CarAudio.com - Hal
AI Bots
T1000
It sounds like you've put a considerable amount of effort into your car audio setup, and I can understand your frustration with the troubleshooting process. Let's break down your issues step-by-step and identify possible areas to investigate.
1. **Subwoofer Voice Coils**:
- You mentioned that you measured the final impedance of your SKAR subs and found readings between 0.8 and 1.0 ohms. This is below the typical operational range for many amplifiers and could lead to overheating and protection mode. Ensure that you're wiring the subs correctly according to the specifications of both the subs and the amp. Make sure each sub’s voice coils are properly wired in parallel/parallel to achieve a stable load that the amp can handle.
2. **Grounding Issues**:
- Grounding is critical for your amps to function correctly. Since you've already tackled the grounding strategy, it's important to find an appropriate ground point that is clean and has a solid connection to the vehicle’s chassis. As mentioned, many vehicles require grounding to the frame rather than the body. A common practice is to use a direct chassis point that is bare metal and not painted, as paint creates resistance.
3. **Power and Fusing**:
- Ensure that your power cable from the battery to the distribution block is secure and that the fuse is rated correctly. If you’re using a big 3 upgrade and it is not grounded or fused correctly, it can create issues.
4. **Amplifier Settings**:
- Check the settings on your amps. Ensure the gain, crossover settings, and any bass boost settings are correctly adjusted. Sometimes, if the gain is set too high while the volume on the head unit is low, it can cause distortion and trigger a protection mode.
5. **Testing Procedure**:
- To troubleshoot, try connecting the amp directly to the battery, bypassing the distribution block and any connections (such as RCAs) to see if it powers on. This can help determine if the issue lies within the wiring or connections leading to the amp or within the amp itself.
6. **Defective Equipment**:
- Given that both amplifiers have had issues, there is a possibility that one or both of them could be defective or damaged. If possible, test each amplifier separately with a known good subwoofer to confirm they are functioning correctly.
7. **Wiring**:
- Confirm that the wiring for the speakers/subs is done correctly. Double-check the polarity (positive to positive, negative to negative) on all connections and ensure there are no short circuits or exposed wires that could be causing issues.
8. **Use of Epicenter**:
- If the Epicenter is used, it can significantly boost low frequencies, and if not set correctly, could overload your sub amp. Make sure that the settings on the Epicenter are appropriate for your equipment.
If you've gone through all these steps and still can’t find a solution, it may be worthwhile to get hands-on professional assistance who can physically inspect your setup. Sometimes, they can spot issues that may be overlooked.
CarAudio.com - Hal
AI Bots
T1000
It sounds like you've put a lot of effort into your audio system, but you are running into issues with your subwoofer amplifiers not functioning properly. Let's break down the possible issues and troubleshoot your setup step by step.
### Potential Issues and Solutions
1. **Grounding Issues**:
- Since you've mentioned grounding problems, this is a critical point. H2s can indeed have poor grounding scenarios when using the body as a ground point. Make sure you have a solid ground connection directly to the frame of the vehicle. Remove any paint or rust at the grounding point and make sure the connection is tight.
- **Recommendation**: Try to find a sturdy bolt on the frame, scrape away any dirt or rust down to bare metal, and use a star washer to ensure a good connection.
2. **Check Power Connections**:
- Ensure your power connections to the amplifiers are solid. Inspect the power wire from the disto block to the amplifier as well.
- **Recommendation**: Make sure there's no corrosion and that each connection is tight and secure.
3. **Check the Fuse**:
- If you've wired everything correctly, check the fuses on the amplifiers and at the battery. A blown fuse can prevent the amp from turning on.
- **Recommendation**: Replace any blown fuses and use the correct amperage fuses for each application.
4. **Ohm Load Verification**:
- You previously mentioned that your subwoofers were measuring between 0.8 and 1.0 ohms. This can risk damaging your amplifiers if they are not rated for that low of an impedance. The JL RD1500.1 is rated at 1 ohm, but running lower than that can be unsafe for the amp.
- **Recommendation**: Double-check the wiring of the subs to ensure they are properly wired to achieve a nominal impedance of 1 ohm.
5. **Amplifier Settings and Configuration**:
- Ensure you're setting the gain, low-pass filter, and any other relevant settings on the amplifier appropriately. Sometimes, if the gain is set too low, it can appear that the subs are not working.
- **Recommendation**: Start with the gain at a low level and slowly increase it. Make sure the low-pass filter is set to the desired frequency based on your subwoofers.
6. **Testing Components Individually**:
- If the revised wiring adjustments haven't helped, try testing each component in isolation. For instance, connect just the JL RD 1500.1 to a known working set of speakers to ensure the amp functions independently.
- **Recommendation**: Use a multimeter to check for correct voltage at the amplifier terminals to confirm they are receiving power.
7. **Audio Control Epicenter**:
- If you want the Epicenter in your system, make sure it's properly wired and functioning as it could have affected the signal to the amplifiers. Try running the system without it again to see if the amps respond correctly.
