Amp Reccomendations for Memphis Mojo 12

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hence why i said to get the 8k


probably was clipping the $hit out of it...

charge it up and see what kind of voltage it maintains. Good batt
But I feel like the 8k is waaaay too much. I just want to have a good amount of wiggle room, not an airfield. It definitely clipped it to death haha. How would I charge a battery like that? Hook it up to my car while it's running?

 
Once you find a designer to help you get a good box, he'll ask your preference of tune, and go from there if you plan to build your own box. Or if you prefer someone to build box, then you can tell that person your tune preference also.
I forgot to mention that someone also gave me their old box as well. It is a really wide ported box (~2'x2'x5') that was custom made to hold a sundown x12 v2. Is it a bag idea to use a custom box for the sub it was not intended for?

 
I forgot to mention that someone also gave me their old box as well. It is a really wide ported box (~2'x2'x5') that was custom made to hold a sundown x12 v2. Is it a bag idea to use a custom box for the sub it was not intended for?
That would depend upon the enclosure cu ft and if it fits within range of that sub's requirements that your building.

 
To power that mojo you should look for an amp that can reliably make 2500-3000w at 1ohm.

Can the sub take more power? Yes it can but with your current experience level I fear you would only be reconing the sub a lot faster than you want.

As far as room for an upgrade? Well you would need to specify the upgrade. Can a 2500w amp power 2 2500w subs? Sure it can it will simply split the power to 1250w each, but then you are not reaching the full potential of the subs. Is that a bad thing? Well it depends, if you want to move more air or hit lower notes, more cone area will do it. But if you want much louder you need more power with more cone area.

3000w is a lot of power for an average user. A typical 3000w amp can draw anywhere from 320-375amps of current from you batteries and alternator. This is why it was stated above to go with the biggest alt you could afford. Batteries can offset the lower alt ratings but you lose power allowing the voltage to drop from 14.4v to 12v. Not only that, the batteries can only supply 12v for so long before the alt had to recharge them. If your amp is drawing 300 amps and you have a 300amp alt you car will still draw 20-50amp for its functions which will inevitably pull the voltage down and drain the batts.

But there is a silver lining. If you are listening to music, the amperage draw of the amplifier will not be consistent and it may only draw 300amps for a few seconds and allow the alt to charge the batts back up in between bass notes.

My recommendation:

A 220-250amp alt or bigger if possible.

A good Agm battery under the hood (the largest that will safely fit)

A group 31 battery located as near to the amp as possible.

You may need to add more batts as needed to stop voltage drop.

Do the big 3 upgrade in 1/0 ofc wire

Run 1/0 ofc for the amp and rear battery.

Ensure a good ground if using the body/frame as the grounding point.

Set the gains properly (this is the most important part)

I would also be curious as to what kind of box you are using because prefab **** for the most part and custom is the way to go, save a few good prefab makers.

 
Would these amps leave room for sub upgrades? What is the max rms wattage sub you can safely run on each of these?
For everyone's enjoyment, here's the amp that blew the mojo //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rotflol.gif.b453361716769b8110ddefc85ff03cd2.gif
https://imgur.com/a/pHNGx
But I feel like the 8k is waaaay too much. I just want to have a good amount of wiggle room, not an airfield. It definitely clipped it to death haha. How would I charge a battery like that? Hook it up to my car while it's running?
you dont know anyone with a slowcharge batt charger? Throw it out there to your friends on facespace. Im fortunate enough that my folks have one and live about 3 miles from me LoL

 
you dont know anyone with a slowcharge batt charger? Throw it out there to your friends on facespace. Im fortunate enough that my folks have one and live about 3 miles from me LoL
Wait a second, I just realized that my family owns one. xDD

 
To power that mojo you should look for an amp that can reliably make 2500-3000w at 1ohm.
Can the sub take more power? Yes it can but with your current experience level I fear you would only be reconing the sub a lot faster than you want.

As far as room for an upgrade? Well you would need to specify the upgrade. Can a 2500w amp power 2 2500w subs? Sure it can it will simply split the power to 1250w each, but then you are not reaching the full potential of the subs. Is that a bad thing? Well it depends, if you want to move more air or hit lower notes, more cone area will do it. But if you want much louder you need more power with more cone area.

3000w is a lot of power for an average user. A typical 3000w amp can draw anywhere from 320-375amps of current from you batteries and alternator. This is why it was stated above to go with the biggest alt you could afford. Batteries can offset the lower alt ratings but you lose power allowing the voltage to drop from 14.4v to 12v. Not only that, the batteries can only supply 12v for so long before the alt had to recharge them. If your amp is drawing 300 amps and you have a 300amp alt you car will still draw 20-50amp for its functions which will inevitably pull the voltage down and drain the batts.

