alternator Q

Does your car have a solid frame, or is it a unibody? If unibody, you will want to run your engine ground directly to your battery in trunk. I would recommend this anyways, since you already bought the wire.

 
lol
i been doing electrical work for 10+ years and youll be suprised what you may see and hear lol[/quote I cant argue with ya there bro.. I worked local 103 Boston for 10 years and seen some RIDICULOUS sheeeat.. when it comes to alts though that rubber boot is a pretty good indicator.. good luck with ur setup bro.
 
lol
i been doing electrical work for 10+ years and youll be suprised what you may see and hear lol[/quote I cant argue with ya there bro.. I worked local 103 Boston for 10 years and seen some RIDICULOUS sheeeat.. when it comes to alts though that rubber boot is a pretty good indicator.. good luck with ur setup bro.
i didnt ask the question but thanks lol i am working on a build tho of my own
 
2yvnjap.jpg


Good?

I had to put the bigger one on top, because stock has a groove that it sat in perfectly and didn't fit other ways around, stud wasn't long enough.

Had to run to Home Depot and get a **** drill bit, my metal bits weren't cutting it. Seeing as my firewall is THREE pieces of metal deep?

 
Nope, about 3/4.

Stock stud was just long enough for that single stock connection.. plus the stock connection sits lower in a rivit...

It's as if Lincoln doesn't want me to upgrade. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

It's still solid though, not lose at all. A new alternator I'm sure will be in sight at somepoint, seeing as I've gone from 240rms system to 2,400 in under 3 months.. I'm really enjoying this whole gig.

Should be fine for now, right? I'll check it in a few days after some drive time, ect ect

 
Doesn't that make the bottom wire loose due to the large terminal on top of the plastic? I just notched mine with a dremel and made it fit down in there with the factory one. That looks very unsafe.

 
or the crimp job, or what is in between the terminal and the factory terminal, or is the brass terminal just tightened down onto the plastic guard..or..just kinda hard to tell in the pic.
he said the factory one sits in a grove and the stud is bartely long enough for the factory lug so it will eb a tight fit no matter what .

 
he said the factory one sits in a grove and the stud is bartely long enough for the factory lug so it will eb a tight fit no matter what .
Not if the factory one has a plastic lip above it, and the new wire sits on said plastic lip. That will make the bottom (factory) wire loose.

 
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