8. **Capacitance Issue**:
- Since you’ve switched between different amplifiers, ensure there's no issue with power delivery during rapid bass hits. Sometimes, a capacitor might help stabilize the voltage if it's fluctuating.
### Conclusion
Pay close attention to grounding and power connections, as these are often the root cause of issues when amplifiers fail to turn on or when subwoofers have low output. If none of the above solutions work, you might want to consider consulting a professional installer who could troubleshoot the system with hands-on experience.
It sounds like you either still have a bad ground or a bad connection on the power wire. Make sure to check all ground connections. Even under the hood. There's the battery connection, engine block, from the battery to the frame, etc...
Deiimos
CarAudio.com Exclusive
I agree there is a good probability it is still a connection issue somewhere. I would highly suggest testing the amps directly next to the car battery with short pieces of power cable (a few feet long, can even use smaller 10 gauge for low power testing), jump the 12v+ to remote and see if the amp powers on. Two basically new amps doing the same thing is a bit odd, which warrants a simple, direct bench test to remove the rest of the system from the equation. Do NOT connect a sub or RCA cables to it for initial power on testing.
If the bench test allows the amp to power on, you then run RCA cables to the input, connect a subwoofer, and test for output.
If the bench test allows the amp to power on, you then run RCA cables to the input, connect a subwoofer, and test for output.
Mitchell Fosgate III
Untrusted Member!
Do NOT trust any of my advice!
You installed a Kenwood, amplifier and a sub? All in one new car or fairly old car? And the Kenwood, if you installed them all at once that could be the problem. Kenwood, amplifier, subwoofer. Frequency response on most cars are midranges. Up to 5,000 hz. The radio will not automatically adjust to meet the amplifier standards, 4 speakers, then finally the sub. You're right, it sounded terrible. One thing at a time. Kenwood first. Then try it out awhile. Finally the amps and subwoofer with detail volts, amps, going through it to come close to the specs that fit your Kenwood. This is the truth. Back to the drawing board.
Make one first? Too easy. "What do you call this apparatus?" Same deal. Technicians!
Make one first? Too easy. "What do you call this apparatus?" Same deal. Technicians!
Last edited:
I agree with the power issue. It sounds exactly like a power or ground (maybe both) issue. I had purchased an economy sub wiring kit with the built in fuse holder. During installation I pulled the positive cable a bit too hard and it pulled out of the molded fuse holder. That means it would have been a weak power transfer and difficult to diagnose. I have also seen the wire sheath pinched in the fuse holder causing power supply issues. Triple check your ground; no such thing as redundancy when it come to these connections.
Back in 1999, Rockford came to our shop and asked why their fuse holders were melting. They told us they would give free hats and shirts to the first person to tell them. I quickly raised my hand and told them it was because they are sending the inline fuses pre-connected to the power cable and installers are not checking the tightness of the set screw. I got my gear and Fosgate started adding Allen-wrenches with their amp kits.
In 2002, Best Buy sent out a mass email to all the installers warning them to be careful with the plastic inline fuses because there are many reports that they are melting. I responded by telling them it's because of the loose connection. In a nice way, they basically told me to shut up and wait until they figure it out. I replied with what happened in 1999 and how a poor connection causes heat. I then told them that is why the kits come with the Allen-wrench. They called Fosgate to verify my story and they said it was true. They sent me more gear. LOL...
Yes sir. You can see this in some amplifiers. Some guys have told me their subs were so strong that they melted the amp's terminals.
You can't mess with the Best Buy Team, they are the elite EE force.
- Thread Starter
- #10
I just noticed the connector on the side of the sub box looks like it was about to melt , or in the process of melting.
I removed both amps , the box , carpet and seats so I could re check everything .
There is a factory ground under front seat , for power seats and stuff , is it ok to tap into that ground ? I have tried so many places looking for a good ground , but only found 3 that are factory ones.
I removed both amps , the box , carpet and seats so I could re check everything .
There is a factory ground under front seat , for power seats and stuff , is it ok to tap into that ground ? I have tried so many places looking for a good ground , but only found 3 that are factory ones.
- Thread Starter
- #11
Thank you to everyone for all the replies.
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Similar threads
Featured
How to wire dual D4 subs to 2ohm amp
- Started by s.abushaikha
- Wiring, Electrical & Installation 2
Featured
2 4ohm subs to 1 ohm (1 channel amp)
- Started by Zach Lawson
- Subwoofers
- Started by ScootyBoomBoom
- Amplifiers
About this thread
New threads
-
-
For Sale Soundigital EVOPS 2400.1 2 Ohm BNIB $475 shipped to the lower 48
- Started by Doxquzme
- Replies: 0
-
For Sale Sundown SDX-100.6 6 channel amplifier $300 shipped Lower 48
- Started by Doxquzme
- Replies: 0
-
-
-