But there is a silver lining. If you are listening to music, the amperage draw of the amplifier will not be consistent and it may only draw 300amps for a few seconds and allow the alt to charge the batts back up in between bass notes.

My recommendation:

A 220-250amp alt or bigger if possible.

A good Agm battery under the hood (the largest that will safely fit)

A group 31 battery located as near to the amp as possible.

You may need to add more batts as needed to stop voltage drop.

Do the big 3 upgrade in 1/0 ofc wire

Run 1/0 ofc for the amp and rear battery.

Ensure a good ground if using the body/frame as the grounding point.

Set the gains properly (this is the most important part)

I would also be curious as to what kind of box you are using because prefab **** for the most part and custom is the way to go, save a few good prefab makers.
Thanks for the reply. If I have a 2 ohm sub with 1800rms, shouldn't I have an amp as you described, but rather at 2ohms? I thought it was hard to overpower a sub?

Most of my music has hard bass then breaks between, so I think there would be time for the alt to charge the batts back up.

Where is the 14.4v number coming from? I'm confused. I thought car batteries ran at 12v?

Are AGM batteries usually the premium ones at autostores?

Can I just drop in an XS Power battery under my hood?

Why a group 31 battery?

Does 1/0 just mean 0 gauge?

Is OFC the standard for car audio?

I'll send a pic of the box eventually

 
I think I found the right battery brand for under my hood

Starting Archives - XS Power

Should I get the D series or S series for my engine battery? S series comes with automotive posts, so I should get one of those right? They don't say what BCI group the batteries are, so should I just go off of their dimensions and get the biggest one possible for my car which takes type 35?

If I get a secondary battery, I'm assuming I should get a D series of some size?

 
Thanks for the reply. If I have a 2 ohm sub with 1800rms, shouldn't I have an amp as you described, but rather at 2ohms? this is why im advising for you to get an amp thatll do waaaay more than you need at 1 ohm becuasae youll be running at 2

I thought it was hard to overpower a sub? it is, but its easy to over drive a sub

Most of my music has hard bass then breaks between, so I think there would be time for the alt to charge the batts back up.

Where is the 14.4v number coming from? alternator output voltage

I'm confused. I thought car batteries ran at 12v? they do

Are AGM batteries usually the premium ones at autostores? no, agm batteries have Absorbent Glass Mat inside vs conventional lead acid

Can I just drop in an XS Power battery under my hood? probably

Why a group 31 battery?

group #'s in car batteries defined below

 

BCI Group Number determines following physical parameters:

 

* Maximum Dimension of battery; Length, width and height.

 

* Voltage of the battery

 

* Terminal types

 

* Configuration

Does 1/0 just mean 0 gauge? basically

Is OFC the standard for car audio? if it isnt, it should be. OFC = Oxygen Free Copper vs CCA = Copper Clad Aluminum. The former is better, but youll see kits out there talking about how much wattage they can handle but will be CCA. SoundQubed wiring kits are mostly CCA, and they (as a brand) should know better than to use that stuff

I'll send a pic of the box eventually

 
Thanks for the reply. If I have a 2 ohm sub with 1800rms, shouldn't I have an amp as you described, but rather at 2ohms? I thought it was hard to overpower a sub? If you have a dual 2 ohm sub you can wire to 1ohm dual 4 down to 2ohm.

Overpowering a sub is difficult but clipping the sub is very easy and creates heat faster than overpowering. Having headroom does not hurt.

Most of my music has hard bass then breaks between, so I think there would be time for the alt to charge the batts back up.

Where is the 14.4v number coming from? I'm confused. I thought car batteries ran at 12v?

Cars typically charge batteries at 14.4v. Batteries hold roughly 12.8v when not being charged. Higher voltage means more power when amps are designed for such voltage

Are AGM batteries usually the premium ones at autostores?

Typically yes but double check first.

Can I just drop in an XS Power battery under my hood?

If you want to spend that much yes you can

Agm is Absorbed glass matt. This type of battery is safer inside of vehicle and typically holds more power if even slightly

Why a group 31 battery?

It is a large battery you want as much ah rating as you can fit or afford

Does 1/0 just mean 0 gauge?

Yes same thing

Is OFC the standard for car audio?

Yes and no. Ofc stands for oxygen free copper and is much better than the other option, cca or copper clad aluminum

I'll send a pic of the box eventually
Answers above

 
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