do u turn hu volume all the way up?

 
I had 2ga run to rear with big 3 on a 90 amp alt with 2 Oriley Super Start AGM batts,with 1500-1750 2 ohms mono@full tilt and approx.150x2 2ohms on front stage, and approx 40x2 rms rear stage @4ohm stereo,and never had any issues with dimming in my 98 crv, with the ELD bypass.Get that big3 done, and get a decent battery or two(AGMs)and run a nice supply line and you shouldnt have issues.It takes power to generate power

 
I'll look into the big 3 this weekend, I have plenty of spare 4 gauge wire laying around (or I'll pick up some 1/0). I'm running a XS Power D1200 as my battery, I'd have to image that would be sufficient for the electrical system. Any thoughts on the Hifonics Brutus BRX1116.1D I posted earlier? Comparing the amp specs to my current Precision Power PPI BK650.1D, the Brutus appears to be better in most cases.

 

definitely do the big 3. Dont even consider not doing it. Youll not find anyone on here thats averse to the idea of the big 3 if youre running anything near 1k watts. Youll get some who will say that its not necessary, but you wont find anyone who is against the idea.

I sold a guy an A/D/S/ PS5 back in the day that he had installed by a shop (he had the shop install it because he had to have custom kicks made for the diamond audio 6.5s anyways) and they did a 4 gauge kit to a distro block so the 8 gauge run was as short as possible and they did the big 3 even on just that one amp.

 
Whats your recommended wiring size for the big 3? Would 4 be fine or would 1/0 be the go-to?

Does anyone have thoughts on that Brutus amp though, or has anyone had any good/bad experiences with Hifonics?

 
i saw that video a few weeks ago and went to the mfgs site, tons of bad reviews on longevity of the product. People loved how they worked WHEN they worked, but i saw many reviews that said they died in a very short while


definitely do the big 3. Dont even consider not doing it. Youll not find anyone on here thats averse to the idea of the big 3 if youre running anything near 1k watts. Youll get some who will say that its not necessary, but you wont find anyone who is against the idea.

I sold a guy an A/D/S/ PS5 back in the day that he had installed by a shop (he had the shop install it because he had to have custom kicks made for the diamond audio 6.5s anyways) and they did a 4 gauge kit to a distro block so the 8 gauge run was as short as possible and they did the big 3 even on just that one amp.
I'm not necessarily recommending that brand, but I'm recommending the idea.

 
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Radiation

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