amp and sub matches that are good

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

would you recommend getting the 2 ohm set or the 4 ohm set. i read that the 2 will be louder but not the best bass sound and that the 4 will have a better response

Running @2 ohms mono would prob be a little easier on the electrical in that car. It will still get down pretty good with a tuned ported enclosure with that Smart3.Two DVC 2 ohm subs will get you to 2 ohms at a final load.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

now i need to see if i want to go to some bigger speakers in the doors of this sentra2015. i have 2 kicker 100 rms in front door2 ways, and the rear deck is fixing to come out , i have 2 80 aatt alpu es there. wonder if 2 sets of 6.5 150 to 200 watt speakers will fit all the doors and then i need an amp that can push them.

These will sound really nice up front. You could place the Coax up front also and this is a good amp for all the speakers and is on Sale atm

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071G8K9SK/?tag=caraudiocom-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0971MY7T9/?tag=caraudiocom-20

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

what is the amp stable at, and which 10's to get(2or4)ohm

Buy dual 4 ohm subs and the one ohm amp.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Nobody asked OP precisely how much space he has for a box yet?

 

[watcher6342]

What is your budget? What is the electrical for the supply for the demand? Look on GP Audio for a Glue and Screw Ported enclosure

with the taraamp would the 250 alternator be enough

 

[watcher6342]

Nobody asked OP precisely how much space he has for a box yet?

2015 sentra sr. its about 37.5 on the width

 

[watcher6342]

with the taraamp would the 250 alternator be enough

i also looked at the glue and screw kits. with this amount of wattage, should i be getting the high output kit, or the compact kit. i hve about 37.3 inches on the width and at 33hz, i think the high output comes to 36.0 inches.

 

[watcher6342]

i also looked at the glue and screw kits. with this amount of wattage, should i be getting the high output kit, or the compact kit. i hve about 37.3 inches on the width and at 33hz, i think the high output comes to 36.0 inches.

i went ahead and biught the taraamp and two americanbass1044 xfl 4 ohms. i have the 0 gauge kit here already and as soon as i get some more info and details, i will get the alternator and speakerbox kit. after that, then the battery

 

[watcher6342]

amazon was out of the 1022's, so i went with the 1044's. i should be able to get them down to 2 ohm and all will be good, if it gets too hot i can go back to 4 ohm.. isnt that how it works?

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

amazon was out of the 1022's, so i went with the 1044's. i should be able to get them down to 2 ohm and all will be good, if it gets too hot i can go back to 4 ohm.. isnt that how it works?

Did you buy two of them? If you did then you can wire to one ohm.

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

amazon was out of the 1022's, so i went with the 1044's. i should be able to get them down to 2 ohm and all will be good, if it gets too hot i can go back to 4 ohm.. isnt that how it works?

Just be sure your electrical is all good...ofc on the big 3 and ofc on your power and ground runs...and wire down to where you get what you need...keep an eye out for voltage drop in the rear...

 

[watcher6342]

Did you buy two of them? If you did then you can wire to one ohm.

yes, 2 1044's and the taraamp..will have to look ip a video on wiring dvc, only have used scv before. like i said, its all new to me and learning as i go.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

2015 sentra sr. its about 37.5 on the width

First of all, you're looking to match subs to box VOLUME. Subs in too little airspace will perform poorly. Also if you're building something to put into a trunk, internal dimensions of the trunk may or may not tell you how big of a box you can actually squeeze through the opening.

Whatever you're building, mock it up and confirm you can get it in there before you glue, screw, and finish.

 

[watcher6342]

Just be sure your electrical is all good...ofc on the big 3 and ofc on your power and ground runs...and wire down to where you get what you need...keep an eye out for voltage drop in the rear...

yes. i have 2 ofc 0 gauge kits, that way there is plenty if i screw up. i am just making a jump in power on everything. i have 4 gauge for system i have now. i will just duplicate everything in 0 gauge, and before i install amp and speakers, i will buy the 250 alternator. im hoping that will be enough to push both amps.

 

[watcher6342]

First of all, you're looking to match subs to box VOLUME. Subs in too little airspace will perform poorly. Also if you're building something to put into a trunk, internal dimensions of the trunk may or may not tell you how big of a box you can actually squeeze through the opening.

Whatever you're building, mock it up and confirm you can get it in there before you glue, screw, and finish.

audioban suggested i look at the screw it and glue it kits on gp audio. i still need to check box to subs and see what i have for vol. yes, ive seen a few videos where they misjudged the box and couldnt get it in the trunk. ive had 3 back surgeries and a fourth on the way. i take my time and if i have to build it in the trunk, then so be it. im not yanking on something unless i have to. thats why i asked if i needed to go with the compact or the high output. its a 4 inch width difference.