Amp help

Troponin

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So I think I have decided to just go with the Focal 10s (Unless someone tells me that the Focal 12 sounds so good, I can save a crap load of money just doing a single 12). The place installing these compete with Focal and do really, really well. I am hoping since I am going this route, they know how to get the best performance out of these speakers. Actually, if I do the 12, I can get the amp and the 12 at the same time, where as, with the two 10s, I will have to upgrade later.

That being said, I still like to have the opinions of others here. It gives me a way to know if someone is pulling my leg for a sale.

I want to eventually get out of my CAB 1600.1 and replace it with something “cleaner”, if there is such a thing. I mean, does a 1600w amp that has been bench tested at 1600W RMS not deliver “clean” power if you’re only pushing it by 50%? This is where I start to get confused. Is a 1,000W kicker or Pioneer going to be “clean”, or am I going to be back in the same situation?

Can y’all give me some ideas on what kind of amps I should be looking for? The Focals are rated at 600W RMS for the 10s and 800W RMS for the 12.

So what amps are “clean”?

 
some can argue that class a or ab sound better than a d class amp , but it would be imperceivable on a sub. Really people can't discern below 3 percent distortion.

 
[quote name='BOOMINGRANDPA']ask @bigblank69 about clean amps.. do u wanta stay around 1600-2k at 1 ohm?[/QUOTE]

If I remember correctly, I probably want an amp that pushes about twice what I need, correct? 1200W RMS would probably work for the 10s, but the 12 would probably need about 1600, right?

1600W RMS amp will probably get a bit salty, but I assume I could find a good one for under $1,000.

After all, if it’s as “clean” and “dirty” as some make it out to be, then 1000w of clean power should be better than 1600 of dirty...
 
some can argue that class a or ab sound better than a d class amp , but it would be imperceivable on a sub. Really people can't discern below 3 percent distortion.
Straight distortion your correct, you really won't hear it on Subs... But damping factor is a different story, a amp with a high damping factor will sound less "Sloppy" for Bass than an Amp with a low damping factor even if the THD and Wattage is the same.

 
If I remember correctly, I probably want an amp that pushes about twice what I need, correct? 1200W RMS would probably work for the 10s, but the 12 would probably need about 1600, right?
1600W RMS amp will probably get a bit salty, but I assume I could find a good one for under $1,000.

After all, if it’s as “clean” and “dirty” as some make it out to be, then 1000w of clean power should be better than 1600 of dirty...
yeah but if u get a ok amp that has 1600-2krms and set gain low amp doesn't have to run as hard as if u ran 1k amp maxed maybe close to as "clean" like blank said depends on you budget look for amp does power u want that has high dampening factor, controls sub better.. u may like the wolfram 1500 blank just tested, did 1600.. it's Korean board like twisted sounds https://www.wolframaudio.com/collections/w-series-monoblock-amplifiers/products/w-1500-1

 
Although I am no expert, I have done a lot of reading about amplifier damping factor. Here is an article that basically states/proves it means nothing. The physical speaker parameters have far more affect than the amplifiers electrical damping factor. Damping Factor: Effects On System Response | Audioholics

Here is a good blog about the subject from audiofrog.

https://www.audiofrog.com/community/tech-tips/damping-factor-and-why-it-isnt-much-of-a-factor-2/

You guys are obviously welcome to form your own opinion‘s about this. I am only stating my opinion based on what I have learned from these articles.

Best thing to do is to get an amplifier that is 125% more powerful than the top RMS rating of the subwoofer(s) you want. Ryan’s amp dyno videos using the certified tests are a good place to start.

 
yeah but if u get a ok amp that has 1600-2krms and set gain low amp doesn't have to run as hard as if u ran 1k amp maxed maybe close to as "clean" like blank said depends on you budget look for amp does power u want that has high dampening factor, controls sub better.. u may like the wolfram 1500 blank just tested, did 1600.. it's Korean board like twisted sounds https://www.wolframaudio.com/collections/w-series-monoblock-amplifiers/products/w-1500-1
Considering my amp bench tested at 1600RMS, certified (Or whatever it’s called), and I will only run it at 40%, theoretically the CAB 1600.1 amp shouldn’t be working hard at all. I guess I’ll just see how it goes. If it sounds impressive without an amp upgrade, I suppose Ill just let it be for now.

Guy at the Audio shop is trying to tell me those bench tests are garbage and inconclusive though, which is aggravating. He seriously believes that my amp is not producing 1600w RMS and in “ the real world”, that bench test means nothing.

 
Bench test mean everything that dude is a douche you should kick him in his balls and then run like a preacher chasing a 12 year old just kidding but seriously though in the real world your amp is probably not producing 1600 W bench test are just something to give you an idea of how much power an amp can actually produce under perfect conditions that is why you want to run an amp that is a lot more powerful than your subwoofer because after box rise and efficiency loss your amp does not put out it's rated power unless it is crazy underrated a good example of this would be the Twisted sounds 2.8 k that amp actually bench test around 4000 W so in real world conditions it's very possible that you will see the 2.8 K rating but most amps are not rated this way

 
Considering my amp bench tested at 1600RMS, certified (Or whatever it’s called), and I will only run it at 40%, theoretically the CAB 1600.1 amp shouldn’t be working hard at all. I guess I’ll just see how it goes. If it sounds impressive without an amp upgrade, I suppose Ill just let it be for now.
Guy at the Audio shop is trying to tell me those bench tests are garbage and inconclusive though, which is aggravating. He seriously believes that my amp is not producing 1600w RMS and in “ the real world”, that bench test means nothing.
I would stay away from that audio shop if he told me those things. It's pretty important to do bench tests....gives people the actual truth about how inflated some of the amps rms are. And some that can do rated or above.

 
I would stay away from that audio shop if he told me those things. It's pretty important to do bench tests....gives people the actual truth about how inflated some of the amps rms are. And some that can do rated or above.
Depends on what he means but they are pretty pointless when. It comes to sound repriduction

 
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