yeah i mean peeps just say stuff lol.. like jeffro said good clamp test is only way to know what u getting in your car on your amp, subs/box set up but dyno is only way to get idea of what an average amp of that model will do.. now there maybe some companies showed dyno's of amps they sell that are a tad suspect or at least they may only show dynamic #'s or something but ryan ain't go no reason to lie or mess with the results, he*l he buys the amps with his $ to test them.. your amp may do 1559 or 1688 but a decent dyno shows u whats that amp can do at same voltage, so if u see a test at 14.3v and u drop down to 13.2 then no u ain't gonna get same power..Considering my amp bench tested at 1600RMS, certified (Or whatever it’s called), and I will only run it at 40%, theoretically the CAB 1600.1 amp shouldn’t be working hard at all. I guess I’ll just see how it goes. If it sounds impressive without an amp upgrade, I suppose Ill just let it be for now.
Guy at the Audio shop is trying to tell me those bench tests are garbage and inconclusive though, which is aggravating. He seriously believes that my amp is not producing 1600w RMS and in “ the real world”, that bench test means nothing.
It's way more than power consumption/output. Reactive loads work different with transducers.yeah i mean peeps just say stuff lol.. like jeffro said good clamp test is only way to know what u getting in your car on your amp, subs/box set up but dyno is only way to get idea of what an average amp of that model will do.. now there maybe some companies showed dyno's of amps they sell that are a tad suspect or at least they may only show dynamic #'s or something but ryan ain't go no reason to lie or mess with the results, he*l he buys the amps with his $ to test them.. your amp may do 1559 or 1688 but a decent dyno shows u whats that amp can do at same voltage, so if u see a test at 14.3v and u drop down to 13.2 then no u ain't gonna get same power..
********. If you want to lean I'll be happy.Although I am no expert, I have done a lot of reading about amplifier damping factor. Here is an article that basically states/proves it means nothing. The physical speaker parameters have far more affect than the amplifiers electrical damping factor. Damping Factor: Effects On System Response | Audioholics
Here is a good blog about the subject from audiofrog.
https://www.audiofrog.com/community/tech-tips/damping-factor-and-why-it-isnt-much-of-a-factor-2/
You guys are obviously welcome to form your own opinion‘s about this. I am only stating my opinion based on what I have learned from these articles.
Best thing to do is to get an amplifier that is 125% more powerful than the top RMS rating of the subwoofer(s) you want. Ryan’s amp dyno videos using the certified tests are a good place to start.
I’m not trying to do a budget build though. I am looking for the best sound quality I can get (Unless the speaker is over $1,000). I have plenty of power for now, I was just asking about a higher quality amp to upgrade to down the road.
It's all in the install just because I suggest that are high quality.I’m not trying to do a budget build though. I am looking for the best sound quality I can get (Unless the speaker is over $1,000). I have plenty of power for now, I was just asking about a higher quality amp to upgrade to down the road.
Lol, you mean learn and I do want to learn so I’m willing to listen. Probably should start a new thread for this one though. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/popcorn.gif.32dd9e22fd77e77bc3c907062768fcd2.gif********. If you want to lean I'll be happy.
First I'll introduce you to reactive loads..Lol, you mean learn and I do want to learn so I’m willing to listen. Probably should start a new thread for this one though. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/popcorn.gif.32dd9e22fd77e77bc3c907062768fcd2.gif
Sounds like something that happened to me while dating my first girlfriend.First I'll introduce you to reactive loads..